NEW *(to me)* Weathering Shaders, Washes and Paints from CITADEL

*NEW Weathering Shaders, Washes and Paints from CITADEL
(These products are new to me anyway)

I got this tip from my middle son who is the big *Warhammer" and 40 K figure painter.
He and his fellow modelers call it "Experience in a Bottle!"

And my two current “go-to” shaders (so far): :paintbrush: :sparkles: :fireworks:

To find these products you will have to go to the “Warhammer, Rusty Scabbard, Dragon Fire” type hobby stores but I promise you your trip will be well worth it! :dragon:


Many have already seen my Kibri "Gothic Church:"
*Just the Nuln Oil for the roof and the Sepia for the stonework; brushed on over the raw plastic:


And a Well Aged Barn:
The Nuln Oil over pretty much everything!


The Sepia works great applied to a Hydracal or Plaster cast “Stone” structure:


I like them too. I need to work on better control for myself when applying.

1 Like

I am starting to get the “old man jitters” and this sort of model painting is perfect for me. Just use a moderate sized brush and “slap it on” ~ Want it darker? Slap on more coats!

As my son Adam calls it: ~ "Experience in a Bottle".

Some 40K Model Figures by Adam Koenig


1 Like

So far I have been mostly into the Citadel Shaders and “Krackle Finishes” but I have used a few of their paints.

I have used their “Auric Armour Gold” (Bright Gold) ~ They offer other more weathered and aged Golds as well.

Can you tell the real brass item sprayed with clear sealer from the plastic items painted in the Citadel Gold?

Just whistle when you see it.
You’re gonna POP when you figure it out
~ Pun very much intended!


That said, one thing I dislike is the bottles themselves. I do like the scoop inside to help wick off excess but actual opening can be a little pain. I feel like I might spill it everywhere. I have heard others complain the design allows the regular paint to dry out. It’s been awhile since I looked at mine to see their state.

I hear ya on that one. And the pop caps don’t always want to say open either.

1 Like

These Products are GREAT for Wood Decking:

Derelict flatcar used as railroad end loading ramp.
(I have seen this done in the US so I am guessing the Europeans thought of it first.)

To take an aging flatcar that is otherwise to be considered scrap. Remove the truck at one end and bury that end into the ground. Thus forming both an end-of-track bumper as well as an end-on loading ramp. Add some hinged “bridging ramps” * and you have it!

*Of course the AFV’s don’t need the bridging ramps but the soft skins do. (or at least a couple of wide planks to “mind the gap”.

On both car and ramp I replaced the model provided plastic, one piece, “wood” decking with individually distressed and stained Evergreen “boards”. I then used either Black or Sepia stain on each individual board - on some boards I used both stains while varying the intensity of the stains. When the boards were dry I mixed them all up in a big box and started “decking” the cars with a random selection of whatever color stained board came out of the box next.

1 Like

A nice little Interlocking Tower and Yard Office:
The brown and the yellow are the base colors of the kit plastic just with a Matte overspray. The roof has been sprayed with Tamiya Red Oxide Primer and then gone over with the Citadel Nuln Oil, producing a very nice Tera-Cotta (very So Cal) look. The skirted and shingled green wainscoting was produced using a green Citadel shader applied over the base yellow plastic.

Add a little Woodland Scenics grass and greenery ~ and Volia!

A Serious Aged, Dirty Brick Affect:
Using Just the “Nuln Oil” ~ (Enlarge the photo and look closely.)

Aged Wood:
The Sepia Shader over Yellow plastic


p.s. The gray sidewalk and the green roof also got their coatings of the black wash, to bring out the detailing and textures.

I did not touch the awning nor the signage. They were printed on regular uncoated typing paper and I did not know how they would react to the stains.



Trumpeter (1/35th) track ties (sleepers) first painted muddy brown and then given a thorough over coat of the Citadel “Nuln Oil” black shader.

