Pinwash, weathering, sealing and stuff

So, as you can see I am getting close to finish my first model. Do not pay attention to the weird colors, the lighting is probably bad, the camera is worse and I have no clue about photography (along with scale modeling, most likely). Also, the tracks are only “half mudded” because I didn’t touched the parts that will end up hidden (because I am cheapskate)

It’s grey Tamyia Fine primed and sprayed with italeri acrylics with Italeri thinner.

Now, here’s what I would like to do:

  1. Apply some of the same mud on the hull, in order to create a less jarring transition. Nothing dramatic, just a little to add “continuity”.

  2. Apply Vallejo gloss varnish

  3. Apply some weathering in the form of pin-washing the hull using Vallejo model wash

  4. Apply decals

  5. Apply Vallejo matt varnish to seal the deal

Now, assuming that the above check-list is good for having a good model I was wondering:

  • About the mud, where should I apply it on the hull? Track guards for sure, lower plate, and…? Keep in mind that I don’t want to go over the top like on the tracks, I just want a smooth transition.

  • Is the Vallejo airbrush thinner (or brush thinner) good for thinning the varnishes? Which is the correct ratio?

  • The mud on the tracks is Vallejo game-effect, does it need a varnish spray? Maybe just the matt and avoid the gloss?

  • Is there anything wrong or anything I should know before attempting this? I am a 100% newbie with this stuff.

Thank you

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That sounds like quite a good plan. I’ve never modelled this vehicle before and its not one I know much about thus I can’t categorically say where you need to apply the mud on the hull but it is an AFV and you have the right idea about where to apply it- lower hull, front and rear plates get it worst- if its really bad weather it will get up above that toward the upper levels and anywhere the crew have been dragging it with their boots. If its dust that will work its way up the sides and main structure too.

Vallejo varnishes usually need thinned and you can use their thinner but distilled water is easier- consistency needs to be like skimmed milk.

If the mud is game-effect I assume it means it has dried glossy? If so then yes you need to put some matt varnish on it if it is dry mud you wish to show.

Hopefully this info helps you out a bit.

Yes, it’s dry mud, so I suppose I can skip the gloss over them, considering that I am done with them.

By the way, forgot to ask this:

What do I need to buy to simulate barrel blackening and exhaust grime?

I would move step 3 to the end. The reason being while it won’t change a whole lot you want the decal to have similar weathering otherwise the contrast can be pretty stark.

I was thinkng to leave the decal and the upper hull immacualte with the exception of some pin-washing.

Hi and welcome to armorama!
First and as you have not glued to top hull yet, I would try to adjust the track to let it sag more realistically…

Then, I would reorder the process as follows:

  1. Apply Vallejo gloss varnish
  2. Apply decals
  3. Apply some weathering in the form of pin-washing the hull using Vallejo model wash
    3.5 Remember to clean the excess of wash before it dries
  4. Apply Vallejo matt varnish to seal the deal
  5. Apply some of the same mud on the hull, in order to create a less jarring transition. Nothing dramatic, just a little to add “continuity”.
  • About the mud, where should I apply it on the hull? Track guards for sure, lower plate, and…? Keep in mind that I don’t want to go over the top like on the tracks, I just want a smooth transition.

Better just use paint/pigments/washes on the upper hull, and not mud. Later on you could add some if you still miss it, on corners and less accessible places.

  • Is the Vallejo airbrush thinner (or brush thinner) good for thinning the varnishes? Which is the correct ratio?

Providing they are from the same range, yes. I use Vallejo Premium varnish, directly from the jar -too lazy to thin it, although most people say it should be.

  • The mud on the tracks is Vallejo game-effect, does it need a varnish spray? Maybe just the matt and avoid the gloss?

Fresh mud, satin or gloss. Dried mud, matt. Choose what you like most.

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There should not be barrel blackening. For the exhaust, either airbrush thinned black carefully or use pigments.

Your model, build as you like. As with any advice you will find what works for you and your taste/desired outcome. Your style will probably change along the way. If your not ready for something try it on the next model. Just remember to have fun.

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Thanks guys, so many replies in so little time, I knew this was the best place to ask questions, whenever I looked for info or good models, Armorama always popped up and never disappointed.

Varanusk, about the mud, the issue is that this Vallejo stuff I used had a very peculiar and unpredictable color…out of the barrel it was greenish, now settled into a generic realistic dried dirt color that I really cannot replicate.
I was thinking of trying to drawn a glob if it in thinner to turn it into something approaching paint, but it’ll require some experimentation.

About the wash, I think I can get the Vallejo Model Wash: should I get it “Dark Brown” or “dark grey”?
Or are there better colors for this kind of model?

About the gun grime, I am curious, why barrels shouldn’t be blackened?

It’s an over played technique and not really representative of reality but again your model, your outcome.

https://archive.armorama.com/forums/282815/

As for thinning Vallejo mud, I do not think it is a good idea… but try yourself, better on a hidden area, it may work!

Interesting read, the ISU-152 has this weird muzzle with several openings, I wonder if I should just leave it be or blackening it a little.

Another question, I have the AA machinegun painted in Italeri Gunmetal which ended up a little too “shiny” and steel-like, how can I make it more realistic? Maybe applying a black pin-wash?

Also, about the pin-wash for the hull, black or dark brown?

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Personally, I like to paint them satin black and some dry brush of grey. If you google DShK images, they were quite dark -so most of the MG’s

As for the pin-wash, you could go dark brown around rivets, edges, etc and black on deeper grooves like around hatches

From the 20th century on, gun rounds use smokeless powder, which leaves no black residue. At worst, after hundreds of rounds, there is a thin light grey residue that is visible from about 6 inches away.

Ok, less stuff to paint then, I am fine with that!

Varanusk, good idea, I just hope that my only bricks&mortar retailer has either of those because they cost an arm on amazon.
How can I make that DShK darker? Maybe a black dry-brush?

If you can’t/don’t want to repaint it, better a black or dark grey wash than drybrush.

Note: the site software says I have replied too much and you should get opinion from others :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes: :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes::

You’ve replied 3 times to @Nightgaunt in this particular topic!

A great discussion includes many voices and perspectives. Can you get anybody else involved?

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Silly software.

I didn’t want to butt in because you were doing such a good job helping him along! :beer:

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@Nightgaunt, welcome to the forum! I like your JSU, it’s looking good!

BTW - I think the discolored black muzzle and barrel gained popular due to artistic license by Francois Verlinden back in the 1980’s.

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The one thing I try to do when doing any weathering is to picture the environment, remember continuity is key to the finish and self restraint.
Above all else just have fun and enjoy the process

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