I finally attempted to use the Archer dry transfers. They’re terrible!
I can’t get a single one to transfer correctly - this after explicitly following Archer’s “How To” videos on their website.
There’s not much more I can do until I get a set of water slide decals.
Mike
I’ve had some that work well, and some that dont…
In my experience, for easy surfaces, they work extremely well and are straightforward. For more complex surfaces, they require a fair bit of skill. Or, if you need to line a bunch of different ones up (like fabricating a serial number), well, I don’t have the skill to pull that off.
This was a nice flat, glossed side of the railcar.
I may have to take a set out of one of my other railcars (I’ll have to check as they may not be flatcars).
Could they be old? I recently purchased them, so I dunno. Frustrating.
Mike
I think age has something to do with it.
All the dry rub-down stuff tends to degrade over time. Some folk don’t try to use them, they scan them and print them onto white or clear decal film as appropriate. White only stuff is a problem, people used to talk about something called an ALPS printer but (given they were designed to print primitive graffiti onto cave walls) I don’t know if they’re still around…
Cheers,
M
I’ve been waiting, probably in vain, for a response from Sabre Models regarding purchasing/getting a set of decals for my railcar.
So, I think this is what I’m going to do: use HALF the decals from the Sabre kit and do one side of the Dragon railcar and use the other half on the Sabre kit. Ultimately, all of my railroad-type builds will be displayed an a rather long set of tracks incorporated into some form of a diorama. Whether that’s just the tracks and some basic groundwork or a building or two is unknown at this time. Anyway I do this, only one side of the railcars will be seen.
That’s my solution. 
Hopefully tomorrow I can start decaling the flatcar.
Mike
Sabre never responded, so I’m using half of the Sabre decals on the Dragon SSy.
The placement of some parts on the Dragon kit are different than Sabre’s which really isn’t a big deal.
There are just four more to put on where the deck uprights would be stored. Small dilemma though - the brackets are way too large to hope that Solvaset will let them settle so I have two options; cut out a part of the decal (and hope it stays stable as I put them in place, or remove the brackets, place the decals and reinstall the brackets. Hmmmm. 
Mike
Decals are done! (well, the only side that’ll get done). I’ll reinstall the hooks that I removed and shoot a picture very soon. After that, it’s about the weathering. 
Mike
Jesper, why did you cut out the bottom? Welcome to the show….
Mike
Another GB I totally forgot about 
Gang, enjoying your work.
Thought I would be working and posting pictures couple months ago. How can I make some corny military and railroad reference to my situation? My man cave model den melted down and gridlocked as tight as the Union Pacific in 1997. And I wrenched my back over Thanksgiving - SWMBO’s Christmas decoration boxes and tubs administered unto me a M-kill.
Hope to get gluing and painting soon. Until then at least I can enjoy what you guys are doing.
Here’s kind of a side-note question about rail gauges.
Probably 100% of my 1/35th railroad rails are Dragon. I plan to build a single base with two sets of rails, and I’d like one to have one of the “dead end” devices. I recall one or two that were resin, though I cannot recall the manufacturer(s). MiniArt has one, but it’s “European gauge.” AK also has one but does not indicate gauge.
Does that line up with Trumpeter’s track?
Or, would someone have the measurements of European gauge from center of rail top to center of rail top?
I did just find one from Black Ops but is labeled “Modern.” May still work(?) The ties are certainly modern, but the dead end looks similar.
Thoughts?
Mike
There was a thread on this in the past. Can’t find it - I guess I don’t know what to search for. I have the miniart european dead-end assembled, and I’m pretty sure I have some trumpeter track. I’ll search tomorrow and let you know.
Ah, I think I found it:
Thank you Phil!
Looks like I’m going to be good to go!
Mike
Sorry for the late answer - the cut out is so I can install the MGs after painting is completed.
First base coat went on yesterday. More to follow soon 
