Aston Martin DB5 - Doyusha 1/24 Kit

This is my UK entry into the “Wheels of the Union Jack and Tricolore” Group Build, so I will be posting detailed progress here as well as in the Group Build thread. I reviewed this kit a couple of years back on the old AutoModeler forums, but the image links are broken so I will post the text and images here, and also work up a review for the new site.
This will be my first “kerbside” build, and my first UK auto brand kit build, so a couple of items ticked off the list there as well.

On with the show . . . . . .

Cheers, D

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The Car.

The Aston Martin DB5 is a British luxury grand tourer (GT) that was made by Aston Martin and designed by the Italian coachbuilder Carrozzeria Touring Superleggera. Released in 1963, it was an evolution of the final series of DB4. The DB series was named honouring Sir David Brown (the owner of Aston Martin from 1947 to 1972).
Although not the first in the DB series, the DB5 is the best-known cinematic James Bond car, first appearing in the James Bond film Goldfinger (1964).
The principal differences between the DB4 Series V and the DB5 are the all-aluminium engine, enlarged from 3.7 L to 4.0 L, a new robust ZF five-speed transmission (except for some of the very first DB5s) and three SU carburettors. This engine, producing 282 bhp (210 kW), which propelled the car to 145 mph (233 km/h), available on the Vantage (high powered) version of the DB4 since March 1962, became the standard Aston Martin power unit with the launch in September 1963 of the DB5.
Standard equipment on the DB5 included reclining seats, wool pile carpets, electric windows, twin fuel tanks, chrome wire wheels, oil cooler, magnesium-alloy body built to Superleggera patent technique, full leather trim in the cabin and even a fire extinguisher. All models have two doors and are of a 2+2 configuration. The boot (trunk) lids differed slightly between the DB-4 mark 5 and the DB-5.
Like the DB4, the DB5 used a live rear axle. At the beginning, the original four-speed manual (with optional overdrive) was standard fitment, but it was soon dropped in favour of the ZF five-speed. A three-speed Borg-Warner DG automatic transmission was available as well. The automatic option was then changed to the Borg-Warner Model 8 shortly before the DB6 replaced the DB5. Source: Wikipedia

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The Kit

Scalemates has this kit as first released in the 60’s (no year), and this kit as a 1994 reboxing.

DB5 Timeline

Contents are contained in a solid top opening box. Parts are bagged separately for each sprue, and the body part is protected by a cardboard inner divider.

25 Black parts on 1 sprue, plus floor pan

1 White part (body)





29 Chrome parts on 1 sprue


7 Clear parts on 1 sprue

1 brass rod axle plus 2 aluminium retaining pins

4 rubber tyres and 6 poly caps on one sprue


1 decal sheet

The moulding is very good on all sprues with a small amount of flash, but no sign of mould lines or sink marks to deal with that I can see. The detail is nice and crisp, the plastic is quite hard and resists bending.
The main body part has very nice detailing and no deformity, but there is some flash to clean up. The floor pan detail is very basic.
The chrome sprue is quite good. There are no visible blemishes on the major parts, and the finish is even and glossy. The spoked wheel detail is very good for such a complex design. Some of the smaller parts have some flash and ejector pin marks and a “brushed” looking finish.
The decals look very nice, solid colours, in register, and with virtually no excess carrier film.
The 4 soft rubber tyres have no flash to clean up. The mould detail in the tread is nice, but no manufacturer detail is present.

Cheers, D

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Instructions
The instruction sheet is in booklet style. There are 15 stages with each stage being very brief and in logical sequence. Colour call-outs for the parts are scattered through the instructions, and are very vague or non-existent. My top pick is the call-out for the main body “*Paint favorite body color.” Those that are present call for Mr Hobby paint numbers.








Cheers, D

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Wow! Fabulous kit - makes me wonder whether a consistent collectors’ market already exists for rare/collectable un-made kits? I’m thinking the same way original vintage vinyl records have become established, current values based on prior equivalent sales just like any other auction market. I would think this kit (even though a re-box) might become an increasingly valuable investment staying in its box? (My Sgt Pepper vinyl in good condition might buy part of a 1:1 DB5 if they’re still making petrol around 2040?) I’m surprised the vinyl (?) tyres haven’t melted, were they still sealed in a/the bag?
On the other hand I’m really looking forward to seeing this build, even if (or because!) it might seem like quaffing a Penfolds Grange Hermitage 1951 vintage :grimacing: :wine_glass:

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D,
Will be following your build adventure on a kit I’ve never seen before.

joel

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That is the version I have.
In your photo of step 14 you can see where there is an optional cutout behind the rear window for the bullet proof shield that can be raised. My version also came with a James Bond and Oddball figure, and extendable knock off spinners for cutting the other guy’s tired to shreds. Also has machine gun barrels. I’ve thought of replicating the scene from Skyfall where the car shoots up Bond’s childhood home. 1/35 .50 cal brass would be perfect for the 1/25 scale .30 cal brass that were scattered about the car. The only problem with my plan is that in Skyfall the license plate (BMT 216A) had silver letter and numbers on a black plate. The decal sheet has black on yellow and black on white.


I would think this kit (even though a re-box) might become an increasingly valuable investment staying in its box?

