Thanks Frenchy. I’ve sent an email to MiniArt asking to buy just one sprue. I will see what their response is. It’s not the end of the world. I was looking at a diorama so I can burry the tracks somewhat. That’s actually why I got caught. I wasn’t so concerned about the bottom and basically threw the pads on. But it’s too big of a gap to be all my fault. Is it? Nah!
bruce
They started selling direct only.
HTH
Given all the issues reported with the tractor tracks, I don’t think it is your fault.
Frenchy that’s covering too many mistakes. 
Guys I’m not say MiniArt has made a mistake. The instructions call for 36 links per side. I have the 36 and that’s exactly what MinArt give you. Not one spare. I’ve counted the pads on both sides. Yup I’ve put them all on. No lost ones.
On the image above I’m short one pad. ie 36+1. On the right side.
On the left side I have the same number of pads but come up way short. 3 pads. (Taking into account the half pads).
I removed the out of align pads because they annoyed me and installed them again. Do the job right!!
I’ve examined both sides. Each pad has 4 tiny holes that go into 4 tiny pins on the links. It’s almost impossible to know if the pins are in the holes. Mr Cement melts them! So I guesstimated each location based on the links. Now on the curved ends I tried to keep the gap close enough so the pads wouldn’t lockup as they rolled around. As they do on the prototype. And there, I think, I came unstuck. Because I installed the links first then the pads I erred on a gap that was too small. In doing so I’ve missed the locating pins and over the length of both curved ends I’ve come up short with the number of pads. User error!!
Answer? Either be very very very careful and make up the complete tracks before installing. Making sure the exact distance from the drive sprocket to the idler wheel. Or be very very very careful doing it the way I did it. Making sure you are locating the pads on the pins and ignore what appear to be large gaps between the pads.
Next time? Well next time I would do it the same way. But be much more exact in locating the idler wheel and the pads. ie move the idler wheel in about 2mm. Better to have a bit of slack. And then ignore the gaps and glue the pads right where you think the pins are.
Would I build another one? Hell yeah I’ve enjoyed it very much and looking forward to the rest of the build.
bruce
Just an update.
I emailed MiniArt and told them the problem and I offered to purchase the 1 relevant sprue. At 4.00pm our time. (Australia). I received a reply from MiniArt at 9.00pm our time. Great service. They apologized for the issue and are sending the parts asap.
10 out of 10 for service.
bruce
Thanks for the heads up - If I ever pick up on my build of this kit - just about to the track assembly stage - it will be good info to have .Forewarned is forearmed.
Bruce this is a monumental build parts-wise and you are doing an excellent job. Your finishing skills are outstanding also. It’s nice to know that Miniart is one of the few manufacturers with a responsive and polite customer service department. That’s important in these times.
Guys overnight I received another email from MiniArt. I offered to purchase the single sprue for more plates. They are sending 2 sprues. No charge.
Excellent service.
bruce
Not much work today. Exhaust pipe and starter handle. Just sat the roof on and posed the blade.
Looking more like a dozer now.
I’m procrastinating on the weathering. I want to figure out a diorama first so the weathering matches the ground etc.
bruce
Looks fantastic! I’m sure you’ll come up with something for that blade to plow through!
—mike
Wait. If anyone is following along I’ve made a mistake waayyy back at post 39. I replaced the tiny parts with a rod. Well I just tried to thread a cable through the pulley and that rod is in the way. Oooops.
Plan X is now being devised. First step was to undo some glue joints. That worked but I had to cut out the rod. But it got complicated. Plan X is to not even try to use one cable all the way. But rather glue cable segments. Hopefully there with be enough dirt and grease to hide my cockup. 
images when I finish.
bruce
Not a lot happening. I have a lot of sick days.
Almost finished the build. Then the weathering etc etc.
I’ve had a few goes at putting the cables on. Now let me warn anyone thinking about this kit to preplan and pre wire as you go. The pullys simply don’t allow you to thread the cable trough. Don’t ask me how I know. I’ve got it ‘almost’ right only to have to pull it to pieces again. Plan X is to assemble. Then glue in short pieces of cable.
Also be very very careful about keeping everything straight and square. Ignore the images in the instructions. They are wrong and therefore so is my build.
