Sort of yes, sort of no. Really, it all comes down to a few things: how well you program the slicer settings, how well optimized the 3D file is, and the technical specifications of the printer you get. I have a 6k resolution printer. By that very nature, it can produce better detailed prints than a 2k or 4k printer because it has greater number of and smaller voxels than the other printers. If I had an 8k printer, it would produce even finer detail. By that token, Phrozen would have the edge with their Sonic Mini 8k, Sonic Mighty, and Sonic Mega 8k. But all the resolution in the world won’t help you if you don’t have good slicer settings. The slicer you choose is important but not necessarily as important as you think. I’ve used Lychee slicer and Chitubox. I frankly prefer Chitubox because I find it easier to use and has more support settings available to all users without a paid subscription. Chitubox does support most other consumer printers that are commonly found including Elegoo, Phrozen, Creality, Peopoly, and Wanhao, among others. Lychee does support more I believe but really there’s nothing you can do in Lychee that you can’t do in Chitubox, and vice-versa. Lychee is more refined though.
On the slicer settings aspect, you need to ensure that the cure time is correct. Too long would result in overexposure of the resin and the loss of detail. Too short would result in resin that’s at best very soft and at worst would fail to print. The burn-in or base layers are also very important. These are layers that are exposed for long periods of time to ensure that the entire print sticks to the build plate. I use a base time of 60 seconds for these layers.
So you have the exposure settings dialed in but after it exposes a layer, it has to go to the next one. So the entire build plate, models and all, has to lift off of the vat film (called a FEP) and then descend back in to the resin. The lift heights and lift and retract speeds come into play here. You can’t really go too high, although then that’s wasted time, but you can definitely go too low and fast. Having a too low lift height would result in a print that hasn’t pulled away from the FEP completely. The print would retract down still attached to the FEP resulting in uncured or missing layers. Lifting too fast would rip the layers off of the FEP instead of the FEP gently pulling away. This could result in layer separation and, again, uncured or missing layers. Having too slow lift and retract speeds isn’t too bad, but that wastes time and lengthens the print time when you could have used a faster speed that would yield the same results and give you a finished print in half the time.
You also need to make sure that the build plate is leveled correctly. On cheaper consumer printers, like the ones from Elegoo, Anycubic, Phrozen, etc., the leveling process is completely manual. On more expensive printers, the build plate might come pre-calibrated. On professional machines that can cost thousands upon thousands of dollars, like the ones from Formlabs, there could be an automatic leveling process.
All this being said, I have an Anycubic Photon Mono X 6k and it’s been serving me well since June or so of last year. I’ve had to replace the LCD screen as part of regular maintenance but I’ve had some problems with it that can be attributed to user-error. If I had to start over, I might want to try the Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8k. If it was released when the Mono X 6k was, I’d also probably go for the Anycubic Photon D2. Being a DLP printer, there’s no LCD screen that would need to be replaced at around 2,000 hours like an MSLA printer would require. Pretty much most consumer grade printers that you will be looking into will be MSLA printers with the exception of the Anycubic Photon Ultra and D2. I don’t believe any other company has yet released a true DLP consumer grade printer.