The camouflage was painted in acrylics, mostly Vallejo, while the rest of the uniform details were done in artist oils. I also used artist oils for the shading over the camouflage parts. I painted the camouflage when I did the acrylic undercoats before the oils.
No real secrets… Using the acrylics properly thinned is essential. Two to three thin coats gives much better results than trying to go at it with single coats. Outline the pattern, cutting in clean and sharp edges and corners, then fill in the centers. This makes it easier to follow reference photos of the pattern.
I made a very conscious effort to follow the reference photos and make pattern breaks where the sewn seams were. My references showed that a lot of the smaller parts of the uniforms were made from left-over bits of cloth and sewn on with the patterns at right angles to the main uniform pattern. I tried to replicate that.
The raindrops are a PITA and require, again, properly thinned paint and constant cleaning of the brush to keep the tips of the bristles from clumping. Painting them was just tedious and time consuming. Rushing or trying to push will just lead to mistakes. Do a few, reload the the brush, do a few more, and then probably give the brush a swish in water and a wipe, then repeat…
Andy Evans did several SBS figures on Armorama and Historicus Forma with LW field division and paratroops as the subjects, and I slavishly copied his Vallejo color mixes and general technique (modified for the WH splinter pattern vice the LW pattern). These are really worth the time and effort to look up and read. I modified his general technique to use artist oils for the shading over the camouflage whereas Andy used acrylics. That’s the only really significant difference in method. (Although Andy’s a much, much better painter than I am…)
I prefer to use 10x0 sable liners to paint acrylics rather than rounds or brights. The long bristles of the liner brush holds more paint and the tip size is the same.
Cheers!