MikeyBugs 3D Design and Printing Ideas

Awesome. I will be taking a few, probably 6-8 pallets and some loose ones. Keep me posted.

Thanks for starting this thread. Count me in, too.

1 Like

Which process gives better results and definition; orange resin, or gray resin? I’ve noticed that orange resin is more brittle than the gray. Just curious. :thinking:
:smiley: :canada:

Ok, long reply incoming:

It all depends on the brand, the brand’s formulation, and the type of resin. Color does play a part too - the lighter or clearer the resin, the deeper the UV light is absorbed so the shorter the cure times have to be (except on one of my printers which likes to be an annoying finicky bi…). The darker the resin, the shallower the absorption so the longer the cure times. With monochrome LCD screens, exposure times are quite short already but the same principle applies.

There’s different types of resin: engineering resin, detail resins, casting resins, dental resins, “tough” or “resilient” resins, rubber-like resins, and a whole bunch more that I don’t know of or forgot about. Engineering and “tough” resins are good for functional prototypes with engineering having a focus on accuracy and workability while “tough” has high structural rigidity and hardness. Rubber-like resins do exactly that: they are very flexible and imitate the qualities of rubber. Detail resins tend to have low viscosity so they can flow more easily and produce higher detail but are also more fragile and less resilient than engineering resins.

I personally use Wanhao Water Washable Gray, Anycubic Water Washable+ Gray, and Anycubic Water Washable+ Clear. I’ve also used AmeraLabs water washable black and eSun water washable gray. From my experience, I don’t like eSun or the Anycubic resins. I have yet to try their 8k resin which, supposedly, provides very high detail definition on their 8k and 12k printers (I have the 8k and its plenty detailed for my liking) but from what I’ve read it falls somewhere between a marketing gimmick and slight overstatement. The Wanhao resin works very well for my uses and so far I haven’t had a complaint about the print quality I get with it. I prefer the Wanhao because it looks like the plastic we all use and feels and acts like the casting resin a lot of us have used. The AmeraLabs is also very good resin but I haven’t used it in a few years. The resin I still have is probably useless goop by now.

I’ve never used any orange resin, and I don’t know what brand and type of resin is used, so I can’t really speak to the qualities of that particular resin.

About the brittleness, that’s one reason why I free all my parts from the supports before curing and shipping. Once cured, the resin becomes more brittle and much less forgiving to bends and cuts than the pre-cured resin. Depending on what’s being shipped, I might send pre-cured parts but I always free them from supports. I don’t have a very high output in general so I can afford the huge time sink that it is.

And now for something completely different…

On Gino’s advices, I scaled the chain down by about half. I was worried it wouldn’t print well but I think it actually came out pretty well.

(no, I didn’t model the belt like that, it warped after it finished printing)


Got most of the 120mm ammo cans done. Just need the top and the straps.


Very nice.

1 Like

Continuing on some top work.


The canvas water bucket showed up at the Oshkosh, WI EAA airshow this past week (at the end of July 2023). Here are some examples of restored jeeps with the water bags attached.


So I do need to head back to the MAA to rescan the open water bucket. It came out terrible last time.

Oh, I forgot I can’t scan a bucket that’s full of water. Aside from not being able to scan it in the first place, the museum staff aren’t too keen on filling it with water.




Oh no the collapsed bucket came out fine. Especially the one strapped onto the jerry can. The open one I need to work on.

You mean the fully extended one? My bad. :sweat_smile:

Finished some hedgehogs last night. Surprisingly didn’t take too long. I’m printing them right now.

1 Like

Hi Mike! Just wanted to let you know the M1083A1P2 parts arrived safely on Friday Aug 4. So far all looks good! Many thanks for your good efforts,- Stuart


Gas can in rack:

Mike, this is something that has bugged me since I first entered armor modeling many years ago. (So it is NOT a criticism of your work!)

The rack for the gas can should not fit snugly or smoothly to the can, There should be more separation between the rack and the can. Plus the can does not sit uniformly inside the rack. This entire area needs to be a spaced and indented lip rather than just a stair step in the CAD rendering.

Every mold maker since the beginning of injection molding just makes the rack simply a smooth stair step out from the can.

I know this is a small thing but if you were to add this detail to your offering I feel your product would then exceed the quality and level of detail of every other such item ever made in this industry

Best Regards
Mike K.


1 Like

Oh yeah, I already have that modeled in. I can grab a picture of it later today.


Any more progress on the 120mm rounds pallet?

1 Like

Yeah, the designs finished, I just need to modify it to make it printable. The top cover is giving me problems so I’m thinking this might have to come in 3 parts: the pallet, round casings, and top cover. The casings and top cover could be combined so I’ll test that out too.


I finally got around to getting a picture of the jerry can rack.

Also a new helmet and .50 cal can that I recently bought. Yes, I have plans for the helmet… After I get it restored. The paint on the liner and the helmet is chipping and deteriorating. I may replaced the canvas cover because it’s literally falling apart at the seams.

And here’s the Czech Hedgehog and PA116 case. The individual cases print very well. It’s the stack that’s the problem.


The 120mm case looks great. Can’t wait to see one of the stacks.