@metalhead85 Thank you. In truth, I am not happy with it. Factory applied Jagdpanzer 38 camouflage had very clean edges. It is somewhat amazing that factory workers could produce such meticulous paint jobs given the war situation. However, I subsequently found pictures of Jagdpanzer 38s with ‘hard but rough edge’ camouflage closely resembling my model. Therefore, I actually did okay. My plan is to build another Jagdpanzer 38, trying for even more precision in the hard edge pattern.
@BringupthePIAT Thank you. In baseball terms, I feel like the Jagdpanzer 38 was a single and the T30 a triple.
With regards painting, we are both at about the same place–journeymen striving to become masters. Exposure to and trying different painting systems helps us.
I highly suggest reading the painting system used by Wade (Armor_Buff). Specifically, he uses a oil paint tinting technique that produces very interesting and pleasing results.
With regards to my painting workflow, it is very much in motion because I constantly try new things but this is what I did for the T30.
T30 upper surfaces:
- Airbrush: Black Primer: Cover everything including tight places
- Airbrush: Vallejo Russian Air Force Green: Cover everything but do not bother with tight places
- Airbrush: Vallejo Russian Air Force Green (85%) + Vallejo Ivory (15%): Broad coverage mottling (Mix is approximate)
- Airbrush: Vallejo Russian Air Force Green (70%) + Vallejo Ivory (30%): Medium and small coverage mottling (Mix is approximate; do not over lighten the model)
- Airbrush: Vallejo Gloss Clear only where decals go
- Decals
- Airbrush: Vallejo Matte Clear over decals and whatever
- Paint tools, tow cables, and other such things with Vallejo paints.
- Very thinned oil paint: Winsor and Newton Umber: get into channels and corners (Try to keep the surface level with the Earth; thinned paint running down a side will pool and do unwanted things; move thinned paint around as needed after most of the thinner evaporates; remove excess paint)
- Oil paint thinner: Flood the rest of the surface (This pushes thinned paint away from flat spaces and into channels and corners)
- Very thinned oil paint: Buff, Light Mud, Umber, and Yellow Ocher: Apply as little dots in random places: Let it dry a bit: Move it around (This is a technique Wade uses extremely well)
- Oil Paint: Buff, Light Mud, Umber, and Yellow Ocher: Apply tiny streaks with a toothpick: After applied, work in the streak with an old brush: Move it around until the result looks good (This is random dings, dirt spots, grime, smudges, and worn paint.)
- Oil Paint: Buff, Light Mud, and Ocher: Dry brush onto high surfaces (Be careful not to use too much Buff because it looks super bright in photographs.)
- Airbrush: Vallejo Matte Clear over entire model: Do not worry about hard to reach spots–a light coat is usually enough
T30 lower surfaces: As above with three additional steps to simulate ground in dirt
4a) Airbrush: Vallejo Umber: Medium mottling
4b) Airbrush: Vallejo Dark Mud: Light mottling
4c) Airbrush: Vallejo Light Mud: Light mottling
These colors simulate ground in dirt from dark/wet to light/dry. Many different products and procedures can produce the same sort of effect but they all vary in appearance. This specific procedure is artistic, not realistic. (In my opinion, realistic is easier.)
T30 Tires:
- Airbrush: Black Primer
- Airbrush: Panzer Gray streaking
- Airbrush: Lightened Panzer Gray or some other lighter gray as streaking
(Drive Sprockets, Idler Wheel hubs, Return Roller hubs, and Road Wheel hubs use the lower surfaces procedure.) - Airbrush: Vallejo Matte Clear over entire wheel–a light coat is usually enough
T30 Tracks:
- Airbrush: Black Primer: Cover everything including tight places
- Airbrush: Vallejo Umber: Medium mottling
- Airbrush: Vallejo Dark Mud: Light mottling
- Airbrush: Vallejo Light Mud: Light mottling
- Very thinned oil paint: Winsor and Newton Umber: get into channels and corners (Try to keep the surface level with the Earth; thinned paint running down a side will pool and do unwanted things; move thinned paint around as needed after most of the thinner evaporates; remove excess paint)
- Very thinned oil paint: Buff, Light Mud, Umber, and Yellow Ocher: Apply as little dots in random places: Let it dry a bit: Move it around (This is a technique Wade uses extremely well)
- Oil Paint: Buff, Light Mud, and Ocher: Dry brush onto high surfaces (Be careful not to use too much Buff because it looks super bright in photographs.)
- Airbrush: Vallejo Matte Clear over entire model: Do not worry about hard to reach spots–a light coat is usually enough
- Paint: Vallejo Dark Steel: Dry brush on outer track raised faces
Put the model together.
Touch up painting.
Maybe another quick Matte Clear coat in problem spots.
Gloss Clear to simulate lenses. Real lenses are better.
Probably forgot something. 
I lean into the airbrush much harder than most model builders (and will soon lean into it even harder).
