Wheels of the Union Jack and Tricolore - Oct '21 to March '22

Ok folks, apologies for the delay in getting this one rolling but we are now in the right location and ready to fire up!

You can start and update your build progress entirely in this thread, or start a dedicated thread within this category of the Campaigns and Group Builds Forum.

Personally, I will be posting in this thread and starting a dedicated build log thread in the AutoModeler forum to try to increase traffic on both sites.

Cheers, D

Making a start today - I hope I’m in the right place and doing the right things as this is new to me . Any and all feel free to correct me if I go off course.


Started with interior tub and boy is it a mess …
I have to learn to view this as nostalgic because the kit has a date of 1968 on the battery door - yes that’s right - motorized. I am of course working around the motorized bit but it is already a question of how far do I take it .
Updates to follow .

Great to see you making a start here Richard, fist one out of the gate!

I had a look at the kit history on Scalemates and it shows that Tamiya did indeed first release this as a new-tool kit in 1968, so these moulds are the same age as me ('67 vintage).

Best of luck with the build, this will be a very interesting one to follow indeed.

Cheers, D

Good to see you starting this one Richard and with a Lotus. Seems to have been plenty of those on Automodeller recently. Seeing Damain’s graphic I have the 2014 repop of this.

cheers
Michael

@AussieReg
@cosimodo
Thanks gents !
I’ve made a start on this Stone Age kit - 1968 !
52+years old - the real car had only just begun racing in 1967.
The kit is not without some problems and most of them stem from Tamiya’s philosophy at the time - part scale model / part motorized toy . The battery box occupies the space where the driver’s legs would be and consequently you cannot see anything forward of the dash panel in the cockpit , so no pedals , tub floor etc.
The monocoque tub on the actual car was so narrow that it needed two wells let in for the driver’s elbows. Oddly Tamiya included the right one but not the left , so scratch building the left one became necessary.
Perhaps as a concession to working steering the dashboard is overly thick ( with the attendant sink marks everywhere) , it is located too far back and the steering wheel is centered when on the real car it was offset to the left to make more room for gear changing.


the left well

offset steering wheel.


the included right well and it’s insert

the scratch built left well.
More work yet to be done on these.
To correct the problems with the dash I surgically removed the instrument bezels and the switches with a razor saw and will make an overlay of sheet styrene.
I also sawed off the mounting lugs on the tub sidewalls that were too far aft .

The very toylike underside . I’ve begun to fill all the holes for the on/off switch, battery door, etc.


Thanks for looking.

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Great start Richard, you’ve got a fight on your hands with this one my friend! I’m sure you have the skills to overcome, and if you’re anything like me you will enjoy the challenge and take pride in the end results.

I’ve opened a dedicated build log thread in the Auto forums for my DB5 build, and will post updates here once I get the build started.
Aston Martin DB5 - Doyusha 1/24 Kit - Automotive / Cars - KitMaker Network

Cheers, D

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Richard,
Great catch on the missing elbow well. Clark was small so I guess it wasn’t a issue for him but Hill was taller and I’m sure that his elbow rubbing the side of the cockpit shell was an issue.

Looking forward to seeing how you deal with the bottom of the shell. Are you planning any of your magic for the where the driver’s feet go including the 3 pedals?

joel

I made a start today, assembled the seats (3 parts each) and started going over the main body to remove a bit of flash around the edges and mould lines from the top of each of the 4 quarter panels.

Not much to show, but it’s good to get in amongst the styrene again!

Cheers, D

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Some progress - not much bench time for a bit .
I’ve begun to consider this kit as bit of a test mule for some techniques and for working and painting in a large scale . This kit has so many issues that I am loosing enthusiasm but I will soldier on because I have ordered a 1/12 MFH kit and as they are a bit pricey it will be good to learn a bit on a lesser kit .
The MFH kit is the Tipo 158 Alfetta and as it has a lot of aluminum finish on the interior I am trying some things toward that on the Lotus . Reference photos show a bare aluminum tub interior on some present day cars but photos of this car in 1967 seem to indicate the interior was finished in grey . I am going to play the artistic license card and do aluminum to practice for the MFH kit .The seat as supplied by Tamiya is minimal, perhaps because as a motorized kit it would be expected to have a driver figure .
The real car had some padding / upholstery…


… and what the kit gives you…

I taped up the tub and waxed the tape and tried to replicate the real interior with epoxy putty . This is still very much a work in progress…



Here is the new scratch built dash with offset wheel and closer to scale thickness…

… and the bottom in the first stages of dressing off the fixes …

… and the engine block / transaxle underway …

Thanks for looking !

