In my opinion, models are to be looked at, not handled. Weight doesn’t matter in this case. Plus, you have to handle that weight while constructing and painting and decaling. Tamiya thought so at one point and was including die-cast metal roadwheels in their Leclerc kit and the chassis of their JGSDF Light Armored Vehicle. Thankfully, they use plastic now. I have enough trouble with my fingers with kits without adding weight.
Tamiya 1/48 armor series started out with metal hulls to give weight to the kits. As I recall, they now offer plastic hulls and small weights.
For me the bulk and stance of the AFV itself “suggests” it’s heftiness, there’s only two reasons I can think of to necessitate adding weights, 1) to counter balance the added weight of a model AFV suspended from the lifting boom of say an M88, or 2) to keep the model from skipping across the shelf when the washing machine starts violently spinning out of control from the tub being out of balance.
First of all- you should not feel embarassed to show your work here.Not at all!
This site and forums revolve around the joy of modelbuilding and if you felt that joy building what you have built, your work belongs here.
With regard to your added weight question- if you feel like adding those-just do it!
The two things you’ll need to think about before adding weight are:
Are suspension parts firm enough to bear that weight? You will not like seeing your vehicles laying on the ground, because wheel arms bend under the weight they need to support, or wheel tops lean inside.
How can you ensure the added weight remains glued to the body tube? You don’t need the weight rattling inside the glued body of an AFV at the slightest move, believe me
I added some weight(a steel cylinder glued with CA) to the tube of the BLG-60 AVLB I was building 2 years ago. A week after I glued bottom and top hulls together, the weight came loose and is rattling ever since…I wish I used epoxy glue instead of CA back then.
@LuisyFrancis Luis, that’s an interesting question about adding “scale weight”.
One of my friends who’s an outstanding modeler always likes to add a bit of weight say a pound or half a kilogram to model tanks & ships. He adds less to airplanes, mainly to ensure they don’t end up tail heavy so they will sit level etc. He insists it makes a better impression and the model is handled more carefully.
I like working metal Friulmodellismo tracks or Sector35 tracks etc. These add a bit of weight.
I agree 100 percent with @ayovtshev Angel
Regarding building skills, I was pretty bad starting out. I’m still happy to share pictures of those early models like this JagdPanther with folks.
I believe the members of Armorama want to see everyone’s models and enjoy them. It’s a friendly group that likes to ask questions, discuss, share, learn from each other.
Folks are friendly and helpful in my experience.
Luis. There is no such thing as a perfect model. No matter how experienced you are, you will always feel you can do better. Then, even seasoned builders have bad days (believe me!).
Never feel ashamed to post your work. If you truly want to improve, post your pics in the forum and just make it clear you want people to give you advice as you want to improve. That way you will get real meaningful feedback. This community is all about helping each other, whether it is for build advice, painting or research. There are plenty of posts in here where guys have benefitted from the advice. This is an example of how someone posted their model, got feedback and improved the result. Kudos to Maclee for doing so:
As to weighting a model, lots to consider. I believe that weight should be depicted without adding any material if you can avoid it. As manufactured, most kits show weight distribution where the vehicle would be basically horizontal. If you want to depict a tank climbing or crossing a trench, then the change in weight distribution on tracks/wheels/suspension will change ride, height etc. If you want to show that, then you are best adjusting the height yourself, raising or lowering torsion bar arms, etc.
Here is an example on one of my unfinished builds. The Sherman Crab flail mechanism was heavy and it shifted the weight forward considerably which meant even on a level surface the suspension on the real thing was not the same as a standard gun tank. To depict that, I had to do surgery to lower the ride height of the forward 2 bogie units. The first was dropped to almost maximum (see the arms are almost horizontal), then the middle part way and the rear were left normal. So when viewed from the side, it is a noticeable forward dip.
I also added some lead weight to the rear as the resin conversion is heavy and I did not want it tipping forward, but on a normal styrene kit, that would probably not be an issue.
Then, some modern kits have ‘movable’ suspension. These are not designed to be glued in situ and if you build them like that, then adding extra weight will eventually torque the suspension and the kit will sag lower over time unless you glue the suspension solid.
Hope this helps
Well, this is news to me. I would have never though of weighting down an armor kit.
I have weighed down Aircrafts unless it’s a tail dragged then no need. In fact, I add pennies behind the cockpit of 1/32 A-10 “What If Snow Hog” that I build few years back and half finished 1/32 MiG-23 in the closet. I used them just because I didn’t have any lead laying around and they worked great. I did created a small cradle to hold the pennies so they won’t get loose once the model fuselage was close. The Warthog is still sitting on its nose wheel. So, I am happy. The photo is not current but it’s what I have on my iphone right now but it shows what I am saying.
But, weighting down armor… I’ll have to look into this.
Ok, continue with the tradition of the thread. Couple off items from last few days…
And just to share as I forgot that I had purchased these items…
I saw a YouTube clip while back and an individual used these rubber clay to make molds and replicate parts. I have yet to use them but I’m hoping to make copies of small parts for personal use. Fingers crossed
This is an interesting product, quite simple to use for copies and reusable. You may not get the quality of a traditional silicon mould but for me it’s good enough
Some of you may know what this is.
A hint for the others: I don’t use rubbers …
I spent dollars and cents to buy and ship them and then the post services wanted SEK to pay for VAT and their handling charges.
A few days ago I finally received this bridge over troubled waters:
which will never be crossed by this little beauty:
The bridge needs a contribution from Hobby Boss which was already lurking in the stash, I think …hmmm, need to check the stash …
So many lines…walk away, walk away…
How many do you plan to build… in this lifetime?
At least the kits will be buildable when they auction off the estate
No idea what is this for…
Edit: Yes, I have an idea but I don’t think you would put this here if it was used that way
I hate Dragon DS but this isn’t about Dragons Dmn Sht, it’s another brand …
AFV Cr@p rubber for Cent for sure…
I’d much rather build the old Academy copy of the even older Tamiya Centurion …
Just make sure they let me know when the auction is on, if I am not already battering the Pearly Gates myself…
Well given his stash size, we know his pull out game is weak.
When your stash gets big enough you get what you might call a “season ticket”, ride the full ride and then get right back on it again, the exit gates can be postponed as long as there is still a kit to build …
I’m not sure what this really means but this is too easy of a straight line. I’m not going to touch this.