And that’s the bogies done:
At the front of each, I drilled four holes using a jig I made years ago, and added a bolt on the top (there should be one on the other side too, but it’s all but invisible when the bogies are on the tank). The idler wheels are 3D prints my brother made for me, from a file by Robert Lockie on Cults3D. I’m using this one mainly because the Asuka wheels don’t have the inward-turned rim the real wheels do.
Onto the lower hull, I added the upper:
The green parts are because my kit is missing two sprues, with the D and G parts (that is, one sprue with both D and G parts, times two). Many of the parts on those, you usually don’t all need, like fuel cap covers, periscope lids, etc. so I have plenty in my spares box. The hinges for the drivers’ hatches are not something you usually have spare, but I did from my Sherman BARV. But even if I hadn’t had them, they would have been very easy to make from some plastic card.
The lifting eyes on the glacis are from Dragon. They’re also on sprue D, but the ones in the kit are incorrect for this tank anyway: Churchill looks like it was made at Fisher Tank Arsenal, and those tanks all had lifting eyes on “pads”, which the kit doesn’t give you. Happily, I had some in my spares box, with putty added for the welds.
The grey parts on the back deck are from the Value Gear set that was in the box, but I had to adjust them to fit where they do now. They’re made to fit further forward, so the cut-out for the fuel filler cap is too far back, which means it took some work to carve a new one in both parts.