CITADEL has “Texture” Paints as well!
They have several products designed to create caked-on mud or super dried cracked lake bed mud.

I used one product called “Alien Skin” to create the caked-on mud effect seen on this Famo recovery blade. I first created the texture but then pained over the Green Skin with a thinned dirt color and then more applications of Sepia Wash to blend it all together.


For Concrete Foundations:
*Citadel makes a texture paint called “Agrellia Earth”.
It is a thick, sloppy buff color. Brush it on smoothly and you get sort of a fine rough pebbly surface. Brush it on heavily and you will get a caked-on mud effect.

(I know it is hard to see the concrete foundation in the Coaling Tower photo.
Sorry ~ it is the best photo I have showing the concrete.)

I also use this thick goopy Agrellia Earth product as a ground cover adhesive to cover over model bases and then sprinkle Woodland Scenics grass over that. (After sprinkling on the grass, push it down lightly into the paint, allow to dry and then dump the excess grass back into its’ original bag.

(See base on RR Interlocking Tower above as well as the ground base on the sample shown below.)

1 Like

I have no association with the Citadel Company what so ever.

I am herein simply sharing information about what I consider to be an extremely high quality line of products that are nothing short of fantastic!

Going forward, I feel I could no longer continue being a somewhat successful scale modeler without the Citadel products in my tool kit.

Mike Koenig

Thanks for showing these. Wargaming paint is being discovered and gaining popularity with other model genres. The best washes I ever used are by Games Workshop but they discontinued them.

Doug Cohen uses Reaper paints for figures. He wrote they are acrylic but dry a tad slower and allow more time for bending.

Just as an aside I have been using Citadel paints along side ‘Model’ company paints for years.
I started off building models 40+ years ago then after approx 10 years I went to wargaming then again after years back to models and now I dabble at both. There are products meant for both genres that work in the other, same for some painting and building techniques although over the years I have come across people who are blinkered and think wargaming products have no place in modelling and vice versa.
@JPTRR Fred I had the ink pot version before those pots and yes they were very good.

Fred ~ I could be mistaken but I believe Citadel is OWNED by GamesWorkshop so those paints you are missing have not really disappeared.

Chama Sandhouse by Tyco, AHM & Bachmann ~ I think:
A black “Nuln Oil” wash over all the brown parts. Sepia over the "sand pile, Some Green for the roof plus a light bit of Nuln Oil and Rust over Silver for the upper sand tank.

The big propane tank* powers the sand dryer inside. (Best to sand down the parting seams on this piece before painting silver. Same with the sand storage drum high up on the tower.)

*Propane tanks are usually owned and well maintained by the propane supplier so no rust or aged grime there.

1 Like

My latest project:
Porch style (Ladder) railings will be coming for this Rustic Cabin done in O Scale:

Lots of Nuln Oil Shader applied to the roof. Also applied to the gray plastic “stone” chimney. The walls got painted a far more “woodsy” Dark Green
The railings are all just digital artwork for the moment but hopefully soon they will be real!

Anyone know who manufactured this structure kit originally?

I think it was originally intended as an S/O scale kit. (Plasticville Maybe???) I had some foam “stone” foundation material so I raised the entire structure 5/8 inch to bring it more into the O Scale World.

1 Like

Straight Citadel “Sepia” Shader applied to this partly scratch built Extension Ladder:


This is one of those solid “brick” molded resin detail loads seen here placed in my Italeri Opel Blitz “Mule”.
I think the brick came from “Tank Workshop.”

As I recall I sprayed the entire brick with German Dark Yellow as a base coat. Then touched a few things like that green bedroll with some paint for a color contrast. However after that it was all done with shaders. Sepia for the tarp. Then both Sepia and Black shaders for the ammo boxes, etc.

. Shaders of a Thousand Uses.

All the other loose crates seen in this photo also received the “Nuln Oil” black shader treatment.

1 Like