Got all the bits and pieces on order for an M577 - except for the question of tracks.
Herman mentioned a brand of metal tracks and Im wondering what opinions are out there. I imagine they’re complicated things to assemble, but with a plus for accuracy?
What are other hobbier-ist’s opinions on metal tracks?
Any comments would be helpful.
I personally prefer plastic indi-link tracks. They are easy to work with, glue with liquid model glue, take paint well, etc… A hell of a lot better priced to me as well.
M113/M577 use T-130E1 tracks.
I personally prefer metal. I was intimidated by them at first, but they clean up easier than plastic tracks, are really easy to assemble (takes me about 1 day per track length versus about 2-3 with plastic), and are easier to paint since you can lay them out flat
I prefer metal like @Mead93 .
Some metal tracks go together faster than others.
The picture shows some Friul links for a T34-85.
I used dressmaking pins and made both complete runs in under an hour.
Some are more involved like these E-100 tracks from R-Model.
Four parts + pin for a “pair” 100 links AKA 50 “pairs” per side.
I have not tried many plastic tracks having been put off by either the complexity/parts count or the amount of clean up.
The only plastic tracks I have liked so far has been the ones supplied with AH Centurion which just clicked together and were loose in one bag.
I like them,but I don’t like the price.I have used them on some German and Russian subjects,the sag looks great.Assembly has never been a problem.I scrub them with acetone,I have used burnishing fluid,but that just adds more cost,so I just paint and weather them like plastic also.
Dragon Magic Tracks are also easy to use, and I have assembled kit plastic workable indies from Meng, the T-90 and the Merkava,a little tedious but doable.
Like Gino, I find metal tracks cost ineffective a lot of the time, although I use both metal and plastic depending on the kit. E.G. I will take Bronco Sherman tracks over Fruil any day - Live tracks do not sag, so the point of weighty metal links is lost, plus correct fit around sprockets and idler cannot be depicted with in all in one track pad and end connector Fruils.
I still even use the kit rubber bands when the top run is hidden, as long as the detail is good. I cannot justify the price of AM tracks where just the front, back and top of the bottom run are visible. For the cost of indy tracks on these models, I can put that toward a different kit.
For me, the time taken to put indies together is no different to the time taken on the rest of the kit. But each to their own, we all have preferences and I respect that.
I appreciate all the views and opinion on this topic. Weighing up all the opinion I’m going with the AFV Club tracks that Gino suggested.
This build won’t happen for awhile, but I’ve got enough to keep me busy at the moment (including my 91 year old Mother moving into “our sanctuary”.
Metal tracks all the way. I use Fruil. Although they’re harder to get nowadays in the UK (you have to buy direct from the manufacturer) its well worth it. They go together quickly and easily, are very realistic and add a nice bit of weight to the finished kit.
I wouldn’t use plastic tracks ever again. Tedious, fiddly and always the possibility to glue links together!