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Aston Martin and Lotus in the 1960’s - what could be more Union Jack than that. I was thinking it is just as well it didn’t have to be current ownership otherwise I don’t think there are any left? Funnily enough if you Google best British cars it comes up with Bentley, Rolls Royce, Land Rover, Aston Martin, Lotus etc.

cheers
Michael

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Aston Martin DB5 Update -

The mould seams were very prominent on the top edge of the front and rear quarter panels.


I spent some time with a ceramic scraper, sanding sticks and pads to remove them hopefully without impacting the profile too much, then gave the body a good shot of MS1500 Grey primer to check for imperfections (yes, there will be plenty!).


I also shot a pair of plastic spoons with Grey and Black primer to test the Zero Paints Silver Birch on and see which looks best. Once I have the body prep finished I can then re-surface it with my choice of primer colour.

Cheers, D

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Looks very smooth Damian. Nice base for a colour coat.

cheers
Michael

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Looking good D and glad you can get some bench time in. .
Wouldn’t a set of photo etch wire wheels be nice !
Cheers - RT

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OK D, keep it up with the detailed steps, I’m going to have to try them to recover from Airfix’s tooling blunders. :roll_eyes: Just to be sure, the real DB-5 didn’t have seams along the top of the fenders? Never used Mr. Surfacer as a primer. Hve to give that a try. :wave:

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Seriously.
Here’s some of the flash I’ve got to remove.
Front end


Rear, neat trunk seam???

Passenger side

By the way, what’s shape on the rear of the window (C pillar?)? Gas door?
Driver side

There’s that hatch again. I don’t see one on D’s sample.
There’s a “chrome” fitting that goes over the hole in the front fender (I’ve got to supply the chrome) but what should go behind it? :wave:

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@md72 , great to see you making a start here Mark! I had pretty much exactly the same seams all around the shell on my build as well, even across the rear end!

The panels on the rear pillars are fuel filler doors, one on each side.


They are not present on either side of my kit shell, so maybe I got the new electric version :thinking:

Looks like there’s not much detail on the plate that sits in the vent on the front guard. My kit has the outer chrome strip moulded to the body, but nothing behind it.

Cheers, D

Some more progress on the Lotus -
Underside of monocoque dressed off and shot with rattle can high build primer - a little more work to do on some seams but that can be done later…


The kit gear lever and it’s well looked nothing like the original so scratch building of lever , well and linkage was needed . Lever is straight pin with knob of epoxy putty.
Linkage made of brass shim , rod and epoxy putty.
Well is sheet styrene.





Lenses for instruments made of .010” clear styrene by scribing with needle and circle template then cutting out with scissors.

Interior almost ready for paint.
Thanks for looking !

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Interior largely done - sidewalls painted grey .
Box at bottom of tub under dash done with aluminum foil .
Seat and gear lever well Tamiya semi gloss black .
Dash flat black and bezels/switches picked out with silver permanent marker . Instrument lenses of clear styrene set with Future . Knob on gear lever base color sand yellow - woodgrained with burnt umber oil paint . Lotus emblem on top painted with yellow and green - Future clear coat over all.
I purchased another set of Tamiya rivets as used on my RC 166 motorcycle build and used them on dash , gear lever well , sidewalls and seat .



Now on to stripping chrome and starting suspension.

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Beginning to sort out the issues of the ill fitting coaming .
In addition to the poor fit there is next to no contact area down each side between the monocoque and the coaming , making it difficult to get a strong joint .
Gaps filled with sheet styrene. Going to need Archer resin rivet decals to replace rivet detail after filling and sanding.


@Joel_W
This is the high build primer I am using …

Stripping chrome with stuff I use in my parts washer - it removes some paint finishes as well …

Very nice progress Richard, the interior has come up really nicely! Great tip using the silver marker for the bezels. I have used red and yellow markers for the needles in the gauges.
Looks like you’ve got the body fit issues well under control also.

Cheers, D

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