Thanks G, it was nice to get the primer on it after the various little set backs. That was another hurdle over … Have started on the running gear and will get that finished then start on the hull once the boz plates are on and the tracks and wheels are semi hidden away … out of sight, out of mind 
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Hi Johnny
Completely forgot about the sight, but have now added it
Funny thing about the clamp, the Haya Chief comes with the early version
The 3D Print upgrade set has the later version
But it had its problems
So I added some bits
I think you may be able to do similar with sheet metal - from a Coke can or similar?
Mal
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I can honestly live with it how it is Mal, I have other builds I need to be getting on with now, so as its primed I will continue with the painting phase and then some detail painting after before the final weather. The few areas I have been able to improve I am happy with how they turned out so wont be going into it for more corrections.
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Not much to update but have been doing all the wheels and they are now painted with the rubber rims done.
Ended up using Tamiya dark yellow and tyre rubber as the AK paint reacted with the primer, which was a new rattle can type I’d not used before. Lesson learned.
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Got the base coat of sand yellow down. Ended up using XF 60 with some white.
I genuinely thought I had nailed all the little air holes on the turret and hull, at least to the naked eye… How wrong was I …once the base coat was on, about a million new micro air holes appeared… I was so filled with joy… Not !!!
Anyway, will let that all fully dry, then do the tracks and fit all the running gear then Boz plates before I do the green…
Keep smiling
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…the gift that keeps on giving…
If only I could pick lottery numbers this easy…
On the upside, I was cleaning out a few items for my Mother in Law and came across a sheet of Rub on Lettering in her throw away box… and they are the perfect size for the 24C I need for the ARRV… Now to see how 40 year old Pressier lettering fares…
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This Stillbrew is staying as is Peter… I would die of old age before I could get rid of these holes.
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Nice base coat. For the holes you can some white product used to mask typo mistakes on hand written documents.
Olivier
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Just a thought - though I appreciate the time required - Mr Dissolved Putty might be a solution:
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Thanks Olivier and @BootsDMS - may try the the correcting fluid on some of the more obvious micro holes … the putty isn’t something I have in my arsenal at the moment Brian, but I may looking at getting some next time I do a supply run
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Roger that John; I highly recommend it. I use it for all the small filling jobs, and especially on figures where it usually hides all my errors! Sometimes more than one coat is necessary. Cellulose thinners required to clean whatever you use to apply it with (for me an old paintbrush).
Correcting fluid (such as Tippex) is also very useful, as Olivier pointed out; I wasn’t aware of it still being available; God, how I relied on that back in the day!
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Oh God. Air bubbles are like Covid - just when you think you’ve got them all and it’s gone away -
Try the correcting fluid first John, you’ve got too much into this one to quit now. Just give it a go. The base coat looks fantastic.
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My thoughts exactly. I looked up the local office supplies website and sure enough, it still exists!
“Aaaah, Tippex” (Homer Simpson-type doughnuts drool).
Just for the historical record (not I’m fairly sure, that anyone will be producing a tome entitled “A history of British Military Clerical Support in Formation and other HQs” anytime soon) but back in the day I used to have 3 colours of Tippex on my desk to assist my typing efforts: White - obviously. Yellow - for Confidential reports - that is annual personal reports, the form being produced on yellow paper, and Pink for those documents which were devised for the enemy’s plans on exercises and always printed on pink paper, thus becoming known as “The Pink”; this was to readily identify such a document (obviously being key to any exercise) and to enable control of such information. In actuality, as most documents required a comprehensive distribution, typing was undertaken on stencils known colloquially as “skins” and these were then run off on duplicators, mainly as I recall, from the firm Gestetner, so that was when the pink paper was used, leaving no requirement for corrections using pink Tippex; it’s just that I had some.
I must just add that whilst these were useful for the odd mistake, RAOC Staff Clerks were expected to have high typing standards and speeds, and accuracy was, rightfully in the days of the manually produced typewritten word, paramount.
There you go Folks, another snippet of generally unrecorded military history; you heard it here first! What’s that? You’ve dozed off?
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You can still get through the system but under a different name.
Official policy is that it not to be used on any documents with Official or above.
I worked in a Bank. All memo’s had to be done in duplicate, white for the file, pink for circulation for reading. Typed with carbon paper used between. We had Tippex in the storeroom, but we had a Senior Typist that was so accurate I didn’t think she ever cracked the seal on the bottles. When she was on holiday, and we had to do our own typing, some of the lads went through buckets of it…
In my second civilian job after getting out of the US military, I was responsible for the supplies closet, in which we had 5 or 6 different colors of Liquid Paper, along with thinner for when they got a little crusty. As computers were Wang green-screen terminals at the time, I suspect it was the high point for paper-based clerical supplies - late 1980’s.
That base colour really looks the part John, and it helps pull everything together nicely, excellent paint job, 
.
G 
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Thanks G, I was pretty happy with how it sprayed once I had toned it down with some white. Once it’s all done a final wash will take it down a bit more hopefully.
Right I haven’t been idle, just sorting the Dio base out for the Panther.
Started on the tracks tonight. Now on some things I can be a little lazy, like out of sight - out of mind …
So due the the Boz plates being fitted only certain sections of track will be visible,so they are the only bits being painted.
I have painted those with MIG rust tracks. Once that dries I will do the pads as normal with the Tamiya rubber and maybe a few a very dark grey. Once they are all dry I will slip on a medium black wash to take the edge off the rust colour and show the original black track in some areas…
Once that’s done I will use the AK steel pigment on the idler wheels and metal to metal parts on the sprockets then get everything fitted and the boz plates on.
Then it will be green cam time …
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