No our criteria IS NOT different - it is exactly the same.
I, at least can experience the tactile qualities of a model both by touch AND visually. Is there anyone reading this that does not think the hood surface on my Cat D7 in the photo is going to feel rough to the touch? (Even without touching it?)
Unless perhaps if you are modeling in N, Z or OOO scale but personally I think all the above still applies even there, you just have to be much more careful. You have to think SMALL!
Scale is key regarding acceptable texture. Actual sand is small to us but much larger when used as sand in a 1/35th diorama. Using sand on a helmet will greatly exaggerate the texture in 1/35th. Rust ground up to use in 1/35th must be made finer.
Actual water looks like syrup in old war movies showing models of fleet battles.
Iâm not criticizing your work⌠it looks great. Iâm just saying those wishing to replicate your results will have to mind their technique to get those results.
Made the mistake with the flat base many moons ago when I was a young pup. What I use now is the Tamiya clear flat with a bit of extra flat base mixed in. I have not had any problem with frosting as some others have indicated. Like Michael, I do spray from a distance so that it goes on nearly dry.
Always liked dull coat, but yours nice also.
I hear you.
As an established Floquil RailRoad & Floquil Military Colors user, I wonât alter my primary airbrushing paints. So I get what youâre saying.
None the less, I still dabble & experiment to a degree with various newer paints and various products. Ensures something better hasnât come along for my applications. Few things worse in the hobby than missing out on a trick product that makes things better.
Usually, thatâs a futile endeavor. However, once in a while one discovers a fantastic product like StarBond Black Super Glue with rubber in it that has superior shear strength. Lot of cool tricks with StarBond Black that regular CA canât match.
I feel the same way about my recent discovery of Citadel Paints, Shaders and Texture Paints. That is thanks to my son the Warhammer, 40K, DnD, fantasy figure painter.
I recently tried the rubberizied CA. Not the same brand but I really like the stuff. Iâm on the search for that Citadel set as well. Have used several of their washes in the past but the LHS stopped carrying them. I think there is a gaming shop near by that I need to investigate.
FYI - it has been my experience that matte clear mixing base (in the automotive industry anyway) used to be a cloudy transparent white color. I always assumed it had some super fine white powder mixed in suspension. So I could see that maybe mixing a flat base into an already flat color might give you some cloudy whitening of the color??? Just thinking outloud here.
Thanks Pal.
Iâm trying.
I donât really consider that all this qualifies as much of a âtechniqueâ.
Link to Easy weathering and aging tips using Washes and Shaders
and a âHow Toâ on some ways of doing wood floor decking:
Before the days of the invention of âPigmentsâ for the hobby industry there was something called âArtistâs Soft Pastelsâ.
If used just for model weathering, a set like the one shown below might last you the rest of your life. This particular set is no longer made but several of these sets, some in like new condition are currently available on eBay ($30 to $50)
One can definitely get a lot of use out of a set artist pastels, 30+ years, ~180+ model projects and countingâŚ
BTW - New soft artist pastel chalk is available for less than $15 at Hobby Lobby artist pastel chalk.. One set is less than $4 if on sale.
no no. not OIL pastels. Theyâre a different thing. more like sticky crayon. artist soft pastels or pastel chalks is what you want.
You guys are correct. Says âSoft Pastelsâ right on the box - my bad.
Correction made.
Honestly you should try the AMMO ultra matt Lucky Varnish. Its amazing, you can airbrush it straight outta the bottle and it kills ANY shine on your model.
I would say it works as well if not a little better then Tamiya matt. Plus its fairly cheap.
Heres an example on a 1/100 Pz.i
(Yea thats a normal sized AMMO paint bottleâŚ)
Likewise, this now ultra rare maji-kal elixir of refined pure unobtanium will kill any gloss. Pattened by Vulcans in 23rd Century. Pure Area 51 alien 
technology. More valuable by weight than tritium.
Thins if desired with a few drops of water or few drops of Tamiya X-20A thinner. 1 cc by volume at 10 psi will do a 1/35 scale tank model.
If you acquire a bottle keep it on the down low cause the alphabet soup CIA/KGB/NSA/MI6/Mossad/NKVD/FSK/Klingons/SkyNet will come after it using time travel if needed.
Democrats have out lawed ownership in the blue states and Republicans confiscate in red states.
Youâve been warned 
Flats are serious have to have some fun with it.
Guys, please know that I totally agree with your air brush advice: (and Panzer that Pz. I of yourâs is pretty freakân beautiful!)
However ~ Now do an AB color change for me in under 20 seconds. Or do an AB finish and clean up for the night in the same amount of time!
In my case, I pick up a different color can * to change colors, or wipe off the nozzle and snap the cap closed and I am done for the night.
I have nothing against the airbrush. ~ I do actually own a compressor and an old, single action Paasche. I just almost never use them.
Like I said somewhere above: "no shirt, no shoes, no air brush required."
(Not every new modeler out there is ready/able/willing to invest in an AB.)
*A Word of Advice: ~ NEVER take the lid off more than one spray can at a time or sooner or later you WILL grab the wrong can while painting your model.
You donât have an airbrush roadie? 
