Mini-Art Campaign 2021

Looking nice! Did the antenna come with the kit or did you create it?

like these lighter tanks. Miniart has several versions of the T-60, but I do not yet want to go for an interior kit. So this one is on my wish list. Hobbyboss also announced a T-60 for this year so I am also waiting for their kit as it is without interior afaik.

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That’s come together really well Ryan. Looks very nice. Decided on the tracks yet ?

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Thanks, it is a kit part #75. It’s on a the new turret sprue.

That is good news about HB, might be easier to build with less frail parts and plastic.

Thanks. No, still waiting till after I cut them out and making one side. I have already lost two tracks, so thrown track is the easiest way to hide that problem.

hey, does anyone have any tips on the SS “Dot” camouflage? I try, and try, but i am still horrible.
Cheers!
L

Mike post some tips in here for painting camo. It’s a pain and practice, practice, practice.

HTH

There are two YouTube videos - one by Shane Smyth and another by CW modeling - that look good but I don’t think my hands are steady enough to do what they do…

Maybe it would be a useful learning on the softness of Mini-art kits? I have just about finished an SU-85 and I didn’t really notice the plastic being a lot softer. As I read people talk about it I may remember it seeming a little soft, but not noticeably so. Would be interesting to know if it is on older kits (as in manufactured a long time ago) or newer kits or something else?

thanks, guys!
Cheers!
L

I recall a discussion a few years ago about plastic issues, as I recall they changed the formula or had a bad batch for a number of kits.

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@logandavis74 Hi Logan. the dio is looking good. You asked for feedbacks, so I hope this helps.

Shell craters are formed due to the pressure wave of the explosives. Depending on the type of shell (Heavy artillery down to mortar round, the effect can be dramatic or not so. Based on the size of your crater you would be looking at a light artillery round, so maybe it needs to be a little deeper. The explosive wave has a tendency to push soil down and sideways where the natural resistance of the ground scoops out soil and pushes it outward. This creates a ring of soil and matter as material is pushed out. Hence the crater is deeper and the soil dislodged forms a high ring outside the intense blast area. Also due to the forces applied, cobbles are also lifted and removed as the dislodged soil is pushed upward below the cobbles. So on the outside ‘ring’ of your crater the cobbles should not be flat and even, they should be pushed up at angles where the main blast was focussed (opposite from where the shell was fired and some could be hanging downward where the soil beneath them was removed.

Then, those closest to the epicentre are blasted free and the pressure wave will make them rise and fall outside the main blast zone, so you should have more rubble, broken cobbles and soil deposits scattered around the outside of the crater, less and less as you move away from the crater.

You might also consider making the dislodged cobbles smaller. The base has brick size cobbles rather than the larger slab ype you have added.

The following may give you an idea.
http://michaelhiske.de/Allierte/USA/TManual/E9-1901/Part01/Sec03a.htm

And Pics are always a good reference point

image

image

Like most things, you won’t get it perfect the first (dozen or so…) time… so play around with your layout until you are happy with the outcome then stick with that. I am confident you can pull this off.

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Yes, they had bought a supply of plastic that turned out to be badly mixed by the manufacturer and popped out a lot of kits before people started noticing there was an issue.

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If you are only a couple short, an option is to cut out the centre strut section, drill a hole into each link section and along the face of the track segment up to the outer ‘V’ section. Then insert a brass rod or piece of steel pin between the track segments. Use the repaired link as part of the bottom run under the road wheel and that way the rod that passes over the track face is facing down and not seen and the road wheel hides hides the issues on the inner face. I have success doing this in the past.

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That is great idea Peter and one that might used on this build. I am not sure on the number of links needed or the final display of thrown track. I keep thinking about the denotation of a anti personal mine or track pin failure for the thrown track. I have some Miniart engineers that can be shown mine hunting. I need to research more on the T-60/70 family for what thrown track looks like for this vehicle.

@petbat- thanks for the info! I’ll be sure to put it into action in my next dio.
Cheers!
L

Engine done, minus some weathering to make it look dirty and used. Added some wiring for fuel lines.

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Sweeeeet! :+1: :+1:

Wow, that looks really great!

I’m game, i have an Austin Armored car and two figures that will make for a nice Polish armored car diorama.

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Looks great!