Michael,
The seats came out looking as close to model perfect as a seat can look.
joel
Glad I found this thread, this is simply amazing, the exquisite detail is everywhere.
Engine, seats, firewall… tremendous skills , amazing work !
@Nito74 Thanks for those kind comments, very much appreciated!
cheers
Michael
Hi Tim,
I did mate the two cross members before fitting to the chassis. What I did first was tape them together and played with how it went on. It requires a bit jiggling around (classic model technique) before it slots in place. It is important to get that fit right and locked in because it carries a lot of weight with the front suspension.
The other reason of pairing the cross members first is they themselves aren’t a perfect fit and require some filling of gaps before attaching to the chassis. Easy to fill and sand as single piece before attaching that. The other point that you must not forget is to drill out the mounting points for the A frame suspension arms on Part M28. It will be very difficult to do the rear side once that crossmember is in place. I just know that. 
cheers
Michael
cheers
Michael
1 Like
You are right that crossmember ( and front suspension ) carries alot of weight, amazing how heavy the engine is !
Any updates on your model Cosimodo ?
No,I am on holiday in Europe until Christmas. Won’t be back in the garage until early next year.
2 Likes
Well having got back this week, I drifted back into the workshop to have a look at the state of things. It took a couple of visits to build up the interest but I got going and completed the priming work I started about 6 weeks ago.
The way I go about the large scale models is multiple iterations of paint, fill and sand. What we have here is the completion of the fourth iteration where I finally have metal parts especially good enough for a first attempt at colour but not quite just yet. Given the size I always use Tamiya fine primer. It covers well and dries quickly. One last wet sand and some shaping as per below.
The body is complete as are the missing doors. The hood/bonnet/hatch are in good shape but the rear still needs some work.
At viewing distance all looks fine
front’s OK
at the rear we are still awry
The problems with the rear were many. The boot was too big to fit, the metal was too thick to match the body shell, it was distorted, the casting was pretty rough and the fuel filler hole was almost filled in with metal flash. Smoothing the metal was the easiest with several layers of MrHobby 500 sanded, painted etc. I shape the filler hole with a sharp knife and file. I had to thin the edges alot to get the boot to match the thickness of the resin and to sit flat on the lip as well as many metal shavings on both sides to allow it to fit in the gap. The distortion has been most trying and we still not quite there yet much improved. The boot is very solid and with the headrest hump trying to reshape it sit flat in all directions is one of perserverance and patience. I’ll get there but I am not it will be exactly right.
cheers
Michael
4 Likes
Glad to see you back Michael. Bodywork looks like you have put a lot of effort into it.
FYI Model Factory Hiro is planning on re release of a number of 1/9 bikes . I preordered the Brough SS 100 . It is supposed to be available end of Jan 2024. I hope the sidecar will be available again.
Cheers- Richard
Thanks Tim. You’re making good progress. It interesting to see the slightly different body style for the 315. Your pragmatism for the hinges is probably the right approach, especially since it is a roadster and you can the interior without the need for opening doors. The hood has no hinges so the only debate is the trunk. I will start with operating hinges but they may quickly go.
cheers
Michael
Hi Richard, yes, I saw that re-release announcement when I got back and my first thought was the Anzani looked a cool machine but it was already sold out, which is probably a good thing. You’re starting to build a MFH bike stash!
cheers
Michael
I don’t believe any are sold out - I think they just put that up because they are not ready yet . When I pre ordered I was told they will invoice me near end of January. If you want the Anzani I would inquire.
Moving along here with a couple of saddle tanks.
This what they will look like installed. The larger one in the left front.
The smaller in the passenger door.
I also went back and installed the dash since I needed to blend it in with the body.
Have begun the long process of building the Borrani wire wheels, 5 of them.
Starting with the hubs, this is the first completed. You can see on the left what we start with and the finished product after drilling 72 holes and giving it a polish. The rims are going to be painted later.
cheers
Michael
7 Likes
Hi Michael,
The finishes on those metal parts is remarkable - just beauty!
Cheers
Nick
3 Likes
Putting the bend in the spokes will cause difficulties if the holes in the hub are drilled using the rim as a guide , therefore the hole is axially aligned with a straight spoke . It looks like the holes in the hub should be drilled perpendicular to the hub if the spokes are going to be bent .
If absolute authenticity is what is being sought there is another more difficult obstacle - the spokes in the photo of the real wheel are butted - i.e. they are of a greater diameter ( heavier gauge) at the hub than they are at the rim . The pronounced step is easily seen in the photos.
Agreed that the wheels will look better in warm silver paint .
Cheers- Richard
1 Like
Best way to answer on the wheels is show you my first attempt using the spare as a practice. Up close and personal
and if you see on the model
The spokes are fiddly enough in 1/12 scale without trying to achieve a bend into the hub so I have just gone for the visual affect. There are 72 spokes per wheel, so 360 wires - so no bending. (I am no perfectionist 
)The first wheel took about 4 hours, and I just complete the second in about 3 hrs but chipped the paint so remedial work to happen there. I will complete the final three and then see how they look mounted.
Having made the spare I have also built the cradle for it which is the final piece of the chassis. Hasn’t been to the finishing paint shop yet.
Thanks for looking in guys and the details on the wire wheel. The colour on the spare wheel is silver green (50:50 silver/nato green) which is also a front wheel. The rears will be silver blue.
cheers
Michael
8 Likes
Wheels look great Michael ! Getting the MFH itch just watching your progress.
Happy New Year- Richard
As @RDT1953 said, the wheels look great, really neat work Michael!
I really wish I had the funds for the MFH Corvette, they even chose a C1 to really stick the knife in 
1/12scale Fulldetail Kit : C1 [1960] (modelfactoryhiro.com)
Cheers, D
Thanks Damian.
To realise your dream, you need to trade up sell some of that stash, I am sure that there are 10 or 20 you could let go at a stretch 
cheers
Michael
1 Like
I wish you could get this kit as much as you do - I hope you find a way - I can tell you unequivocally that it will be one the best modeling experiences you may have and I’ll wager it is one of your all time favorite cars . I don’t know the reason - I hope it is true across the board - but every kit I have ordered directly from MFH has had an additional discount applied. I know they are not inexpensive but the hours of enjoyment per dollar puts them closer to mainstream kits . As Michael noted perhaps you can liquidate some of the stash .
Cheers mate - Richard
1 Like