Greetings all,
As the headline says I’ve been out of the modeling world for over thirty years. I am an enthusiast of military aviation and though I “grew” out of the modeling world at 16 years old I maintained my love for military aviation. I built many models in those early years and actually put some effort into painting and decals although I had no peers. Looking back I figure I did the best I could being a hyperactive teen with nothing but tube glue, Testors paints, and an urge to get to the finished product. The only kits available to me at that time was Monogram and Revell.
Moving on; Just this year I decided I wanted to get back into scale modeling and with the internet and YouTube there is plenty of information out there to take in. Honestly I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed with all the information out there since it’s practically 100% more information than I had to work with back in the early '80’s. I took some time to get some supplies together, bought four kits and the paints for those kits. All Revell. I have only used enamel paints.This leads to my question … questions actually.
The first kit I am putting together is a Spitfire. It has raised panel lines. I have used a grey primer coat, and since It is my first model after such a long time I’m not going for perfection, but I am trying some new things for the first time. Airbrush (never had one but I understand the purpose of thinning paint and like concepts from my automotive working experience.
Since airbrushing is new to me, I figure I need a little more experience before I try pre-shading, so I decided to try using panel line wash. I haven’t purchased any yet.
THE DILEMMA: I tried making my own wash for the recessed detail lines around the control surfaces which halfway worked but when I tried to remove the excess with a q-tip I ended up rubbing the primer off as well. Ultimately taking the primer off in all those areas.
What are the basics that I a missing here in this scenario?
Acrylic washes over enamel?
Can I put enamel over the acrylic wash? i.e. Dullcote
Is primer necessary since I am using enamels?
Are there specific washes for enamels?
Is there a better way?? Besides switching to acrylic paints.
I just dont know the "Do’s and don’t s in this particular area.
Thank you for hanging in there. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Jeff, welcome to the Kitmaker Network!I’m an armor guy, but your questions are general, so I can help you out here, even if you do build wingy-things. The problem you are encountering is caused by using the same medium for your wash that you used for your primer and basecoat. All enamels, so the thinner is eating through your paint. Tamiya panel liner is an enamel, too, so that’s going to give you problems also. You need to cover your basecoat with a complete coating of acrylic or lacquer clear before you do any enamel weathering so that the weathering products don’t eat through your basecoat. A clear gloss is preferred. You can get Testor’s Glosscote in a spraycan or bottle to airbrush it. That’s lacquer. Or you can get Vallejo clear acrylic in a spray can. Just as effective. Once you have this clear barrier on, you can go ahead with your enamel washes and panel liner without it taking off your paint.
Thank you SSGToms for your advice.
So you’re saying lay down my enamel colors, then cover that with an acrylic gloss clear. then my panel line wash. If the paint scheme calls for a flat finish, would I use an acrylic flat over the wash?
In my research I have heard that decals go on best over a gloss finish. Should the decals go on at this stage as well? Before the wash is applied?.
You can also use Future/Pledge, or any other acrylic varnish thin enough (or you can thin with water) to pass through your airbrush. Just be sure to tear down your airbrush immediately after and thoroughly clean it. Acrylics dry fast and build up, so best to clean up ASAP!
Applying them before the wash just means they will get the same level of weathering as the rest of the vehicle and not stand out so much. Bright white stars on an otherwise dusty or oil-splattered surface look out of place.
You will soon find that acrylic colours those days are the best choice. After painting with them, you can use enamels or oils for wash and then a final layer of varnish (mat, gloss, whatever your final finish needs to be).
I have never used primer, unless on extended scratch building projects, in order to unify the different materials.
The rule is to mix the different mediums. Most weathering products on the market are enamel based and use spirits as a thinner or wash. So your base coat can be laquer based or acrylic based. Putting a clear coat protects your decals. In your case the clear would protect the enamel base. Here is a link to the basics of weathering. What is good for armor is basically the same for aircraft. Basics of Weathering - General Discussions / General Painting - KitMaker Network
Welcome back. Which kit are you working on?
Hi Jeff, glad to have you join us, your story is much the same as many of us here regarding a return to the hobby, a lot has changed since back in the day. Everyone has given good info about panel lines and weathering but one thing I’ll point out is that you can use NAPTHA to thin your enamels without damaging your enamel undercoat/topcoat if you’re careful and don’t scrub too hard. Honestly, I’d suggest switching over to Acrylics or Lacquer paints before you invest more money in enamels, they’re less toxic and are less likely to gas up your living space. That said, tell us more about your period preferences for modeling, I’m a track head and focus specifically on SEA or Nam era armor, anxious to hear more from you, welcome aboard.
After this project I plan to begin on an SBD Dauntless
Then a P-61 Black Widow. These two I purchased for nostalgic reasons. I had then back in the day when they were Monogram kits.
