I think that particular wash mix needs more oil paint added to make it less transparent. Probably 2 to 3 times as much oil paint to use as a pen wash for dark shadowing.
FWIW - Have seen thousands of top notch armor models over the years and as for realistic, I’ve almost never seen a picture of an armor model that looks realistic. Not saying that to make anyone mad or start an argument - it’s just the truth of my personal observations. Others will feel differently and I acknowledge that.
Likewise, I don’t think I’ve ever seen an armor model look realistic in real life because we’re basically looking down on top of the hull and turret instead of facing the hull at eye level and looking up at the turret. Angle of the photos is nearly always wrong and immediately gives it away. Likewise the viewing angle for the typical armor model is completely wrong.
So one might as well go for what one considers the most visually appealing finish as even “realistic models” don’t look realistic under typical view circumstances.
Modelers should feel free to use the techniques they enjoy and like for end result regardless of its artistic or semi-realistic.
I’ll give that a try! Thanks for the help. I’m defintlely not going for deep shadow and bright highlights as I think that looks cartoonish, but I would like to start learning how to do pin washes and such.
Not going to over weather this one, probably a pin wash, some highlights dry brushed, and maybe some oil dot streaking
On the same subject I’ve been using Mig Ammo wash. About every minute I have to replace the cap and shake it up again. I don’t have the same issue with home made wash. Is it me or Mig Ammos wash’s?
It’s odd. Some people swear by those products, but by and large I feel like most of the things I can recall reading about these products are negative in some way. I personally don’t use any of them.
Most of them I can’t believe people pay good money for - diluted paint, really diluted paint, pastels, special thinners. Any of which are available for a 50th of the price or that you can make yourself.
Several months ago someone was trying asking about trying to sell a bunch of Model Railroader magazines. One of the experts, from whom I’ve never seen a single build photo, chimed in that they were pretty much worthless. And yet all of the techniques I’ve been using for almost fifty years come from those very magazines, which were published in the 70’s. Those and whatever I could glean from those Shep Paine inserts.
But I digress. In answer to your question I’d say it’s the Mig washes.
Here is the mixture I have for my wash after it’s sat for a few hours and separated. You can see the proportion of paint to thinner pretty well here. Maybe 20% paint at best? How much should I be shooting for?
I start with roughly the same ratios as SSGToms mentioned and tweak by adding more paint or more thinner to get the opacity or transparency desired. I let the desired opacity or desired transparency determine the final mix.
I often fiddle with the wash mix or pin-wash mix a little especially if the base colors have a lighter color like Dunkelgelb involved. The wash for green, olive drab & gray base coats usually easier to dial in. The paper towel gets stained with test spots and when happy with mix I test on underside of model. Revise mix if desired etc.
@18bravo , what you said strikes me as 100% on the mark and true about the washy & piggy products. Well said.
Probably giving up on a wash on this one. Not having much luck. I think the base coat might be a tad too dark to take a pin wash well. Probably gonna attach details and detail paint and call this one done.
Maybe when my weathering skills improve I’ll return to this one. Getting discouraged and thinking it’s time to move on.
This is generally where my builds fall apart, I can’t seem to get the same effects other people do even though I am following their videos and discussion fairly closely
I too consider myself an old school modeler when it comes to finishing and weathering. I used oil washes up until very recently; however on my M1 Panther II and a Standard B Liberty truck I tried out AKs dark brown enamel wash and thought it worked very well. I definitely had to fiddle a bit to get the consistency I wanted but I was very happy with it. You definitely have to keep shaking it to get the pigments more heavily mixed in. The dust effects and dirt deposits I didn’t feel I had as much success with. Don’t remember what I paid for them but I will continue to use them.
I also have Vallejo’s black and oiled earth washes but have not tried them yet. I also used Tamiya panel line brown accent color to add a little rust to the outer parts of my M1 and thought it came good. Same as the AK product thought: I had to keep shaking the bottle to get more pigments mixed in. I have not gotten rid of any of my oil products though and won’t. Just my 2 cents……
