Despite the turret comes from the Tamiya 105 mm, it lacks the peculiar rim.
So I carved the line and then soaked a thin plasticard rod into it. Once fully dry I’ll refine it to some decent look (hopefully).
Looks like you didn’t actually start it until a week or so ago, well within the start time of the campaign. So I’d say party on! Should be an interesting build, so please keep us up to date.
I’ve never built an Asuka kit, what is this one like, is it sweet and simple like Tamiya or is it one of these newer one thousand part kits, how does it build?
Have a look-see right here:
Asuka model 35-009 British Sherman 5C FIREFLY
Instruction sheet and photos of sprues.
Tracks can be replaced with AM indylink if you fancy that type (I do but I’m a glutton for punishment)
I have read that they fit well but the hull tub is a “flat pack” design à la IKEA
Tasca/Asuka kits are a tad more detailed than Tamiya, eg casting numbers on parts, better quality mouldings, etc, plus the shape is correct. They are great kits, accurate, well designed (flat pack aside, I still like that) and go together well. Just take the usual care in cleaning up parts, etc. You would probably opt for a metal barrel instead of the two part one for the Firefly, but the rest is pretty much there.
My personal view: It indeed goes together well and is well cast with little seam lines and no flash.
There are a couple of attention points:
The rear is a bit of a hassle. The curved part above the exhausts (which are not visible unless you pick up the vehicle and use a flash light to look at then) cannot protrude above the side parts at all, otherwise the engine deck will not fit… Guess how I know.
The instructions are generally well thought out, but the attention points are all written in Japanese. Use google lens to translate them.
The instructions tells you to shave off the bolt heads from the sprues to detail the outside of the pressed steel wheels (open wheels are also included). These bolt heads are beyond tiny and my initial try didn’t go well. I therefore opted to make them with my old historex punch and die set and ten thou plastic card. This may be a bit over scale, but it looks nice and is easier than shaving 144 (12 per wheel, on 12 wheels) those bolt heads off of the sprues.
I am not done yet, but thus far these are my findings.
Looking very good mate …only thing I would not have are the loose weapons just chucked on the back uncovered… They would get covered in crud in seconds flat …
@Johnnych01 thats a very good point. I got distracted just lobbing stuff on the back. I have a Miniart tool set somewhere so can swap them out for some tools.
These Modelkasten from the 90s are infernal!
I felt like Capt. Willard: I wanted a mission (pick from the stash and save money) and for my sins they gave me one…
And now the real discussion for the community: I hoped 3D printing could solve this pain in the *** giving me nice workable link and lenght set, letting me free to indulge in what I like the most (painting and weathering and some conversion fun). So why all the efforts are in super-detailed super-split shoe by shoe tracks? Again?! And sky rocketed priced??
Well just my own opinion as usual…
I feel your pain. I once completed a set of MK tracks for an M4A3E2. Nine parts per link: 2 pieces for the track pads, 2 track pins, 2 end connectors, 2 end connector retaining bolts and 1 duck bill. Fun.
In all fairness, best looking tracks ever made, but still. My sanity is worth more than that.
I too bought a set of Modelkasten M4 VVSS tracks once. Opened the box, looked at the instructions, and saw the 9 parts per link. I’ve done some really crazy modeling things but decided instantly I wasn’t THAT crazy! Closed the box, and put it on the club table at Armorcon marked “Free”. Somebody snapped it up. I sure hope it wasn’t an innocent kid.