Summer Nostalgia!

I got slighjtly distracted, so I am calling this a second summer project: Finemolds 1992 Type 95 Ha-Go.
It came to me last friday along with a bunch of other semi-finished builds and spareparts and I just had to have a go at it.
First I had to strip away 4 layers of paint and while that was soaking I went over the parts that were present.

A number of small pieces were missing, axles had broken off, but all in all not too bad.
After 24 hrs in the battalion workshop it looks like this; I added details to the cupolahatches.

Good thing I kept the second Chi-ha crewman along with the leftover decals.


Back at it again.

Finished up and ready to paint.
While mixing my paint, I dropped the stirring stick, with paint, onto my lap…
Never done that before. :rage:
The paint removal and washing did not produce the desired effect.

Back to painting. I put the parts on a TV tray and set them outside to paint. I put on a latex glove to paint with and loaded paint in the brush. I have a long hose but ended up short. I had to move a couple of items in the way. They ended up falling t the floor… I will just pick the stuff up later. i grab the hull to start and notice I have the glove on the wrong hand…

In spite of the gremlins, The paint sprayed perfectly.

I started with Tamiya’s Khaki.

Now for the Camo.

I see two ways to do this. First draw the pattern on with a pencil, spray the field and brush the edge.
The second is to cut a sencil from Tamiya’s masking tape.

I think I am going with the first option.


Going good, I see! :smile:

But the paint came out nice! I’d definitely go for masking tape. Brushpainting will always show on a sprayed surface.
Tape nice and tight and a tip I got was to seal the tape edge with some mat varnish. That way the new layer can not leak in under the tape.

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I may end up doing that if I am unhappy and send it to the strip bath.

But the M13 is not forgotten!
The gear in place and some testing on weathering with pastels.


Better late than never… I will join with something that really sreams nostalgia… something I also built about 50 years ago …


Well, I made a start on my build, the Tamiya Schutzenpanzer Marder 1A1

First filled the motorisation holes:

Every road wheel has sink marks around the tyre centre that I will need to fix. The kit has sink marks in a lot of parts - oh joy…

Also made a start on the turret. A few shortcuts taken on this kit, to enable the ease of removing the sprues from the mould and this is to the detriment of shape and accuracy. So the cut out in the face needed to be removed and made deeper, the extended armour on the face needed sides added and weld beads need to be done. Still a way to go here:

One of my references for the work needed:


Sweet! If only I could get one of those again.


If I may, how did you make those tiny weld lines?

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They are stretched sprue. Hold a piece of sprue so the centre is over a candle flame until the end droops down. Take it away from the flame and gently pull the ends apart. You can regulate the thickness by the amount you pull them apart with. Cut a section to the required length and use liquid cement to glue it into place. Push down on it to flatten the bottom a bit.

Once it has set, run a sanding stick over the weld to flatten the top a bit and thin the weld if they are really shallow ones. Then brush more liquid cement on the sprue and use the back of the scalpel to gently press into the sprue to make small, shallow indents. Then add more cement and use the flat of the blade to press down and slide sideways a bit. This way you get the look of ‘flow’ type welds.

I use sprue a different colour to the vehicle so you can see what you are doing.


Thank you! The welds I made with Milliput look too bulky. Yours look much better and stretched sprue is far easier to control.


I find if you light one end and stick it something solid/plastic mat and pull from only one end you can get a longer more consistent diameter then pulling both ends where it can look like a row of sausage. I have seen hair like thickness pulled across a room this way.


The trick is not having it curl but stay straight.

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Interesting Ryan. I have never had an occasion where I did not get a consistent smooth flow.

One of my club guys once told me that he clamps the ends of a section of stretched sprue and uses a hair dyer on low temp from a distance to get it to pull taught and straighten. I have never had a need to try it myself.


The modeler was using this technique for his ship building lines. I can see it for us with smaller wires etc being most useful.


For straight stretched sprue, I pull it apart and hold it taunt for about 60 seconds. That usually gives all the styrene molecules enough time to return from liquid to solid state. Another method I have used is to plunge the stretched sprue into cold water while keeping it taunt. This forces the molecules to rapidly transition from liquid back to solid state. I am not a chemist and do not know if styrene behaves like metals and reorganizes into a crystalline structure when rapidly going through the state transition.

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A try to make it weather beaten


Well done!
Colour looks a bit dark. Or is it the pictures?

I fixed the issue with the tracks by cutting out 2 links on each side and glueing the tracks in place.

I also repainting the Ha-Go, which gave me quite a bit of a headache. Whatever I did I had lots of overspray. Quite a bit of touching up to do…


Looking great, Ron. Very nice tanks so far.

Looking forward to seeing more :slightly_smiling_face: