Takom 1/35 AH-64D Longbow Start-to-Finish Build

My challenge is building this kit without the Longbow radar. There are no options in the kit to build it without. I can’t find a clear shot of what the top of rotor head looks like without it. (one grainy shot of just the flat top of the rotor head is about it.) The problem is they came in several configurations - flat top, just the lower cylindrical base for the Longbow, same base with a thin conical protrusion, or just a thin sensor mast. The last is what I’ll be doing. It’s what was most prevalent.

There are many other details in my photos that are different than the kit, but I’m not going to grouse about them. My son says the ones he worked on are pretty much like the kit. There are lots of closed over openings and vents in my photos. I’m thinking either due to higher operating altitudes or maybe dusty conditions. My son worked on them at Wheeler and in Korea, pretty much at sea level.

I sense another trip to 38-40-46.8080N 104-45-39.3800W. :slight_smile:


I will ask my buddy if he has any. Our guard unit just got some new birds a few weeks back. He is going also going next week to drop a 1/48 model built of their A version for display.


The last thing I want to do is highjack this thread with photos of my own build (we have another guy whose got that covered) but I did want to share.
Not all D models carry the Longbow. I think we all know that. In Afghanisatn it was found to be superfluous due to the kind of threats typically employed there. Even when using the Longbow, typically only one bird in four has one mounted. There were none at our firebase. So I’m guessung no one anticipated these words:
IMEX to the rescue!

I may have to lengthen the shaft,

but the part included in the IMEX kit should save a bit of scratch building.

Plus, I don’t agree with the color call out in the instructions for MIG Olive Drab Dark, so I"ll be using an IMEX kit to practice what may well be one of the most intricate paint jobs I’ve done in a decade or two.


I haven’t done any Apache work for a while. If you’re following along on the 5"38 project you can see why I haven’t. I also haven’t done any work becuase I needed those seat belts. Thanks to a tip from one of my readers, I got these on eBay and they’ll be perfect. We’re heading out for a week trip on Tuesday so work will begin again after that. They’re just was the doctor ordered as long as I don’t lose any of them.


Installed the new belts today and they are vastly better than the pathetic PE with the kit. I don’t know why Takom bothered to include it. It might have been better to mold them into the seats.

Here’s a nice comparison: I won’t tell you which is which. You can figure it out.

With the belts installed I was able to finally mount the seats. By default and installing the fancy seat belts, I’m saving my money and not spending $50+ on the wonderful Reedoak crew. I’m building the 5" turret and need to keep my powder dry to cover the costs of that project.

I then got back to work on the fuselage.

Based on Nigel’s video, he found that Part P25 which is installed on Page 20, must be installed on Page 5. You can’t put the duct assembly in place without P25 being in place, and it’s not an easy part to install requiring some pushing and shoving.

Here is part P25 glued to the exterior.

The fit was a bit ragged and needed a tad of filler. Then you assemble the 2-part duct and insert it from the rear. It’s supposed to nest tighly into the open space on the outside, but couldn’t quite get there. This is what the fit it looked like.

Here’s how it looked after filling and sanding.

And here’s the ducting on the inside. This ducting is for an APU and the starboard side is the intake I’m assuming.

There’s similar opening on the port side which I’m assuming is the APU’s exhaust. However, nothing is mentioned on page five. It shows the assembly going in on page 19 FROM THE OUTSIDE. Again, it’s tricky fit that would require handling the model a lot and there’s internal ducting (Parts C11 & 12) for this one too. I decided to install it now for the same reasons as the opposite side.

I assembled the three parts with the duct glued to the exterior fairing C60.

T DOESN’T GO IN WELL FROM THE OUTSIDE. If you do try and force it, the duct doesn’t bend around the corner and breaks the glue joint. Experiece talking. So I did it like the previous one and install the fairing on the outside and the duct from inside. Further reason to install in on Page 5. Page five is where you join the fuselage halves.

Here’s the outisde view: The duct has a tiny gap. I’m thinking that all of this is going to be hidden by the engine exhaust housing.

And from the inside.

The last thing I did was install the tail rotor gear box housing. You need to install this BEFORE joining the halves. It has a small fairing and a small PE screen that goes in. All this done before gluing it in place.

It’s installed in the starboard half. There is a plastic tail rotor shaft that also goes in before closing it up. I’m not happy with the plastic and may turn a piece out of brass that should not break when you look at it. The vertical fit is excellent. The fore and aft fit looks a tad long, and I will shave it down when it’s fully cured.ng. This is the insde view of the starboard half.

And the exterior.

We’re heading out for a week trip Back East, so any work will have to wait until then. Happy modeling!


I follow your progress with special interest… (I have one in my stash)