If folks are interested I’ll put up a long post from my notes.
Edit - I just wasn’t happy with the thread. I painted it and it still looked fuzzy. It never held its shape very well either. So I started again. I had to remove the pulley block which required a 10# hammer!! 
Pulled the thread and binned it. Now coming from model railroading you would think I had a stack of suitable wire. Nope. So into the parts draws and I dug out a roll of 34 gauge wire. Then twisted it and twisted it. Bingo. Looks good enough and holds it’s shape. A bit of superglue and I’m back in business. (looking at the image there isn’t enough twists/strands. But I figure a lot of grease will fix that. Besides the image is WAY bigger than the wire).
bruce
Ok a few hours doing a few bits and pieces. I’ve decided this will be as far as I’m going until I start on the diorama as that will determine what the colour of the mud and dust will be.
Sorry about the crappy phone images. I’ll get the big camera out later.
I hope this has been an interesting build for you. I dreaded it after everything I read on the internet. But it wasn’t any where near as bad/hard as some would have you believe. Yes some small parts. Yes vague instructions. But what’s new about that?
I logged 55 hours on the build. yes I’m slow!!
I’ve enjoyed it so much I’m ordering the army version.
Let me know if you want the blow by blow oops moments.
bruce
Nice idea. I ran into that same problem with that kit. Hid it in the dirt…
Yes please! More of the sordid low and dirty details 
Many other model builders will benefit from your learning experience 
It’s a beauty Bruce! You’ve done an incredible job here.
Looks great, look forward to seeing the diorama.
I think many used Tamiya as the gold standard. Which if that is the bar then yes Miniart tractors are not that and do fall a bit short. I think many are not used too as many fittly bits as Miniart likes to add. Add a micro saw to the toolbox and it will be ok. I also think the track miscalculation is the worst aspect of the kit. Hard for a modeler to truly over come it. You have your nice option, ordering more from Miniart or finding some type of replacement are the options.
I would like to hear about the oops, as I had a tractor at one time and will probably get another again in the future. Just too nice looking not too.
Minart kit #38022 build summary.
For a few decades I was a model railroader. Still am. Then suffering burnout I went looking on the internet for some inspiration and came across all the wonderful 1/35 scale dioramas. So as they say the rest is history.
One of my first kits purchased was MinArts kit #38022, ( I had a mini stash!!). So onto the web and did some research. I soon found that MiniArt’s Bulldozers came with a reputation. So for 12 months I avoided the Bulldozer. Then it got the better of me. So here I am finished and wanting to share my experience with this kit. One YouTube, 5 part, build had issues. It’s a different version and I never had the same issues. But it certainly gave me much to think about. (Will Pattison’s build on YouTube).
First let my address a common belief in MiniArt’s “bad plastic”. I’ve now built several MiniArt kits. Never had an issue with the plastic. I believe they change suppliers and problem solved. Maybe some older kits are still on shelves. But I’ve had no issues.
There are several Bulldozers in MinArt’s catalogue. Kit #38022 is an early cable civilian version. Yellow of coarse.
So some thoughts on the build. I’ll list step numbers for those that maybe considering this kit.
Overall the instructions are typical of most kits. I found them no better or worse than the likes of RFM. Read way ahead and do a lot of dry fitting. No written instructions I guess because we all talk different languages.
The engine has a LOT of small parts. But by itself would make a great model.
Step 12. Part C82. I didn’t glue this in place because it needs a specific location later on.
Step 14. Make sure part C73 is vertical or you’ll be sorry later.
Step 16. Make sure part B29 is vertical. It’s the starter shaft for the pony motor and the handle needs to line up with the hole in the hood.
Step 17. C17 is the only part in the kit I broke getting it off the sprue.
Step 21. Make sure the back of the transmission goes well into the hole in part B17. Sub assembly from step 20. I filed the hole a wee bit bigger.
Step 25. PE11 has to go through a hole in part B23. Open up this hole as it’s too small for PE11 to fit through.
Step 29. Note the orientation of the slot on part C58. At this stage you will find out if you have everything in place as all the levers need to go through the floor. Don’t be tempted to glue all the floor together first. It wont work!
