they aren’t horrendously tight… think they have added an extra link in the moulding… will see how they go
Looking good so far! Should be OD inside & out, as it is open-topped.
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might also be about right for a Korean War M7. I think Academy later came out with the British version of the M7. Lastly, I’d think you might be able to use a left over track set from the Asuka or Tamiya kits.
gary
so front glacis completed have moved the lights up, added the spare track boxes… started to look at stowage - does anyone have any recommendations for what can simulate the cable - in scale is it 1.5mm thick (with a link?) - the photo I am working form has it draped round the light but obviously not stiff like plastic…
next stop will be to start the side modifications (handles, tarp support brackets, wading armour
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Copper wire pulled out of the power cord for some appliance.
The cords for computers/electronics are often made from cheaper/stiffer metal so they may not be usable. Softer power cord often means more individual strands twisted together.
Edit: Forgot to mention that copper (and brass) can be softened by annealing (heating with a flame, small candle or cigarette lighter)
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At a local craft chain box store they sell Beadalon wire that is already stranded.
https://www.beadalon.com/products/shop_by_product_wire.asp
I am sure you have something similar over there, might be case of seeing in person to find one rigid and flexible to meet your needs.
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For cables I use brass picture-hanging wire from the local craft store - it tends to come in several thicknesses/strengths. Note some types have brass strands wrapped around a steel wire core, so will do bad things to nice wire clipper blades…
It should, unless they make one for the M3. I like the Eureeka stuff!
Ken
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thanks all, got some brass picture wire (should do a few other kits)…
4 hours see the first side done… happy how close to the photo it looks (well still need to add some bolts to the supports)…
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ready for first round of paint (well primer to check how bad my sanding is)…
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s’gone green… AK Interactive OD modulation set (ran out of Dark Base tho so will need some for the outside)
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and now it is built… well mostly… need to add rear baskets (not sure if I should try to remake from mesh or just use the plastic with patterned mesh) sort stowage out for the frton, add rear fuel can racks on the rear fenders and consider rear stowage…
of course, some school boy errors have appeared (forgot the seats before I built the superstructure and had the spare track racks on the wrong way round - now removed…
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A lot of them lacked those baskets. I’d rather do without than use the plastic ones. The PE ones by Eduard are quite good though.
That rope looks good.
I have some mesh I could use, may try to build one tomorrow… will need to look for some reference photos
found a great photo of a rear deck full laden, and yes no mesh boxes… going to attempt something like that…
the one for this build:
started working on front and rear stowage… not sure if I need to add more to the rear, plus some boxes/fuel cans elsewhere… paper shaped with VMS PaperShaper…
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Very nicely packed, love that great rack on the front!! 
thanks… more work on stowage… stuck the individual parts together (I hope) added the first of 2 fuel can racks on rear fenders and added the gun tarps (hopefully they will look better once painted) - again all done using acrylic binder (a.k.a. VMS Paper Shaper)
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just wondered if acrylic binder could help strengthen paper to make home made stencils… tried with a star (so printed & cut out star then brushed binder over edges)… doesn’t lie 100% flat but with sponge you can get something… not sure how sharp these markings should be but sponge application can create faded (don’t think it would stand up to air spraying)…
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