What did you do in your modeling workshop today?

my daughters were so excited as the snow fell again. Me and my son not so much lol.

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I miss the snow since my move from NJ,thought there would be a little more since i’m in the mountains of Western NC,but we haven’t had a good one since Jan.21

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Here’s the result of my last 4 months of fumblings. Christmas, my birthday and a couple hospital visits interrupted progress, but I’m satisfied with the outcome.

The electrical power cord is barely visible as it’s run behind/beneath the trailer’s spare tire.

The M9 ACE was a nice project in itself. Lots of detail in those Takom kits!

Used a 1mm scale strap and buckle on the trailer spare tire. Given the job it’s doing I figured that would be enough. Can see the coiled electrical cord in this pic.

Front tiedowns were fun to installl. About 4 hours bench time using Accurate Armour pieces.

I used Tamiya Weather Master on the windshield.

All in all, including the fun job of teasing the front tiedowns into position, I reall enjoyed this build.

Onto the HobbyLink M125 and trailer combo next!

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What a beautiful combo :+1::+1:

Been working on a 1973 Hasegawa OV10 Bronco in 1/72 for the Vietnam campagne. Lacks a decent cockpit so…


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A modeling buddy of mine said(he served on tanks for 10 years), a folded tarp over OPVT tube made a cosy place for the TC to lean on…so I’ve added a folded tarpaulin to the turret of the Bulgarian T-55A Kladivo:

The tarp was made from rubber glove, ties are from 0.3 mm solder wire, pressed and rolled against hard surface with the handle of a K2 Excel knife.

I’m also experimenting with styrene, foam rubber and white glue to build the OPVT spares bag, that’s tied on the rear of the turret.

Cheers,
Angel

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The tarp looks great. :+1:

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Yes, I second Ryan on this one: I’ve never heard someone using a latex glove for tarp. The effect, however is very nice!!!

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Man I dig that Helldiver! :ok_hand:

Cajun :crocodile:

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I feel for you Al. We havent had as much as 5cm over a day yet this Winter so the contractor hasn’t been around to pick up the few light dumps we’ve had. I don’t touch it following a DVT a few years back, so it stays it is.

I got a hospital visit ride in by one of the community volunteer drivers recently though and when he brought us home he’d only shoveled the entire thing, breezeway and all!

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I get it. We don’t shovel snow here. I’m incapable. Maybe afterwards with lots of narcotics, but I’m not willing to go that route.

It’s been well above freezing for the last two nights and it’s currently 50F, so it’s all melting.

My Danish decals arrived:

Hat Tip/ @Gambrinus

More bits and pieces on the Bundeswehr M113 G3 GE

Please note side skirts here- I spent a lot of time punching discs and cutting them to fit the front step on the side skirts and cutting the skirts to replicate the awful EM resin skirts.

Then after looking at my reference, I realized they weren’t supposed to be like that at all- the steps were intact. It was easier to ct and paste….

Also did the hot water thing to the resin superstructure roof. Glue bottle weights for the final fit.

The remaining of the resin (and some printed parts)

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I’ve stayed busy on the Ford flatbed. It was windy but not raining yesterday, so I was able to paint up the cab and then add some weather.

As usual, when not building an F1 car, the paint went on flawlessly! :smile: Tamiya rattle can paint and primer. I only include these because of the way the body turned out, which exceeds my hope. There is a lot of evergreen fill and putty in the fender wells - quite a surprise that it worked out as well as it did. The pic in the lower right, is inspiration of sorts, but first, the cab on the truck:

I almost hated ruining this! :smile:, not really, and with that “lived in” look:

No, the cab is not touching the bed, it’s the angle of the photo

I received a few comments on the build thread about the bed, and making sure it too received some abuse. The bed rails are made from brass sheet and PE remnants, neither of which were dented up before installation, so, post installation I went back and dented them up! Despite this, you can barely see it! Maybe with better lighting you 'll be able to notice? :thinking: :smile:

So, now this truck looks like hoped - as it will be used in a diorama, where I want it too look like something owned by an engineering or concrete contractor. I’ll add a bit more dirt to the front tires to take the shine down. OK, on we go!

Cheers
Nick

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Well I’m on a whole new adventure today. Cleaning and drying the many parts of HobbyLink’s M125 10-ton truck. I read a review on the AMPS site talking of the serious warping of the frame, so I was a bit trepidacious on that point. Many fine cuts were needed to get it straight. Turns out there are 2 frames included in the kit and at least one of them looks straight to my eyes.

Separating parts from the 3d forms will start tomorrow. Going to visit my 94-year old Mom today.

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Back in the saddle after working on M26 tracks after an unpleasant & unexpected flair up of gout in the fingers.

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We had a “marriage” this evening:

Now it’s Kalin’s @k_mero4 turn to do his usual magic when painting the Kladivo.

Cheers,
Angel

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That looks great. Thanks for sharing. :+1:

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It’s the great promodeler kit.

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I wonder how the glove holds up to paint and primer plus weathering. Very interested in this new technique.

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Released and started clean up of this very nice motorcycle 1:35 scale. This arrived from Timu where I was looking for figures having a tea break, to add to others I found elsewhere for a diarama with a Scammel that I’ve had in mind for a while now.


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I finished assembling the Canadian M113 adats. It was a big project for me. I’m not used to this type of kit. Now I have to do the painting, which I’ll do later. For now, I’m taking advantage of the winter to go snowmobiling.

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Hi Phillip,

My experience is:

-latex glove holds primer and paint well, even when relatively hot laquer thinners(like Mr.Color or Mr.Color Leveling Thinner) are used.

-if not sealed with varnish and touched too often some scratches-especialy on the “ridges” and “peaks” of the folds- might appear.They are easily taken care of with hand brush.

-once sealed with varnish, the glove stands weathering very well.

-still it’s surface is susceptible to paint flaking if stretched.

What works for me best with latex glove stowage is to prime, paint and seal, then attach to the model and weather on spot.

HTH,
Cheers,
Angel

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