Chapeaux !!! 
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Dan,
C785 is the DODIC number. It is a short-hand for the NSN. As ammo is a high use item, the Army uses the DODIC to reduce errors - fewer digits for exhausted troops to transpose.
Here is the page from the Direct Fire Ammunition Handbook for the round.
Rick
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Shot alot of them. Thankfully none of the black versions.
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Yeah, on a 103 degree day in August…
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Hummm, Thought you were going to say you have a meeting with some hart to please clients.
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it’s a map and chart holder.
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Spent some time on the Panzer Art wheels for my M817 dump. I had to remove the wheel nuts/studs from the 4 inner rears to accommodate the kit hub axle. Airbrushed the tires Tamiya German Grey and brushed* the wheels in AK 3rd Gen OIF/ODS sand.
*I looked at some DEF wheel masks, as I have a few sets of these but decided hand painting was the way to go.
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Any pics? Also, I found the Panzer Art wheels really tight on the AFV Club hubs, almost too tight to fit. You may want to open them up with some sand paper so they slide on easier.
I prefer the Def masks. They work really well. I paint the wheel first and then use the circle mask on them and paint the black tire.
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I’ll take a pic tomorrow. Interesting point about the PA wheels and kit hubs. I’m finding the PA hubs fit well but need shortening to match the kit hubs. The kit hub diameter seems too small for the PA rims, so I guess they vary in size. I’ll include my hub measurements tomorrow with a pic.
Point here: maybe it’s safer to use the kit hubs and fill the small surrounding gap with something? I’ll check to see if the two pieces fit together well. All that cutting and sanding of the PA hubs while wearing a face mask dammit !
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I found the PA wheels were too tight on the kit brake drums, where there is a lip toward the back. If you sand/cut off/grind down the outer lip of the brake drums, you should be good.
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Wasn’t brave enough to airbrush the little lines so I hand-painted them. Still have to touch up a few spots but this puts me over the biggest painting hurdle for the SdKfz 11/4 and I can continue completing this build.
Also painted the camo on the wheels of the AFV 7.5cm Pak 40 as I forgot to do them when I painted the gun itself (d’oh!) so I can assemble and finish that as well.
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I’ve just been down and taken a look at this. The PA wheel is definitely too small to fit the brake drum diameter-wise, but you’re also talking about the wheel fitting right onto the drum like the kit wheels do I guess? From what you said, the smaller outer section of the drum needs to be removed- totally? before the wheel will fit. If its a total removal I’ll razor saw them tomorrow. Is my understanding correct?
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You are correct. If you remove the ridge around the brake drum, you will be good.
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Given the tight fit -wheel to brake drum, I guess I’ll also be either sanding down the PA wheel or the kit brake drum to match the kit wheel’s fit.
ETA Just realized what you meant about the inner rim. In my case I need to grind off that riaised ring but also grind off some of the wheel’s inner rim just to fit the wheel over the main body of the drum. Wonder if PA know about these variances in their fit ?
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Printed out one of the 31" Mattel Space 1999 Eagle landing feet. The STL files I obtained are very good quality and perfect reproduction parts.
Having said that, I won’t be using these feet for my Eagle as they are still ugly.
The BattleScale Collectica Show
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I’m not much of an allied armor guy. So just asking, not being critical. How come the comander’s hatch has a green head bumper, but the gunner’s hatch head bumpers are brown? My other question is, 'if the mud splatter on the rear hull is what is on the bogies and suspension, why is there not any on the tracks anywhere or any on the front glacis?
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