Hi all, using PE means I have to use superglue and I’d appreciate any ideas on which one works best for you.
I’ve been using LePages instant and Slow Set glues but clogging is a problem. That said the “squeeze the sides” bottles are OK.
Any advice on type, application, tips and tricks would be greatly appreciated.
TIA.
Den
I’ve been using Bob Smith Industries stuff for ages. For no particular reason than that’s what I’ve always used and it’s what’s stocked where I shop. Probably no better or worse than LePage though.
I squeeze out a drop or two into an old jam jar lid and either use a toothpick or occasionally just dip whatever I’m gluing into the puddle.
Also recently discovered the joys of accelerator and debonder.
I’ve tried AK’s black CA (has rubber in it) but wasn’t a fan. Took too long to dry for me and I didn’t really find it gave a superior bond.
As an alternative for PE, I’ve got a big tub of Liquitex clear gel medium. It’s slow drying, but it gives you some working time and dries clear and strong.
Yeah I am looking for an alternative to super glue. Drys too fast or dries too slow. A bottle will be 90 % wasted as it hardens before you can use it all.
I use Satellite City super glue and find the same thing. Good luck using the whole bottle before it goes bad.
I use a broken dental instrument or even a straightened out paper clip as an applicator. I put a little puddle of glue on a left over 6x6 glazed ceramic tile. That way I’m not squirting glue out of the bottle and all over my model.
BTW those tiles make great paint pallets for enamels and a safe surface for soldering.
Be quick when opening and closing the CA bottle. Place a dab of glue on a tile as mentioned above. Never glue directly from the tip.
I find these brushes very handy for dabbing CA Kicker.
In addition, I remove used-up brushes and use the tips as applicators. Sometimes I whittle them down for more precise CA application. HTH.
—mike
The bane of many modelers. However, like just about everything else in our hobby there is a learning curve. I am much more at ease using CA now than even just a few years ago. someone mentioned the black rubberized variety and they didn’t care for it. I became an almost instant convert. I like it because of the black you can actually see it better which for me helps with placement. It does have a slightly longer drying time but for me that allows time to ensure I get it right ( 
).
I like this method and easy clean up.
Thanks Mike! That’s a great find! Micro-Mark sells these for about 10 times that price! I just ordered some from Amazon.
How strong does it stick? Can you post a picture of the bottle?
Has anyone used the FLEXY 5K CA PE from vms-supplies?
I avoided super glue. I only ever used a bit before the whole container went off. 12 months i got a bottle of Roket Max. Used 1/3rd of the bottle and its still like new. I squeeze a few drops onto a peice of aluminium. Then use a tooth pick. I always push a piece of wire into the bottle nozzle as soon as i squeeze out the drops.
I tend to avoid using Superglue, dries too fast and too dirty for my skills, and usually the bottle dries with 80% still inside… I prefer acrylic resin like Gator Grip or Ammo Ultraglue.
When I have to use it, I put a drop on a bottle cap, for some reason it seems it lasts longer -I can use the same drop for well over 15 minutes, taking a bit with a wire or a cut needle.
@SdAufKla how strong would you say? Maybe not the best for holding up a large resin nose but good enough for most pe have seen.
Thanks a lot!
I always have problems with superglue: if I need it for a long time, it dries quickly, if I want it quickly, then it dries for a long time. Best of all, he glues his fingers, everything else is worse. It feels like she’s sensible, but nasty.
Yes, I found it! Not cheap!
But we call it “Acrylic paint thickener”. It is right? There is also matte. You mean what’s the difference?
I think it is very similar to thickener but I will defer to others to know more. I think Mike has said matte can be used but gloss is what I have used. Good alternative to Gator Grip and cheaper by volume. Just not as messy for me to use. Drying time are good but you might need a jig for some longer drying parts.
I’ve just started using the black flex y by VMs.found it takes a lil time to set,it sands well,takes a couple applications as a filler just a drop or two on a card and work time is about 20 minutes,foun out by accident when I glue the card to my palm
Excellent thread and I’ve learned alot from the various posters. Ive got some Gator Grip thin and I’ll give that a try. The Liquitex sounds promising too, so maybe I can leave off trying to master CA.
Thanks to all for posting.
Seems like it might fit with this thread, but I am planning to build a ship model from Iron Shipwrights of my brother’s destroyer. The kit is all resin and while I don’t mind using CA for the PE and small thing, this has some big chunks of superstructure and such. So, I’m asking if any of these other glues I’m seeing mentioned here can be used for resin models and in particular larger pieces. Also, how should the resin be cleaned before gluing and painting.
I know many use dishwashing detergent and water. I use wither denatured or just isopropyl alcohol. But that’s many prep for gluing. Painting… I just spray with primer. I’m lazy.
For large pieces I use 2 part epoxy. But once it’s on, it’s on forever.
I am going to try the liquitex gel as I’ve gone through a bunch of different superglues. I’ve gotten both better at using it and a lot more comfortable with it, but it’s still not great. Someone asked about the VMS flexy CA glue. I tried it and went back to the BSI glues as it didn’t seem either as strong or more workable. I hate to say that as I like everything else I’ve ever bought from VMS a LOT!
The one “trick” I’ve had success with is to spread the CA glue very thin on a work surface THEN dip the edge that needs the glue in that as you end up with a very small amount of CA glue which is the key I think?
