Howdy y’all, seeking help from you model vets. I was experimenting with making a wash on this test model, and it started eating through the paint. Did I miss something? Acrylic Hataka paints for the camo, ABT502 oil paint mixed with tamiya lacquer thinner for the wash. I asked for enamel thinner as that’s what I saw online, but my local hobby shop assured me lacquer thinner would be fine.
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Your wash is too “hot” and eating the under layer of paint. Lacquer thinner is strong stuff. I would switch to mineral spirits or use acrylic paints thinned with water (add a couple drops of dish soap) for your wash.
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May wanna switch hobby shops as well, or at least whom you ask for advice there.
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As mentioned above Lacquer thinners are too hot 
in many cases.
Normally for applying oil washes, I like to use Mineral Spirits (mild) or Zippo Lighter fluid (medium).
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Thanks all. I did see zippo lighter fluid mentioned in the YouTube video I watched. I’ll definitely change it up and stay away from the lacquer thinner
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Another option is odorless thinner for oil paints, usually found in art stores. Also it is better if you added a layer of vanish between the paint and the wash. If I plan to use oils I use an acrylic varnish, if I plan to use acrylics for the wash I use enamel varnish. This way the thinner of the wash will not attack the varnish. Satin or gloss varnishes used, according to one’s liking.
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Odorless mineral spirits and lighter fluid (naphtha) are really similar. I use odorless mineral spirits from Mona Lisa.
I am shocked someone at your hobby store recommend lacquer thinner. Even airbrushing hardware store lacquer thinner to wet will craze plastic. It will soften and even dissolve styrene given enough time
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I’m not sure if the guy didn’t know what he was talking about or missed the part where I said acrylic base or what. I even asked for enamel thinner, and he said oh lacquer will work fine, even insisted on it. I was hesitant but figured “if you say so”. I believe he’s new so again not sure if he knew what he was doing or not. Frustrating regardless
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I once used a ‘low odour’ thinner but found it was too hot as well. I use a Mig thinner from AK Interactive and I’ve used ABT’s thinner too- never had a paint issue with them.
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@brosev123 Brock, how long had the base paint cured?
Sometimes that can be a factor too. Yesterday, I lifted some Mr Surfacer 1500 doing detail painting but it had only had ~24 hours to cure. I was surprised but with the humidity I probably shouldn’t have been.
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Whoever there told you that lacquer thinner would work for an enamel was has a serious rectal- cranial inversion, and obviously no experience using the stuff. Like the others have said, it’s way too hot and will eat right thru most every type of paint- enamel, acrylic, or lacquer. Basic pant thinner, mineral spirits, or turpentine on the other had will not mar acrylics or lacquers due to their dissimilar properties. And also, like said above, Mona Lisa Thinner, will work great. However it is so mild it barely works on enamels, only before they have had time to cure, being that it is formulated for oil paints.
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Good amount of time, couple weeks. Maybe about a month. It was a model I used for testing colors and got set aside, turned into my test dummy for the wash
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I returned to model building about 4 months back and switched to Vallejo water based acrylic paints. For oil washes I am thinning with Mona Lisa Odorless Mineral Spirits. For sealing before a wash, I am using Vallejo clear acrylic varnishes. Eleven models in, Mona Lisa Odorless Mineral Spirits have never attacked previous layers of paint, even when I flood a surface with Mineral Spirits for some techniques.
Some of those 11 models were ancient projects with a base coat of enamel paint. Vallejo clear acrylic varnishes also prevented Mineral Spirits from attacking those layers.
Hardware store Lacquer Thinner, Mr. Thinner, and Testors Liquid Cement pull up Vallejo paints, Vallejo varnishes, Badger primer, and Testors enamels almost instantly. This is actually useful in some situations but really bad mojo for a wash.
Water based acrylic washes are super benign and will work over anything. The soap additive recommended by Heavy Artillery breaks down water surface tension allowing acrylic washes to flow better and go where you want them to go. Without the soap, they leave spots and tide lines. This is the same thing that happens with some car wash products.
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Did you spray the Hataka acrylics and then do a gloss coat? If not the gloss coat generally helps with the laquer wash. I’ve done this a few times and know your pain.
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The most important take away here is what you did right: Trying out a new technique on a test piece, rather than on something you care about. That is arguably the most crucial step in the process.
I agree with those that recommended artist white spirit/mineral spirits for thinning oils. I’ve never had an issue with that.
I didn’t see it mentioned, but did you use any sort of primer before the camo? You can peel unprimed acrylics by simply giving them a stern look. Someone also mentioned a gloss coat on the primer. That helps protect your base coat, but also will enable your wash to flow more smoothly and dry more evenly.
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Good point!! And something that should have been mentioned earlier.
Trying the new skill out is half the battle in this hobby!
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Thanks! I was more worried about messing up the paint-to-thinner ratio and discovered the big blunder. This is why we use test models!
And I did do a primer under
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I did forget to put a gloss coat on the hull, but remembered and did it on the turret but still had some eating happen
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Thanks again all for the replies. The employee who told me lacquer thinner would work was a new guy. The owner has been in the industry for years and never steered me wrong, but wasn’t there that day. So I’m going back and hopefully he’ll be there. However I’m probably just going to get the Mona Lisa stuff as I see that recommended a lot
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I use lacquer thinner to clean paint from my airbrush. Does a good job of removing all paint.
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