Oil wash applied.
Off of project “H & J” for five days for it to dry & cure.
She’s really been fantastic putting up with the model hobby, staying on printer stand or in desk drawer for basically the whole deal.
The old Paasche H airbrush sees a lot of action blowing cat hair off of everything before sessions and sometimes during.
I am also constantly removing pet floof from my builds and tools.
Part of the game, I guess.
Minor update had been out of the hobby room most of the last week.
Drybrushing H, the yellow & green applied have yet to do red-brown areas. I’ve knocked half a dozen parts off so far off of the H. After it’s weathered, it may have to be reassembled.
The J has received the base wash.
Coming along very nicely. Seeing all these WWII builds kind of almost makes me want to do some WW armor. In fact I’m looking to get the newish Tamiya PZ IV. 
@Armorsmith, Thank you DV:)
I’d love to heard your take on the newish Tamiya Pz IV. What color scheme do you think would be fun to do?
Minor Update - Fat Finger’s in Action 
Late last Saturday, the sticker Zimmerit lifted on the H’s turret skirt door…went to press it back down…the turret skirt broke…it had aligned perfectly when assembled and fell right into place…just a touch of Tamiya Extra Thin to seal the deal…I knew that was way to easy…lol…the J’s turret skirt was more of a battle and required slow setting Testor’s to get tweaked into proper alignment…the J’s skirt also seems a lot more solid
Had to take a (no pun) break from work bench for a few days and chill out. No more sticker Zimmerit for a while. Fixed the lifted spot with super glue. Fixed the skirt with Testor’s Liquid Cement as more time needed to tweak into place this time around.
Today’s repair.
The H waiting for the Testor’s LC to set up.
Next time tempting fate with dry transfers on the turret skirt…
I think white-blue turret numbers will pop nicely with the tri-color.
I’ve never had any luck with any kind of dry transfers. Several guys in the club use them to good effect. I just decided that it must be some kind of voodoo magic that is beyond my comprehension.
As for the new Pz IV I’ve not actually seen it, just the ads for it. Going to a show at the end of July so maybe I van pick it up there.
I fear the blue will clash big time with the 3-tone.
But nice save after the mishap. A build would not be a real one, if there was not at least one.
Good catch! I really like the paint job. For myself I’ve given up with any kind of transfers over Zimmerit. I just do it how it was done in real life and hand paint the numbers on. The advantage is it doesn’t matter if it ends up looking a bit rough, it does in real life! In fact you could argue that really neat numbers over Zimmerit don’t look realistic, c.f. the numbers DML provided for their PzIV H which had the HJ marking scheme including the well known “625”.
Excellent points well worth considering. Thank You. I appreciate the feedback and kind comments 
The only dry transfers, I’ve were used ages ago on smooth surface and one Archer on a fire extinguisher last month. Doing them on the fragile skirt may more tedious than expected.
So the white-blue may clash instead of contrast with the tri-color? Here’s a badly done junker from 1994 with blue numbers. The base tri-color is the same Floquil Military Color paints probably from the same bottle.
I’d read they did white-blue & yellow-blue in WW2 so thought it should work. The yellow-blue transfers are a definite no go…they sort of looked like silvered decals.
Hand painted would look best, I agree. Hand painting numbers is beyond my skill set however. Can’t do that with a wash and drybrushing…wink.
Airbrushing numbers via stencil might be doable and yield this sort of result.
Thoughts?
I’ve had very good result’s applying decals over zimmerit using Solvaset and applying gentle pressure with either a soft brush or Q-tip. If the decals are very thin like, Cartograph you need to be very careful but if they are Tamiya which tend to be thicker it might require more than one application and pressure.
Good luck.
Much appreciated. Agreed SolvaSet goes with decals on Zimmerit like bread & butter. Thank you for the warning about SolvaSet and thin film decals. Will probably stick to Micro-Set &Micro-Sol at first using thin film.
Hoping to skip the gloss coat, decals, gloss coat routine. Looks like some test is in order.
Wade, I get that decaling over Zimmerit is delicate, but you don’t need to bring your testis into it…
LOL…That was my best typo this week!
Looks like a free trip to the Russian front for a painter when the tank commander sees the hand painted numbers…
Reference Pic
Turned out nicely. 
It turned out very nicely! It looks hand painted but in scale.
Looks like a free trip to the Russian front for a painter
He will be court martialed, shot, AND sent to the russian front!
Sorry Wade I couldnt resist a Hogans Heroes reference… 
It may appear Col. Klink or Stg. Shultz painted the insignia & turret numbers being they are my first attempts ever at hand painting.
Used a little artistic license with the unit logo as that was probably rare by 1944, however unit logo did still appear on vehicles as late as 1945 in some cases.
The above Frundsberg Panther being an example. Discussion with @Hohenstaufen helped roughly date the above Panther to ~1945 based on when the unit finally received Panthers. Getting a handle on the time line mattered to me as the “J” was intended as a Frundsberg Pz IV.
So as a thank you to @Hohenstaufen for helping me get a rough timeline for the Frundsberg Panther, the Pz IV H received the Hohenstaufen unit logo.
Have to mark the fire extinguisher and will use a dry transfer for that later tonight.
Looking good. Glad to be able to help.
Looks great as per usual! The hand painted markings are spot on!
Tracks, touch ups, pastels, base & name plate remaining to do on Pz IV H. Have to replace a wing nut that blew off when the flat coat was sprayed.
Decided to remove the front side skirt…didn’t like it. Not sure about the remaining side skirt.
Also had to start working on a base, first coat of polyurethane. It’s a pre-sanded and pre-stained one this time around. $10 raw base or $20 for sanded and stained.