Steps 33 through to 37. (42 to 46). Take your time and make sure everything is square. It’s not hard to put together but it’s harder to get it all square.
IMPORTANT. Step 38. Part D15 should read part Da15. The instructions ask you to cut part C45. This is necessary to install PE8 x 2. This part also plays an important role in installing the tracks. MiniArt give NO spare track links or pads. A it is I found the tracks came up short by just a few mm. I was aware of this problem and still came up short. My solution for “next time” is once you cut part C45, (C44), is to take off an additional 1-2mm. It’s not an exact measurement and will depend on how well you build the tracks. Now this will affect step 39, (49). Make sure you push the idler wheel well into the assembly. It may require a bit of trimming. You need to have the idler wheel about 1-2mm further in than the kit suggests. Make sure the upper idler wheels, 2 a side, are vertical. Bottom corner of page 9 & 10.
Step 40. I left off part A6. Just because I never had the heart to cover up the working spring. Otherwise step 40 to 50 is a repeat of the other side. Remember to trim part C44.
Step 53. I suggest replacing part C49 with a piece of clear sprue from the scrap box.
Step 57. Parts E18 and E19 need to be well in front of the grill. My locating pins on both parts were miss moulded and the locating pints were missing. The curve on the back of E18 and E19 DONOT meet with the curve coming down from parts B5 & B4. See step 68 for how they should look.
Step 59. I found it easier to glue parts He5 to He8 & He9 before gluing to sub assembly from step 58.
Step 60 & 61, I found De4, De5 all but impossible to install. Instead I put a rod right through. See step 63. BUT that never worked because it made installing the cable impossible. See the note at the end for my solution that I ended up using.
Step 64. Parts De9 should read Df9.
Step 65. Make sure E9 is installed vertically. The instructions are vague. The images of a complete model on the back page are WRONG. This part needs to be vertical as per the instructions colour illustrations.
NOTE. I never wanted a ‘working’ model. Thus I glued everything rather than trying to get it all to work.
Step ? Page 14. The tracks. Like all tracks they can be a PITA. Take your time. I made all the links/chain. Then installed the pads AFTER I installed the links/chain onto the bulldozer and glued it in place. My theory being that I could hide the ooops under the bulldozer. Installing the pads on all the pins is about as good as picking all the lottery numbers. Just make them neat. (I emailed MiniArt about the issue. They never hesitated to send me spare parts. But this shouldn’t be necessary if you are more careful than I was).
Step 74. Bottom left step of the page they ask you to insert E15 between E16 and E17. With NO glue. Good luck with that. My suggestion is to glue part E15 to E12 first. Then install E16 and E17 around E15. I glued everything as I wasn’t interested in a working model. Part E12 has 38 sprue gates. Enjoy!! Parts De3 go inside the marks. I think!! I glued mine to the outside of the marks and struggled with Step 70 and 71 later on. I think going inside the marks will be the correct location. Test fit first. Maybe I interpreted the instructions wrong. See step 75. Check and recheck.
Step 76. The block. This needs to be wired first or you will never get the cable/thread through. I assembled mine as per the instructions. I never could get the treads through. I pulled the block off and disassembled it. Twice! Threaded the cable and started again. Almost impossible to keep the glue off the thread/cable. Thread also never looked taut. In the end I gave up and consigned the tread to the trash bin. I found some 34 gauge wire in my stash. Twisted my own cables. Made them as straight as possible. Cut to length and super glued them in. Next time I will use metal cable everywhere. All cut to length and straight. Then super glued in place.
Site member Frenchy gave me this link which has been a gem. Caterpillar D7 1T 1941 Still at work - YouTube
All up it’s a great kit. Yes a few oops moments. But aren’t all kits like that? It took me about 55 hours to build. (Weathering is an on going process). I found the kit no more difficult than my RFM interior builds. I never found it the beast I was dreading. I enjoyed the build so much that I’ve ordered the military versions. Kit # 35291. The engine alone would make a great diorama.
I would like to thank everyone for their feedback.
bruce
Standing ovation required, this has been a particularly gutsy & honest build and you emerged victorious. All I ask is you take some shots from ground level particularly when installed in the diorama. This is on my shortlist of best builds 2021 alongside Angel’s weird DAK leaf-blower 
