Sewing pins for metal Tracks

Hey guys

I have a Question for those that have assembled Metal tracks. I ordered some and they came with a length of wire. I’m wondering if there is a way to use sewing pins to speed things up? Any thoughts on this? The pins seem like a less flimsy option. Thanks for any advice

Best regards

Yes,I have used them on at least one set,you still need to find the right diameter to fit,and you still may need to trim to length,the ones with a little cap on the end look good.Hobby Lobby or Michaels are a good source.

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Sewing pins are probably too long. Better go with small nails like these.



Great idea, I’m sure if I look around I can find the right thickness, and length and with a small head. At this point I wouldn’t need to even trim them. If it works I could whip up the other 6 sets of metal tracks I have in the waiting in just a couple of hours.

Best regards

My pleasure. A friend of mine used them… He gave me the tip.

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You could try using model railroad track nails.
Check for length and diameter.

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Here’s one technique using pins that is faster than some others.


I found that the wire on Friultrack too small in diameter. I substituted phos-bronze 0.022" wire. Sewing pins can be pretty hard steel and could damage not-so-hot wire cutters. Chinese metallurgy sometimes leaves something to be deisried and cutting hard wire does as much damage to the cutters as the wire.

Wire is plenty strong enough. I use common brass “beading wire” that can be found at any of the big-box craft stores. I have several sizes / gages and it’s useful for many other things besides making track pins. I just pick the size I need by test fitting to what will work best for the tracks in question.

The “trick” is to not to bother trying to cut it to exact length “pins” but rather cut a long piece (about 10" is fairly convenient), straighten it out by rolling it on your workbench under a metal ruler. Then insert it into the track links and cut it flush with nippers. (Fingernail clippers work great for this and a lot of other modeling jobs.)

If it gets too “bent” to insert, then just re-roll it and continue. When you get to the end, the piece that’s too short can just be tossed. The wire is really inexpensive when you consider how much a 1/2" or so of it costs. Alternatively, put the left-over pieces into a little box or something to save for later model projects.

Trying to cut exact length pins is a total waste of time. You can anchor one end using CA or PVA glue, but I don’t bother with this step. Once on the model, the pins are not going to just come out somehow on the display shelf.

If you really want to use straight pins, then source the very fine pins used for insect collecting. They’re way longer than you’ll need, and much more expensive than just using cheap wire, but they are stronger than the white metal that the track links are made of. You’ll waste a lot as you cut them down, but they do come in different lengths so you can buy shorter or longer ones depending.

Insect Pins

Longer Insect Pins

You will need regular wire cutting pliers to cut these hard pins and will quite likely need to grind the cut ends with a Dremel to make them flush if the end appearance is important. DO NOT USE your really nice sprue cutters! You WILL ruin them cutting these things.

(A couple of years ago I had need to cut the heads off of several thousand sewing pins that were to be painted and used as 1/72 scale metal concertina wire fence “pickets” for a very large museum diorama. I had to use a small pair of regular wire cutters. Straight pins are harder than Hades…)


Sometimes more damage, especially hardened steel …