New "Boxcar Red" from Tamiya ~ from swords into plow shares

New (well relatively new) “Boxcar Red” from Tamiya: ~ from swords into plow shares.

I say “swords into plow shares” ** because apparently the Military & Armor guys have been keeping this a secret for sometime now, from those of us over here on the Railroad side of things!

Just about the perfect shade of Boxcar Red, Caboose Red and Brick Red.
. . . . and in a flat primer surface finish to boot!

Oh, and it also works on tanks!

** So military hardware (this time paint) has again been hammered into a useful purpose for our peacetime railroad models.

Tamiya Oxide Red Primer:

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There are many, many shades of boxcar red . . . .

. . . . but this is certainly one of them!

Custom painted and lettered Bachman On30 boxcars:
(Don’t bother to mask anything ~ just sand down any original lettering and spray paint the whole darn car!)


. . . . .

(OK ~ maybe wrap a little tape around the couplers to block the spray.)

BELOW: One of the finished and weathered boxcars. ~ I use oil pastel chalks for my final weathering.

Water transfers come from San Juan Decals

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And the same goes for Caboose Red!

The Tamiya primer product was a PERFECT match for the Bachmann base red color,
I was therefore able to touch out * the “Durango & Silverton” lettering across the top while saving the “Caboose, Car Number and Reporting Marks” of the original D&S cab.

*Spray a little puddle of the color on a piece of cardboard and use a small brush to apply.


BELOW: The original D&S Caboose fresh out of the box from the Bachmann Factory:

~ Am a bit sad that this Caboose comes to us unlighted! ~

Water transfers come from San Juan Decals

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How 'bout a nice Brick Red? ~ the Wheeler Pharmacy:

This is a custom structure in O Scale, built out of assorted wall panels from “Design Preservation Models”, plus various other details salvaged from the local hobbyshop’s “junk bin”.
(Chimney, Skylight and both rear Roof Awnings are all “found parts”.)

Here painted with the Red Oxide and a Matte Hunter Green and then weathered:

And shown below; a rear view before final weathering:
(I show this photo so you can assess JUST the red brick color for yourself WITHOUT the addition of all that weathering.)

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p.s. ~ I am posting my revised artwork for the big Coke sign (at full resolution.)
~
Should anyone else wish to download this artwork to print out at home for use on one of your own brick structures, you have my blessings.
I simply printed it on the cheapest and thinnest typing paper I could find. Then cut it out and applied it to the brick surface using generous amounts of Future Floor Wax both on the brick surface and on the paper sign itself. (I soaked it!) Then I used both a medium large brush and my fingers to push the sign paper into the pattern of the brick.
Finial finish was to spray the entire building with Matte Clear (Tamiya TS-80 rattle can) to kill the shine of the floor wax.

sCoca-Cola Use this artwork as you see fit with my blessings.j

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Oh, and this Red Oxide also just happens to work GREAT on model tanks as well!

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p.s. I do own an air brush and compressor but hardly ever (as in never) use it!

Hey Muitlbank just what kind of engines do you like to run in YOUR tanks?

I enjoyed building the Sherman Firefly because, for one thing, it has the longer chassis to accommodate that engine!

Did you really to make 7 separate posts to say that?

OK Annette (A&D) you have now hit on a pet peeve of mine with this site. The software AND Jim Starkweather seem to both be pushing us to consolidate our messages into fewer and fewer separate posts. (I don’t know why, perhaps it somehow conserves space on the KitMaker servers but now that they are hosting all our photographs I cannot see what possible difference file size or number of files could make???)
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To answer your question: When writing I tend to think in terms of “paragraphs” or; “informational packets” if you will.

So . . .

  • Post/Packet #1 - Announces and Shows the topic - the paint.
  • Post/Packet #2 - is Example One - the Boxcars.
  • Post/Packet #3 - is Example Two - the Caboose.
  • Post/Packet #4 - is Example Three - the Brick Building + plus the FREE Coke Artwork.
  • Post/Packet #5 - is the mildly comical reference back to the opening statement - that being; the paint also happens to be good for military vehicles.

So that produces, to my eye only 5 very concisely formatted posts (paragraphs) that tells the story completely, in its’ entirety, with illustrated examples and a free gift for the reader/modeler. So to my mind this thread is near perfectly organized and put forth.

All the posts that follow after that are the viewer responses and other friendly banter.

165thspc

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Hey ALL!

Please consider taking a quick (10 second) Armorama survey over at:

I also used the Red Oxide spray paint to represent painted wood on the many staircases and cat-walks of this HO Coaling Tower (heavily weathered.)

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…many shades of boxcar red…

Got that right! Tru-Color paints many years ago started reproducing prototype “boxcar Reds” for historical societies. I think they have upwards of one hundred different boxcar reds in their catalog right now, for specific railroads and even specific eras for different railroads.

By using my oil pastel chalks and these new shaders over the base color I can pretty much shift any shade around to suit my desires.

Example: This very faded Russian Green started out as just a standard US Olive Drab. (Model Master #1911) Multiple applications of oil pastel chalk turned it into what you see here.

MAZ-537

The roof on this example was again sprayed with the Tamiya Red Oxide and then gone over with a brushed on black wash * giving a nice terra-cotta tile look to this one.

*Again using the “Nuln Oil” shader from Citadel on that roof.



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This Red Oxide Primer works great as a base coat for plastic “wood” structure models.
I start with the Red Oxide then add random “dusted” over-sprays of Dark Yellow and Matte Black before even getting to the Washes, Shaders and Pigment weathering.

More Red Oxide in use here:
Working on a somewhat massive Center Bridge Pier and end Abutments.