They could use some micro-corrections, I am going to take a second pass tomorrow to correct mistakes.
The paint texture looks fine (except on some places where I can clearly see paint excess), I am really glad I finally managed to find a way to brush paint without streaking.
It really saves the bother of setting the airbrush up and I can work in the living room without eye protection and respirator.
I actually recommend painting the white cross marking by masking and airbrushing (or hand painting if you don’t have an airbrush). The white cross markings were actually factory painted on “Wasser” cans like that shown in the photo so would generally be well done, other then of course normal wear and tear. Fuel cans (new ones of course) were also used for water when necessary and these white markings would have been hand painted in the field.
It’s also interesting to see the “W” marking on the edge of the water can in Tamiya’s box art. It’s actually on the wrong side though - it should be on front edge (i.e. on the side below the pour spout). Water cans had this reverse stencil W mark (i.e. the white cross was masked so the W is in the base color of the can, gray or yellow) and another W in white also appear on the top of the can below the right opening through the handle. Again, these were factory applied markings.
Look at the jerry cans, this is the first time I spray German Grey, straight from the bottle with very little thinner, shaken AND stirred (lol).
Is it supposed to be so…green?
Damn, I feel so silly.
Bought that grey in bulk with other colors after asking which were the most common colors for WW2 tanks.
I suppose I will use this some day.
Will get the correct one, thank you.
As usual I need to buy stuff in bulk so I can save on delivery.
Can you suggest me some other useful Vallejo Air colors?
A Vallejo Air color that can replace the Tamiya Dark Iron.
It’s a very useful color, I use it for tank tracks and various dark metal bits, but I really would like to get the Vallejo Air equivalent.
RLM 66 is a Luftwaffe color, with RLM being Air Force specific colors. All the other German armed services used paints to RAL standards. RAL 7021 was the specification for the gray used on Panzers.
According to one person who served in the Soviet army.
Soviet army vehicles were painted like this: a barrel of paint was brought from the warehouse, then a soldier stirred the paint with a stick to an acceptable state, and then the vehicle was painted by several soldiers using ordinary paint brushes. So officially the color was 4BO, but the shade of the paint could depend on, for example, the paint was old or new, or how long the soldier stirred it.
(In factories, vehicles was painted with better quality, using normal tools and more or less fresh paint.)
P.S. Sorry my english.
I can’t say for sure, I always mix my own paints for painting tracks. But I think AK711 will be more suitable, I also advise you to pay attention to paints from AMMO MIG they have A.MIG-035 Dark Tracks 035 and A.MIG-034 Rust tracks. but i have never used them before.
Placed the order, got that burnt umber, another Tamiya Dark Iron, the Russian 4BO, the Panzer Grey and I also throw that dunkelgelb yellow that might be useful in the future,plus a couple of pigments I wanted.
Tamiya Dark Iron really looks irreplaceable, it can be used for so much stuff…
I just have trouble brush painting it, it’s either too fluid or too thick, never managed to strike the right balance.
Also, I hate those containers, they are so wasteful and impractical. Once I forgot to clean the lid and it took pliers to get it open.
I think that making a coat of dark iron and then a very light coat of burnt umber will make a good track color.
That should work very well. You can also mix up your own version of “Dark Iron” if you need to. Using your favorite brand of paint, you mix some flat black with a metallic color (silver, steel, metallic grey, etc.) with a little bit of a dark brown (burnt umber is good), adjust the mix to what you think looks right, and thats it! Thats what we did before colors like “Dark Iron” were invented.
Ken
I have never worked with tamiya paints, but once I bought paints from the AK company of the real colors series and ran into the same problems. as I later learned, these paints are not particularly suitable for brush application. I think the point is that these paints are based on isopropyl alcohol, and therefore not all acrylic thinners are compatible with them, although I once diluted such a paint with 96% alcohol and was able to apply it with a brush.
But I repeat, I have never worked with tamiya paints.
