The Great Ones

Update
The kit wheel assembly.

The big wheel is roughly a double thick single wheel. It should be two wheels.

Jig to cut grove into tire.

The kit wheel after four revolutions in the jig, sanding, hand scribing to widen groove and Testor’s Liquid Cement.

Working on the tracks…

Pretty favorable impression of 30+ year old Model Kasten tracks, no visible punch marks on the track links to clean up when assembled! Links on turret will need two punch marks removed.

Separate guide teeth, not jazzed about those. However the pin :pushpin: set up is pretty sharp. As bonus there’s fender bolts & turret track holder.

Despite the fiddle factor, they are fun to build.

25 links, three hours…

Will square the guide teeth after the LC dries.

Cleaning remaining links…

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Wheels…proved a little frustrating at times…Kali & Joey had this to say…

Eight wheels were shaved to a more appropriate thickness, all of double thick wheels were groved to simulate two tires and the first front wheel removed. It was fairly common for Tiger’s to have the first front removed due to it collecting mud.

Tracks assembled.

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Okay! Since i picked up this kit, which was produced in 1989; I’ve decided to jump on this group build.

image

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Welcome aboard!

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Nice one!! I still have the 250/5 Nordland version on the Shelf of Shame.

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I was reviewing a “Buddy Build” from “Hamilkar Barkas” on YT (don’t mind the German). It is a really nice build with lots of good advice; plus adding a transfer case from an Sd.Kfz. 7 was an astute move.

A quick update that doesn’t include tracks or road wheels. :wink:

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The face and skintones looks great!

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Re-clocked sprocket teeth so tracks would fit.

Test

Modified wheels, sprockets & tracks test fit good enough.

Added bolts & weld to lower front bow.

No side skirts, wanted to use those square nuts…we never get to use square nuts it seems.

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Great work! Love the extra details.

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That is the way John Wayne would’ve done it.

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Front, rear & fenders…

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Back at it again. I sprayed the interior of the hull black then trimmed off the roadwheel arms to the proper length.


I then spent some time boxing in the sponsons. The 3 different angles were a little challenging. Once done I had to fight the new fit issues trying to fit the upper hull to the lower hull. The front would not slide down far enough for a proper fit at the front edge of the hull. Did some hidden surgery and got a reasonable fit.

The next step is to prep for Zimmerit. I fit the tool racks to the side of the hull along with the spare track holders. I made the missing tool mounts Tamiya left off for thr cleaning rods and for the sledge hammer.

I engraved the locations of the rear storage boxes and exhaust so I will know where not to zimm. I used the back edge of a number 11 to engrave. I trimmed off the rear exhaust mount and replaced it with some sheet plastic. I will custom make some PE to mount there.

Now, what to use for Zimm? I have 3 items on hand.

I tried all 3 out. The first was a soft cream, not so good for zimm. The second was Squadron Putty that was a might old and on the thickish side. The third was Matts recomendation. Bondo putty from Auto Zone.

The creamy putty was a bust, at least how I was using it. I used it to stipple the Squadron Putty and got a reasonable representation of the actual zimm texture. The Bondo went on the easiest but I have to put flower on it to keep it from sticking to any tools I use to spread it. I need a little more practice but I plan to start zimming tomorrow. Any suggestions as to keeping the Bondo from sticking to my tools would be appreciated.

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Modified early style air pre-cleaners into later style ones and added PE fiddle bits.

Attached mufflers & exhaust shrouds. Installed the poppet valvws slightly ajar to simulate engine at idle.

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So…what camera are you using?

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I’m not much of a photographer, it’s a Galaxy 5G cellphone.

No image processing, as is.
Pictures cropped as needed.

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You are already well on your way to put us all to shame!
One thing that gave me headaches on my Tiger was how to paint the exhausts with the shrouds in place.

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Not at all Ron, there many excellent builds in this thread! I’m just focused on avoiding watching The Young & the Restless with my better half.


Moving slowly forward…

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Some more progress and a conundrum to resolve…

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Here’s the conundrum. There are only a few ways to appropriately mount the radio on the figure. The primary method would be via a lightweight rucksack frame. That’s the route I am choosing because it was the most common, and hence the shoulder straps. The other means would be the canvas radio rig mostly seen early in the war and much less common would be to sling the radio over the shoulder via a GP strap connected to the handles on the radio.

Here’s the problem. Verlinden’s radio is way too small. I looked for a suitable alternative, and the only “1/16” PRC-25 available is one from a more obscure model made by Dog Tag. It comes with a nice lightweight ruck frame, but sadly that radio is the same size of the Verlinden version. In fact, the radios and the frames are all 1/8" too small for that scale. I checked the measurements on the ones in my collection.

Several years ago I commissioned a 3D modeler to make several Vietnam rucksacks that I hoped would be suitable for modeling and selling. One such model was a radio and a frame that I specifically intended for a future Verlinden build such as this. Below is a comparison of all three. From left to right is the Dog Tag radio/frame, the custom 3D printed frame and the Verlinden radio.

Here is a picture of the Dog Tag radio and frame against the figure. It doesn’t look too bad, but it’s too small.

Especially when compared with actual photos.

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Here is a photo of the properly sized 3D model.

And here is a photo of the Verlinden radio with a 3D model of the properly sized frame. It looks ridiculous.

Seeing as the Dog Tag model was probably made sometime in the 1990’s and my dissatisfaction with the scale, the only way I could move forward and maintain the spirit of this event is scratch build a frame and a radio. Since it’s my time and I commissioned a model to be made for this purpose that already includes a speaker box, an accessory bag and smoke grenades, I’m going with my 3D model.

So, if you’re willing to keep me on this campaign, then great. If not, I’ll withdraw for not meeting the terms and continue the build on its own thread. Please let me know your thoughts.

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