I was trying to prime with a new can of Vallejo primer (I have never used Vallejo’s rattle cans before), but when I tried to use it, the paint (in addition to spraying a bit from the nozzle) sprayed from around the nozzle head, covering the nozzle head and the tip of my pointer finger, as well as splattering an area in front of the can. Upon a longer press/spray, paint also seems to run down the front of the can. The attached photos show the cleaned up can, nozzle head, and the top of the can with the nozzle removed.
Has anyone experienced something similar? What could be the cause?
I thought i had finally found a can of opaque primer in Italy, but for now, it looks like I haven’t. 
I think it doesn’t have enough CO2 inside of it. I say this because the only times I’ve experienced this is when the spray paint can is almost empty and then the paint can’t force itself out of the can and splatters and sputters around the nozzle. Even if it’s a new can of primer, perhaps Vallejo didn’t add enough CO2 inside of it to function properly, and that’s what is surprising to me. CO2 is needed to force the paint out of the can.
The paint mix can also be incorrect because modelers state that they have the hardest time airbrushing using Vallejo AIR bottles because the paint dries in midair and splatters and spurts on the model or around the airbrush nozzle. The trick is using Vallejo Retarder and Vallejo Flow Improver. Perhaps Vallejo never added those solutions into their Vallejo primer spray cans.
I suggest using Tamiya Fine Primer in a spray can, or Mr. Gunze Surfacer 1500.
I never used Vallejo spray cans, but it’s a good mental note. Thanks.
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I’ll look into the options you mentioned.
I’m not sure if it’s a lack of CO2, since it sprays with force, not sputtering, as you described.
I’ve never had that happen with a new can, but with older ones I’ve simply swapped out nozzles. Perhaps it was defective.
Could be. I tried both included nozzles, but the same thing happened.I have clear primer, but I would like to have the color to even out the surface.
Did it prime the model? I’m under the impression that it didn’t…
I tested it out on cardboard before priming the model. In this case, I was going to prime figures and stowage. I was able to prime a few bits of spare track, but it was still having the issues described above. Paint does come out of the nozzle, but other paint comes out from what I assume to be around/under the nozzle head.
I once worked in the lab of a spray paint manufacturer. The valve (the part the spray head goes into) is possibly defective, as may be the spray head, or the spray head may be partially clogged. The clog can happen if the spray head is slightly depressed at some time after filling, allowing a small amount of paint to enter the head and dry there. It is also possible that the proportion of components in the can (paint, reducing solvent, and propellant) is incorrect. Or all of the above. Essentially, you bought a defective can. Take it to where you bought it and ask if they will replace it.
If not: Try cleaning the spray head by soaking it in an appropriate solvent, flushing it if possible. Inspect the stem for blockage and remove it if you can without damaging the head. That’s about all you can do, as the valve is not accessible, and it’s dangerous to try.
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I’m guessing that it’s the paint mix then, but I don’t know.
I do know that I had the darnest time airbrushing Vallejo AIR because it clogs around the airbrush nozzle because Vallejo never said to buy Flow Improver or Retarder. It’s a trick with airbrushing Vallejo, and also a sales gimmick perhaps. With Vallejo Flow Improver and Retarder, Vallejo AIR airbrushes extremely well (most of the time). The problem as modelers said on YouTube with Vallejo AIR is that it dries in midair. The same with Tamiya bottle paint, also dries in midair and you get that pebbling “sandpaper” texture airbrush paint job. For Tamiya bottle paints, one needs Tamiya Flat Base (or Tamiya Retarder) to get it to airbrush smoothly and spray smoothly on model kits. Tamiya never said that either.
I suggest using another brand of primer. Amazon.com sells Tamiya and Mr. Surfacer primer.
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Sounds good. I’ll see if I can do anything. I might just get one of the previously mentioned alternatives. For now, I was already planning on taking the figures and tracks back to the states for painting, where I have a can of primer which works (and if it doesn’t solid color primer exists in the USA).
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tip may be clogged you can try soaking the tip in some paint thinner to loosen up the booger I ordered a whole bunch of diriment tips from amazon just in case. Also, when you are done give it the old upside-down spray to clear the tip that des help. If it’s a lack of accelerant then disregard I don’t know how to fix that. You could try removing the tip and blowing on it like a ballon. 
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I was able to find the Tamiya Fine Primer in and Italian online model shop. (I might add some flesh tones into the cart while I’m at it…)
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Re: OP, Vallejo may have supplied the wrong size nozzle(s) with this can of paint or the can opening is defectively too large. If the stem of the nozzle is too narrow then this leakage will happen.
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Cool!
All the Tamiya Fine Primer spray cans that I’ve purchased sprayed excellently.
I believe you made the proper choice in buying a spray can of primer from another brand and forgoing the Vallejo spray can.
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I will double on that.
I only use rattle cans on my plastic models (don’t have an airbrush), and only Tamiya TS, AS and the Fine Primers. They are expensive, but I think they are worth it. I am very happy with them, including the clear matt TS-80.
Lately I don’t use primer at all if I don’t have to repair parts or fill gaps. The lacquer spray paint, apart from metallics, adheres fine to styrene models that will stand on a shelf. The fewer the number of coats, the more fine detail is shown - panel lines, rivets etc.
For models with frequent handling I would use the primer.
I have bought the Vallejo big cans in the past and still have some because they come cheaper, but don’t like them. I think they are too rich and inconsistent.
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