Thank you for the link as well.
I am familiar with Naptha. I used it in the work environment to clean parts. I have also heard Naptha mentioned in a YT video before but I didn’t catch its exact purpose for use. I just assumed it was an alternative for thinning purposes. So … You’re saying it won’t damage the basecoat as a panel line wash? Of course if I am gentle with it lol.
As far as switching to acrylics; I’ve been dreading that reality since I have already spent a small fortune on enamel paints for four kits. I didn’t realize that acrylics were the norm until after I started doing some real research. Usually vids on YT. I had already purchased the majority of my paints by then.
I do appreciate your advice and realize I should make that change. May have to do it slowly though.
I don’t really have a preferred period per se, I like em all, however WWI era aircraft doesn’t strike my interest in the modelling world. Don’t really know why except I never was interested in bi-planes. However WWII, Korea, Vietnam to Modern, and in-between. I dig military aviation.Spent a large portion of my teens reading books on the air war in WWII and progressed from there. Discovering the Korean War, and Vietnam in that manner. All this long before there was The History Channel and Discovery, and the internet. Anyway, life demands attention once a certain age is reached, and I got away from it all. Now I’m older and I have managed to maintain those interests.
Pardon for the length of this reply. Just …No one has ever asked me that question. Lol
Cheers!
I totally get your reluctance to switch paints, you’ve got plenty of time to experiment, personally I’ve never used acrylic paints prefering to use lacquers and enamels. Your aircraft choices are similar to mine especially WWII PTO carrier planes on through the jet age. Your Spit looks like your off to agood start. BTW we thrive on lengthy replies, that’s what it’s all about here.
Jeff, you don’t HAVE to switch to acrylics. It’s okay to be an enamel guy in the 2020’s. Yes, in the last 20 years acrylics have made great improvements. Most of them thin with water instead of a solvent. But if you airbrush them, it’s still not safe to breathe the fumes, so you still need a spray booth and protection. I spent $400 to switch to acrylics and hate them. Just couldn’t get along with them, couldn’t get a good coat. Jamming up my airbrush every 2 minutes. Brush painting 6 coats to get coverage. But I learned to live with them. Then AK Interactive Real Colors came out, I tried them, and presto! Painting nirvana! Now I’m a lacquer guy and use Real Colors almost exclusively. And I’m not ashamed to be a lacquer guy, no matter how much the acrylic guys tremble in fear when I say lacquer. So, it’s okay to be an enamel guy, too.
I use AMMO Acrylics probably 75% of the time. On my current Space 1999 Eagle I’m using enamels, lacquer and acrylics. It all depends on what I’m working on, and what I feel like.
OP don’t sweat it. Use what you have - paint is paint. But keep in mind how they interact with each other. and have fun.
You can still use enamels just clear cote it in acrylic before you start weathering. A single layer of acrylic will be more then enough to protect the paint work underneath. Another bonus to using enamels is you can turn any of them into washes,streaking and filters simply by thinning with paint thinner/mineral spirits.
Everyone develops a preference for the type and brand. I like Tamiya and other laquear based paints because they spray very well. I used to use acrylics more but they can be more fiddley with tip dry and other issues. Acrylics dry quickly and may need retarder added. Some brands/ paint types brush very well and others don’t.
Ask before doing until you get a feel for it. Me, I panic at the thought of using enamels. As a kid I remember the paint being slightly tacky a week later. I’m OK using them to weather though.
Each type/brand has its own issues and advantages. Some are very close to the correct color others, not so much. Some spray better some brush better. All of them have little variations to get the best from them. Ask before doing. You will get a variety of answers, prune and go with the best advice. Pretest on a sample to make sure you get it right and then stick with what works well for you.
I’ve had a saying for years; “When in Doubt … Find out.”
Which is what brought me to this fine site.
Everyone has been very informative, and I like and appreciate that. Like I stated before, there is plenty of information out there, but I had questions that I had derived from the many vids I watched before finally deciding to join a forum. Then, lo and behold, in a days time I had answers. I feel much better (and confident) now about my venture into this new (to me) aspect of detailed scale modeling.
I do believe I have read enough to decide to stick with enamels. I like the durability aspect of them and I am already familiar with them. Familiarity is a bit of a comfort blanket for me here. I am also not opposed to using acrylics as clear coats. I figure since the acrylic protects the basecoat I can fix a lot of the mistakes I may make from there if I’m careful.
I purchased some Tamiya gloss clear x-22, and recieved it today. I am interested in seeing how it works out even though this “tip dry” thing has got me a bit nervous.
I already have a bottle of Vallejo airbrush thinner … Purchased it when I bought the airbrush. That would be alright to thin my gloss coat right?