In my opinion kits need to be built. Eventually anyway. If you’re looking for an investment, try the stock market. My portfolio is up 102.21% since last year. Smart decisions during COVID helped. Few kits will get you that kind of return. Hence my half built Hillbilly Hauler with cardboard diorama. I hope it turns out better than the one from fifty two years ago…

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Yeah I know we’re not talking mega-bucks but wouldn’t you be interested if you picked something up for (say) 30 bucks & it turned out others were prepared to bid up to 200 or 300 for it in the box? I don’t know if that’s true in this case (hence my question) but look how vintage locos/rolling stock & die-cast automobiles have formed established collectors’ markets. Not forgetting the crazy market for anything Bond-related. If it isn’t already happening I’m sure it will happen with unusual/rare/quality plastic kits - unmade kits more likely to attract premium prices than completed ones & you’re the kind of guy who’d drive up the price exactly because you’d want to build it rather than anyone else :wink: :tumbler_glass:

Great subject D; the DB5 is such a beautiful car. Looking, at the body, the headlights looks like they could be a challenge.

The DBX(AM’s SUV) has a very cool feature, when you use the adaptive cruise control :smiley:

The prices, for vintage kit’s, can be quite heavy.

Vintage kit’s

I’m not a kit collector, nor do I have a large stash, maybe 24 kits all needing to see the bench before my time comes. Kits need to be built, as that’s what they were designed for. Many years ago when I was a member of my local IPMS chapter, we had a kit collector who bought up everything he could for years. Well, when his time eventually came, his massive collection was put up for sale and the better kits eventually made it to a few IPMS contests. Unfortunately, none sold for much, some eventually were given away or donated, but the rest went to the recycling center.

IMHO, plastics kits as I said were designed to be built, die cast cars were from the start slated to be collectables. Those plastic kits that have grown in value are few and far between. Most because their molds have long been remelted so they can’t be re-issued. And then their’s the old kits with existing molds that aren’t re-issued as the Corp bean counters just don’t feel that they will turn a profit worth the expense and time taken from molding a better kit. It’s just that simple.

joel

IIRC Revell back engineered their classic 1/48 UH-34 kit to reissue a few years ago after the molds where lost in a train or shipping accident or so the story goes.

Round2 is updating and rereleasing lots of old car kits.

Ryan,
I suppose that the original release would hold some additional value to other collectors, but builders would take a pass and buy the updated and then reissued kit.

joel

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Yep all fair points Joel, although I’d suggest the key in your 1st para is “many years ago” i.e. that stash was much younger then, collectability/value increases with age although no doubt still only for the rarities. Agreed that while the mo*lds still exist the only likely extra value would be for original boxings.

Re die-casts I’d draw a sharp distinction between the more recent deliberately marketed “Collectable” types, and the old Dinky/Corgi etc cars especially from the 50’s/60’s that were designed as toys to be played with – it’s the latter I was thinking of. For example, without me knowing about it my mother threw out a bunch of mine over 30 years ago because alas I’d long since left them behind at home. Amongst them was the gold Corgi Bond AM DB5 from 1965 – today in original packaging they’re exchanging hands in the U.K. for up to £500/US$700 and rising in A1 condition. So perhaps any serious collectors’ market for exceptional plastic kits may be 10 or 20 years hence, after a lot of us will have gone to that great workbench in the sky :tumbler_glass:

Tim,
For what it’s worth, sooner then later I’ll be working on a kit at that great workbench in the sky.

I’ve seen several videos about very serious collectors of Dinky/Corgi, and Matchbox toys. One guy actually has the entire run of Matchbox cars in just about mint condition. His proudest piece is the most valuable Matchbox car which I believe was some kind of California Beach van valued at over $5.000.

But on the other hand, I knew this guy who was putting all his money into large scale kits from aircraft to ships claiming that they’ll all be worth many times over what he paid for them. Well, he’s retired, and literally is struggling to sell what he can at prices way less then what he bought them for. The exception seems to be those 1/200 scale ships, but he had only one of each.

joel

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I made a start today, assembled the seats (3 parts each) and started going over the main body to remove a bit of flash around the edges and mould lines from the top of each of the 4 quarter panels.

Not much to show, but it’s good to get in amongst the styrene again!

Please don’t forget to check out the current Group Build Wheels of the Union Jack and Tricolore - Oct '21 to March '22 - Campaigns & Group Builds / Wheels of the Union Jack and Tricolore - KitMaker Network, and if you have a kit to fit the category, join in!

Cheers, D

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Strange that the decal set includes woodgrain dash details.

I can’t find a single reference image of a DB5 with a woodgrain dash. They are all black.

Looks like I might be doing some fancy cutting on this one!

Cheers, D

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D,
Nice start on those bucket seats. As for the wood grain dash, well they were very prevalent back in the day. I even added one (bought add on kit) for my MGB. I’m guessing the since the decal is the full instrument panel, you might be better off just cutting out the individual Instruments and Bezels, or kit bashing your own.

joel

That is a little odd. Not even the original DB5 from Fireball had wood - it was black as well. However, the metal shroud over the dash was the same as the body color.

As for the wood grain dash, well they were very prevalent back in the day.

My '49 Dodge had “wood grain” door panels and dash. It was in fact painted metal, but the effect was quite good.

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The mould seams were very prominent on the top edge of the front and rear quarter panels.


I spent some time with a ceramic scraper, sanding sticks and pads to remove them hopefully without impacting the profile too much, then gave the body a good shot of MS1500 Grey primer to check for imperfections (yes, there will be plenty!).


I also shot a pair of plastic spoons with Grey and Black primer to test the Zero Paints Silver Birch on and see which looks best. Once I have the body prep finished I can then re-surface it with my choice of primer colour.

Cheers, D

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D,
The prep work looks darn good. And since it’s the foundation to the entire paint and finish job, I’m 100% positive that you’ll get it to your usual high standards.

joel

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