Superglue, any tips, tricks, and ideas for a newer modeler?

Hello everyone!
As the title says, any ideas ect.
Also, what ways are there to clean up excess superglue?

One of the new super glue tricks, I learned from Night Shift Scale Models - Martin Kovac.

Basically use a quality thin black super glue for attaching detail parts. The thin black super glue has rubber in it and is more shock and bump resistant than typical thin super glue. Since the black super glue is easy to see a little bit of quality super glue de-bonder on a paint brush makes clean up of excess easy.

One of the old super glue tricks is carefully align difficult to cement parts and hols them in correct alignment.

Carefully apply a small amount of super glue on the inside seam. Use a a small paint brush to apply a little super glue accelerator and instantly bond the parts in the correct alignment. Next apply liquid cement like Testors or Tamiya for a strong bond.

Often on difficult joins liquid cement is too slow to bond and hold parts in the correct alignment. The parts flex and nasty glue squeeze mara the outside surface of the joint. The dab of super glue cured instantly prevents that flexing joint with glue squeeze.

I also find I like the thin black super glue for attaching detail parts. For larger seams and joints i like medium super glue as its less prone t flow into unwanted areas.


I have replaced most (say 90%) of my superglue needs with acrylic glue like Gator Grip Glue or ULTRA GLUE - FOR ETCH, CLEAR PARTS & MORE - AMMO by Mig Jimenez

While it is not as strong as CA, I find it good enough, and you can clean the excess with water before it dries -plus it does not cure instantly so you have time to adjust the part perfectly to its place.

1 Like

I stole (or borrowed) one of my wifes sewing needles, snipped 1/2 the end off that the thread goes through so I have a super fine 2 prog fork left over. Took an old paint brush, pulled off the furrel, drilled a slightly smaller hole than the needle and pushed it home and sealed it in place w super glue. Nice and easy to use tool now to apply super glue, once it gets clogged up I’ll chip and scrap it clean or step outside w a lighter and burn it clean. Those two prongs will hold just a touch of glue and way easier than the old toothpick or dental pick that never seemed to hold enough or was unwieldy to use in cracks and seams on 35t scale PE parts. Plus I like the longer brush handle balance wise then some of those smaller applicators I’ve tried.

the biggest problem whit CA its storage,usually its more the glue you waste than the glue you actually use,buy small quantity and if you can store in the freezer,the glue absorb moisture from the air to cure and no moisture under zero (Celsius),i have a plastic tub in my freezer whit all my CA and to help i put some silica gel,before i have to dump my glue every 6 months now i have the same CA for 2 years and still good

Just yesterday, I had to correct a major photo-etch error. I was able to do so using de-bonder for removal and cleanup of the parts. ZAP Z-7 Debonder is my new friend! :smiley:


Apply Superglue with a toothpick squirted onto a piece of cardboard or an Index Card…easiest way.

Many modelers use Gorilla Glue Superglue because hobby shops are closing and hence CA hobby shop superglue is getting harder and harder to find. Gorilla Glue can be found at most hardware stores and supermarkets.

Buy the Liquid DeBonder, not the gel Debonder. Amazon rates Debonder and the watery kind rates better than any gel DeBonder. :grin:

1 Like