Dan, I looked his kit up on scalemates, very difficult since Dragon has done so many different versions. Anyway, it said: We don’t have the exact instruction sheets, but we have them for: and showed a similar set of instructions, that also did not show that step. You may have been shown different instructions.
You have to be careful with scalemates sometimes.
Ken
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I guess the N I looked up is different than your N.
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Haha. Dragon instructions.
Chaotic is a nice term for messy and often incomprehensible.
You’re doing an admirable job with them @Armor_Buff .
Anyone ever built a Dragon Abrams AIM or SEP? Or SEPv2? Arrrgh!
I’m sure @tankerken has.
Maddening….
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With Dragon “instructions” is certainly a contradiction in terms. They should call them confusions! 
Ken
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Could be worse. I had an Alan kit tell me to install the transmission in a Pz II AFTER installing the bulkheads and glacis. That was not possible.
Dragon’s stuff I can usually figure out but I find their biggest error is in the reusing of older sprues and failing to make sure they can distinguish this A from that A over there. I used to build all the 1/48 Bandai and most were in Japanese so I learned to work from images and ignore text.
And I guess the Neo instructions were simplified by leaving out some info.
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@Dan Dan, there so many versions of Pz III by Dragon its naturally confusing. My kit is #6956 and that’s #6559. #6559 would be my choice since it has the skirts, wish I had that one instead.
@tankerken Ken, that’s great information much appreciated 
. I didn’t realize that happened with Scalemates on occasion wirh instructions.
@Arch-Stanton Al, thank you. Indeed Dragon Confusions best term for them yet. I recall tangling with a Dragon Abrams long ago in early or mid 1990’s and it was pretty horrible. Definitely not the SEP or SEPv2. It didn’t survive my culling the heard of built kits in 2009.
@brekinapez definitely could be far worse…its not like its an early 1990’s Dragon BMP that’s practically designed not to fit together.
Reinforcements have arrived in the form of RFM tracks for my Dragon kit!
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Perfect replacement for DS or the old indy links if you have some older Dragons lying around. I’ve bought 8 sets of them.
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Agreed and a nice improvement for the new Dragon Neo kits with link & lenght tracks. That’s where one set goes and the other for a Tamiya Stug III G & Tamiya Panther G.
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As I already had at least one of every variant Dragon pumped out before the Neos were released, I haven’t experienced those yet.
Now, if Dragon could stop making other parts out of DS, like the hoses and watertight fittings for the Operation Seelöwe kit.
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Agreed, not a DS fan. It’s almost like it’s a variation of that horrible rubber/vinyl tire compound Dragon used in the 1990’s that disintegrated, split or cracked.
In other modeling news, Kali Kat started a new lecture series on the merits of Tamiya Acrylic paint thinned with lacquer thinners.
Kali dispersed information from the mantel last night while I cleaned up Pz III/IV track link for ~ 4 hours. Wrapped a box and a half.
Ah the Glorious Smell of Molak Stucco Putty & Testors Liquid Cement in the morning!
After joining the hull together decided I wanted add a minimal bit of texture on the rolled vertical armor plates. Not necessary but I like the effect and feel it helps when painting & weathering. Also added texture to various cast parts too.
Have to scrap the “U” into an “L” on the Continentau tires & rollers, add a couple of weld seams, assemble tracks and a add a few more parts before wrapping Step 14.
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Took sort of a mini-break from the Dragon Pz III to work on a couple of jerry cans & tracks.
~Two boxes + some OCD ='s 40 Italeri Jerry cans. So much for a couple of jerry cans.
For relics from last century, I think the Italeri jerry cans hold up pretty well.
Of course, these are all “1943” Wehrmacht jerry cans. I didn’t break out the Tasca ones. Thinking about painting jerry cans lead to an interesting goose chase on the internet. Posted for discussion only.
Cleaned up two sets of RFM PZ III/IV tracks over the weekend plus a bonus set of Panther tracks.
Getting back on topic, started working on the RFM tracks for the Dragon Pz III. Doing 9 links at a time for the RFM Stug III G was a little too slow so here’s a new 27 link jig made from 3 of the 9 piece jigs. 
We’re ramping up production!
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Here’s a serious jerrycan geek book-
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That a sweet find! That’s a heck of a book with a $500 price tag! A little too expensive for my hobby budget.
One could just about get a WW2 German jerry can off ebay for the same cost.
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Wow! I didn’t even look at the price. I’ve got the book and I’d sure sell it for that price!
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I was about to buy then realized it was $500 not $50 like I first thought 
I’ll sell you mine for only $400!
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OK, I know there is a lot of history to the old jerrycan, but there is no way I can see there being $500 worth of history there! And I bet they don’t even cover the US versions!
Ken
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91 links, looks a little tight
92 links, looks a little loose
Favoring 92 links, open to hearing others opinions. Thanks!
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Why don’t you use the wrench in the toolbox there on the fender and adjust the idler wheel?
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Looking good!
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