Just doing numbers (…on Zimmerit)
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Spray booth plumbing madness , continued.
Window vent installed. Has slats on the outside.
25 plus years of overspray on the binds and window sills…
Sliding shut off (cuff). This is really for dust management systems; I hope it’ll reduce backdraft thru the outside vent.
Spray booth flange connector slid on to cuff.
Seems to work. I think I’ll reduce the riser height by 3/4” tomorrow so it’s a straighter shot.
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A three-day temperature window of 58°F!
That allowed me to get a lot of outdoor rattle-can work out of the way. 
Wooden base was painted with Rust-Oleum (7798830) Semi Gloss Black.
Concrete slab is textured with Mr Surfacer 1500.
Concrete slab painted with Tamiya Ts-99 IJN Grey (Maizuru Arsenal).
Below, some fracture feature closeups.
Thank’s for having a look!
—mike …
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@ Al (Arch-Stanton).
Nice set-up! Really nice that you have a straight-shot to the window! 
—mike
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Perfection.
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I won’t show close ups.
As an airbrush practice exercise, it did what I needed.
But I can’t honestly say it’s good.
Too many finger prints in the gloss etc.
I need to work out what the issue with this gloss is(Vallejo acrylic gloss rattle can), as it seems really soft. At least holding it is leaving permanent marks.
I suspect it was applied way to thick and is my own fault. But that was about a week ago, and still seems ever so slightly tacky.
Some more tests before any further real work
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@_SingleMalt, please let us know if the Vallejo clear coat dries hard (your model looks great in the pics). I use Alclad’s Aqua Gloss, which I like. It dries fairly quickly and hard enough to polish - but, putting it on - makes me very nervous. It has a milky consistency with a blueish tint! I apply several layers, they suggest a wet coat or two and a few drier layers…the fear of ponds or big streaks of clear coat occurring is always present. I use Vallejo Model Air paint on almost everything, with good result, so am tempted to try their clearcoat.
Cheers
NIck
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While I ran out of materials to keep going on the big truck, I had plenty of stuff on hand to make the load:
Naturally! A big box - no idea what these are used for - obviously to store fluids, but beyond that - no clue! My truck now has one. It will get some sort of industrial-looking paint - maybe an institutional green or light blue? I looked at several prototypes for this, apparently used ubiquitously in oilfields around the world.
OK, happy model building -
Cheers
Nick
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What the hell Nick! That is freakin’ amazing! 
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Not a Clear Coat expert myself. But thank’s to fellow member who shall be known as… Matthew SSGToms and his recommendation, I’ve started using ‘Holloway House Quick Shine Floor Finish.’ Seems to do the trick alright. So far, I’ve air brushed it onto parts, coated under/over decals, and simply wiped it onto a large surface area — levels-out nicely in 15-20 minutes. … Heck, I might even go polish the kitchen floor with it! 
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So anyway, what I’ve been up to lately. Here’s a quick dry-fit session for the Haunebu IIb diorama.
—mike …
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Actually from this past weekend since I have had some student paperwork to do this week:
Camo and a mild filter on my Stug III F8 and StuH 42. Small details and decals, then weathering. The F8 will get a whitewash.
And a trio of 1/144 Bandai Star Wars. The snowspeeder is going to be part of an AT-AT/AT-ST on Hoth scene. The starfighters will just sit next to my Falcon, Slave 1, and Razor Crest.
Other than the decals on the X-wing and the off-white base coats everything is hand-painted. Still have to do the droids and little bits but otherwise they are done as far as I am concerned.
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The acrylic AK gloss gets the same weird blue tint before drying too.
It’s especially disconcerting when spraying it on sand or green colors.
That truck is outstanding. Beautiful work.
@_SingleMalt Drew, it might just be that I’m OCD, but I’ve learned the hard way over time never to handle anything that’s been painted unless I’m wearing gloves.
Flat paints are really bad about oily fingerprints.
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You maybe on to something with gloves. 
My only concern really is that the fingerprint is not Jost on the surface, but can be felt in the surface.
Current thinking is that it either takes a very long time to dry… Unlikely
Or I applied it in too many at once or too thick coats( or both). I was in a rush and didn’t exactly treat it nicely.
I’ll be checking some results on some test models a d compare.
But gloves are probably advisable regardless of the outcome
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Got some clear on the missile this morning and used my spiffy new spray booth.
Now I’m waiting for the Microsol to do its thing.
You should have seen it an hour ago. It’s all down hill from here….
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Zenithal primed about 250 28mm miniatures and 20 1/2400 ships. Fought Vallejo primer the whole time but being cheap on some things I’m going to use it all up if it kills me.
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I have finished construction on my Nibelungen May 1943 production Bulgarian Maybach(Pz.Kpfw.IV Ausf.G, Fgst.84280, Bulgarian reg. number B 60258):
It is my 6th Bulgarian Maybach built since May last year and I am planning to build 7 more from the Pz.IV kits I have in my stash.
Cheers,
Angel
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Very tidy workmanship @ayovtshev. Is this a Border kit? and is the chain below the muffler etch or something else? 
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Thanks David!
Yes, the base kit is the Border Models Early/Mid Ausf.H, with plenty of pieces from the spares box(Border Model and MiniArt).
All chains were made by twisting and pressing thin wire:
HTH,
Cheers,
Angel
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Looking great Angel … Nice clean build 
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