As ZZ Top would say…
They come runnin’ just as fast as they can
'Cause every girl crazy 'bout a sharp-dressed man … 
Just for you John… folded railings. 
“Your presence is required in the bomb room. Schnell!” 
—mike 
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A little interior decorating…
Haunebu IIb, ‘Bomb Kerplunken Carousel.’ 
…
Here’s a mock-up of the bomb room and bomb dropping mechanism. In addition, I added a few portholes to the exterior wall. I’m thinking of adding horizontal rectangular windows and a door to the inner wall as well.
Eduard (672113) 1/72 SC 250 German WWII Bombs.
“Hmmm… More bombs, I insist.” 
I’ll be drilling a hole through the floor and bottom dome just below the vertical ready-bomb.
Thank’s for having a look.
—mike …
PS: Hope I’m not over posting.
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It certainly looks that way. If I recall correctly after you use the body for that project you will still have a three-wheel chassis with a simple engine as the basis of another project.
Cheers,
M
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I have already touched base with the sci fi part of the campaign. This will be submitted just for alt history fun. Will be a Afrika Korp update.
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The guys in the Third Reich might have planned for it to last 1000 years… but did they expect the war to last 100!!
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Yeah lots of bits for the spares box. Probably steering wheel will go too, replace that with an LCARS console.
I’ll have a better idea of what I can do with it once I have it in my hands.
@justsendit I like that rotating bomb system. Exactly the sort of over-engineered, over-complicated thing the Third Reich loved to build. Going to be interesting to see what you add to that over the next few days.
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Thats a fun, clever addition … looks cool as well.
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You have me confused. Didnt the U.S. win WW2? Are they not still in Germany? How is the idea different? But what I am sure of is colonization, so no reason they would have ever left the region once there for whatever reason put them there in the first place.
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In terms of the ‘push to fit’ parts the suspension arms go on very nicely with no glue needed.
Once they are done it’s on to the tracks. I really don’t like doing tank tracks and running gear so I wasn’t looking forward to doing four sets of tracks instead of the usual two.
My initial build of a front track set went well but when I test fitted them they seemed off by one link as each end wouldn’t link up.
Assuming I’d made a mistake I assembled the other small run and they met fine so yeap, my fault and easily sorted.
The ‘push to fit’ is not great on the tracks- I found most needed glue to stay together. Luckily the area to mate the links is well away from the pivot so they will stay workable if you apply the glue carefully.
I have also tried to find the best place to mate the tracks after painting them- below the idler is the area I found easiest to get at. Mating them up is simply a matter of adding a top link half.
(My tweezers in the photo below are just holding the ends together while I take the photo.)
All in all, the tracks were not the PITA I was expecting- they turned out to be straightforward and they put up with a decent bit of manipulation.
Below is the road wheels, sprockets and idlers.
Thanks for reading.
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Mike, beautiful work! You are really taking the flying saucer to the next level. Cool idea with the bomb carousel!
Karl, great work. Looking forward to see it finished and all lighted up! Any thoughts for camouflage yet?
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I’’m still thinking about the camo at the minute. On screen in the game all the tanks had a kind of light grey color. The Apocalypse had various red bits as well. The FMV sequences of the game show CGI versions of the the tank which I think show a kind of grey-scale or winter camo.
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I am the same. I keep the drive sprocket, idler and return rollers loose for access, if I can, then do my join here:
Usually you can have a length of tape fixed on the top, and you can use tweezers to pull the ends together then pull the loose end of tape over and around to the bottom run to secure them while the glue sets up.
When making the track lengths, I slip some folded paper or cardboard between the fender and top of the track run, so it is snug in the return rollers.
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Hello all,
Here’s today’s Haunebu IIb update…
Halfway there… one “workable” hydraulic cylinder for ‘KLAW’… one more to go. 
The silver rod was made from a paper-clip.
Can’t wait to clean this up and get it into paint.
—mike …
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Looking great Mike. 
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That looks really bloody good!
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After the tracks were all built up it was time to deal with the rest of the hull. I wanted to start with the front lights which I had pulled up so they were sitting neatly in the little holes on the hull where I assumed the headlights would go- presumably on top so the light would shine up and illuminate them.
But noooooo. Turns out Border model have a lot of faith in their flimsy little circuit board. Honestly I felt a grip slightly over ‘feather-light’ would break this thing but what they want you to do is:
Pull both LED’s up through the very tight hull openings.
Push it into the also very tight light housing.
Pull the wire terminals together.
Fold the wires down to put the back of the light on.
Squeeze the wires into a sort of down pipe.
Ram the whole lot back down the bit in the hull you pulled it through.
Repeat on the other side.
And hope it still works.
I honestly had such little faith in the wiring durability that I said to myself when I saw what they wanted (well more like worked out what they meant from the vague instructions), ‘no way- no way they want me to do that. It’ll never work!’
But after checking several times and carefully examining the shape of the parts and the attachment points it became clear what was required, as written above.
(You can see in the instructions that they have the LED itself pictured with no wires going backward into the front of the light housing. Obviously with the wires attached that is not possible. Hence why you kind of have to work out the way to do it.)
Most surprising thing of all was that it actually worked!
Below you can see a few of the stages which should make the process clearer than the instructions.
Next up will be some work on the back and front of the hull.
Thanks for reading.
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Nailed it- I thought it looked sort of bug eyed like that when I photographed it!
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‘Hypno Toad’… 
Nice work on the lighting, it looks really cool! 
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Meanwhile… some more work on the Haunebu IIb project…
‘KLAW’ attached to the ‘KAT’ arm. The clevis bases are now affixed with CA glue and pistons are in fully workable condition. 
—mike …
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