T-54/T-55 Campaign

I have used oil paints which is a main fall back for my weathering process, Newton and Windsor Titanium Buff and Raw Umber can be mixed to get a wide range of earth colours which you can see on the rubber band tank tracks.
I place small amounts of the oil paint onto paper or cardboard to leech out a lot of the oil so you are left with pigment and then i use cheap white spirits to thin the paint. it is applied using a large brush and the excess can be removed with kleenex tissues and with a clean brush dipped in the white spirit with most of the spirit removed.

I do have weathering powders and i plan to use those but only at the final stage.

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Do I understand correctly that you yourself make some kind of filters and washes? I used oil paints only with the technology of “oil dots” (if you are familiar and understand this term in my “English” presentation). At the same time, I have a need for such effects as you described. How much do you thin the paint? Can you attach a very large photo of the track section?

yes i make my own wahes using oil paints.

on the tracks i use a much thicker wash where as on the tank it is much thinner wash. if you put the tank wash onto a newspaper (non government approved as the paper absorbs less of the wash)*joke of course. you should still be able to see the printed words on the paper you apply the wash to.

you can see on rhe tank tracks, the thicker wash

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T-rex tracks, assembled, painted, and attached now. It took a lot of elapsed time, but not a lot of actual time. I like them quite a bit. I’m wondering whether I should glue them to the roadwheels…

But now, just to touch up the paint where I added the final pins, a little bit where the tracks bend around the sprocket and the idler and show unpainted resin, and then to add the weathering that I put on the rest of the hull.

As an aside, I have had trouble in the past with primer sticking to resin (but I have really done very little work with resin) and the mr finishing surfacer seems to be gripping this really well (so far at least).



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Tamiya Fine Primer is also a great primer for resin. The trick is to wash the resin thoroughly before starting the build to remove the releasing agent.

in the home stretch now, just need to sort out the fuel drums and some weathering powders.



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Really coming to life now David.

I’ve shot some paint on my Tiran 5 finally.

I liked the chips: they are moderate and good. Do you make them with a brush or a sponge? To my taste, I would add chips to the hatches and the tower - in places where the crew frequented. But this is my personal perception.

@fromSalekhard i use a sponge, i find it looks more natural.

i was permitted to see the real tank and climb onto the turret and didn’t see much chipping there. the tank is in a restricted viewing area.

This is an argument!

@fromSalekhard i thought we were discussing the matter…here is a picture of the turret as proof i was there and took pictures with my own phone.

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Probably a translation issue, if I had to guess.

Great picture. If I ever get around to my kit, I will try to have that panel lifted.

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@Tank_1812 @fromSalekhard ah yes i keep forgetting about google translate services not being 100% accurate, my apologies.

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calling my Tamiya T-55 Enigma done.






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That looks really good!

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Great work! I love the subtle weathering, makes it look like a proper tank.

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Well done overall. Sorry I didn’t follow the build that closely. Is it mostly OOB? :+1: :+1:

Great job David. It really looks the part.

cheers guys @Armorsmith yep it’s a simple OOB as i wanted a break from less complicated, even used the rubber band tracks lol

Great looking enigma, David!

Chipping looks very good. In general chipping is less in real life than people make it out to be, although there are also examples of heavier chipping in real life.

I can recommend the books “Spoils of war” on Iraqi vehicles destroyed and captured during the gulf war. They are great inspiration.

Spoils of war 2 book