I would like to make the M969 1/35 fuel tanker and truck. But i can only find the Resin one by Real Model.
I have never attempted Resin models. My question is are resin kits more difficult, need different equipment, accessories?
I am not an accomplished resin modeller, but I’ve built a few. As long as you accept them for what they are - often with sparse instructions - and approach the project with care you might come through it just fine!
Remember that the material is often far more fragile than plastic, and even removing them from their casting runners will require some care. Because the resin is often brittle, you may even receive some parts broken. But this is not a show stopper: just take your time, remove all parts very carefully, clean them up, and make sure you lay them out and can identify all the parts, sometimes despite the instructions. Repair any broken parts.
Adhesives will be generally cyanoacrylates – Superglues – and these can be unforgiving; that said, slower setting epoxies can help. In all likelihood, the build will take more time.
Once built, or even before you start (I normally tackle AFVs so wait until I’ve built it) you will probably need to wash the model to clear any release agents which will compromise any paint. Warm, soapy water and a soft toothbrush will help here.
To sum up, take your time; when utilising the instructions, apply a little lateral thinking if necessary and check out the sequence as you might find a better way of tackling it all. I cannot emphasise enough, patience is your byword here.
I’m sure others more experienced than I will chip in soon.
Good luck.
I think for the price, there are too many ifs an buts. Its a shame there aren’t too many military 1/35 Truck an Tankers.
For the price, you often get a much better product with rreson than you would with an injection molded kit. For starters, there is no need for drafting on a resin kit. Injection molded kits rely heavily on drafting so that the parts can be ejected from the molds. What should be a ninety degree corner on a box is often a few degrees less. No such issues with resin. Drafting can really be noticeable in extreme cases. I use this from a recent post of mine as an example:
That box like structure on the right side of that kit part is way off. The angles obtuse angles should be right angles.
Often you’ll have to fix those parts to make them look correct, or settle for something that just doesn’t look right. I do not like to settle.
Resin also can capture detail that just can’t be had in most injection molded kits, and if it can, the prices rise significantly.
Resin kits also come with resin wheels already. And in some cases stowage, which looks far better than injection stowage. A lot of folks seem driven to replace kit wheels and tires with resin ones. There goes your savings right there. The resin kit already had the ones you wanted to begin with.