Thanks for the advice, Tom.
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Hope you can get it sorted Matt, you have put a lot of great work into it already …
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Matt, that’s a great looking Sherman with lots of hard work. Hopefully it can be sorted before the deadline.
Based on what Tom said, would building up just the areas between the front & rear turret overhangs on each side make it easier to sort vs the entire turret base?
@CKPlasticModels Colon, your Sherman is looking fantastic! Looking forward to seeing more. The MMP chipping looks very trick to me. A++
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Nope. I have to build up the outside of that entire round area until it sits outside the hole. Then feather in the additional sheet with putty, and add texture. Not looking forward to it, but it IS do-able.
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Looking good on the hull. The turret will be sorted out in no time, keep at it.
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Thanks John, thanks Ryan.
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The nuclear option would be to saw off the entire base and replace it with a disk of 0.080" evergreen of the correct diameter. It sounds drastic but may actually prove easier to do…
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Good shout !
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Where? All the gaps I can see on it, are panel lines that are supposed to be there.
BTW, did you add that right-to-left weld line under the crowbar? On a Sherman as early as this one, that wasn’t there 
Only the later tanks with the single-piece glacis plate and large drivers’ hatches had a weld there because the sponson roof was constructed in two sections instead of one. Talking of which: periscope guards (as you have on the turret) would also be unlikely on a small-hatch M4, unless it also has appliqué armour on hull and turret.
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Looks like I’m not the only one who is less than impressed with this company’s products. OK, it’s a sample of two (people and kits) but still. (For the record: if you build their T1E1 mine roller from the box it will look like the real thing to someone who doesn’t know much about it, but that’s as far as it goes where accuracy is concerned.)
Anyway, I would go for the solution @barkingdigger recommends: glue plastic strip around it.
FWIW, the M4’s turret ring should be almost exactly 50 mm diameter in 1:35 scale, so you could measure the kit to see if it’s too big, and/or if the BD part is clearly too small.
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I meant the gaps that are too deep 
I’m not going to fill them all the way, just make them shallower so they don’t look like build flaws and instead look like panel lines. Mainly the one on the right side of the engine deck.
Can you post pictures? And can I just remove the weld?
In that case, can I just remove the guards and it’ll be fine?
(I feel like I’ve got a lot of removing to do 
)
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The recessed weld lines? Ah, yes, they need filling. On the real tank the weld beads were on top of the armour, not below it. That’s a fault that apparently goes back to Tamiya’s M4A3 of the early 1980s, that other manufacturers just copied until about 25 years ago.
Not offhand, but if you remove the weld so that the front and rear sections look like one plate, you’re good.
Yes, take the guards off and it’s much more accurate. Either that, or add the additional armour plates on the hull and turret to represent a remanufactured vehicle.
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Yep, wrap the puppy in some styrene sheet. It’s too cool a conversion to toss. More work for sure, but it’ll be a really nice oddity for the shelf.
Keep at it.
Mike
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FWIW - Spruebrothers.com has 10% to 25% off on all model kits. The Meng & RFM Shermans have a pretty good discount.
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Where I am at the moment with this model:
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