The Great War - 2023 - multi-genre

Hi Everyone,

The builds in this campaign have certainly shown extensive verity of subjects. It’s very nice to see! thank you all.

In my last update, I showed that the brown/black base. Mr Surfacer 1000 Mahogany deliverers. It’s good stuff.

I opted to use Mr. Color 45 (Sail Color) for most of the undersides, this seems to be a good representation of “doped” canvas. The undercarriage area was painted white. I also picked up some washi tape (think Tamiya tape) that has a 30 mm width, to draw out the five color French camouflage.

Then the painting commenced.

There were a lot of errors.

Personally, I like to free hand camo jobs. Unfortunately, with World War I planes they were brush painted, same for a few other birds. So, as a modeler, you’ve got to mask. I’ll say that this project has certainly depleted the inventory. The end result was fair.

I have found that older kits, while they hold up, the decals don’t. I really wanted Eddie Rickenbacker’s mount. The decals in this kit are 30 years old, my back-up are 20. Given that, I tried out the old decals. I was pleasantly surprised. Using warm water and time they lifted off the carrier film, and then it was a placement issue. When I say lifted, I’ll admit I used a 3/0 brush to coax them off, and it took about an hour. The results were as expected, poor. However, patience does preserver

Unfortunately, I got the red wrong. Time to match colors! I Removed the insignia red color and matched it to the decals (sort of). Not easy.

With the decal process completed, some touch up paint was added, it went fairly ok.

Next up will be the rigging, the reason for this build! Till next time please be safe, wash your hands, and have fun!

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Paul, I will make sure to share the paints I am using - and the results.

If there is a good primer I find brush painting still works very well. Especially with many colors for the camouflage.
If a lot of colors are airbrushed, the airbrushed paint will sometimes build up at the edges of the masking and require fine sanding afterwards.

Some progress on the camouflage. I have used a mix of AK-Interactive and Meng paints.

Very thin paints so two-three coats are necessary. However, since the paints are so thin, they dry incredible fast. This means once you are done with one camouflage color, you can immediately start the second coat as the first part of the pattern is dry.

Quite satisfied with the camouflage, although I made the edges more smooth than in the instructions.

More to follow :slightly_smiling_face:

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Okay, had some time to get started on my Takom Mark 1 Tank. Adding the rollers was a pain, but in the end not the disaster I had expected.

This will be an OOB build, even though I recall that there are quite a few flaws in the kit.


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Last night’s extra work:




I got a little excited and glued the sponsons on… forgetting the steering mechanism needs to go in first. Hopefully I can still finangle that now.

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How are people doing? Anyone think they’ll need a little extra time?

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Maybe…have some holiday I might be able to work on it. Hard to say right now.

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I failed to start, so maybe next time?

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Almost there on the build. I managed to get the frame for the steering apparatus into place. It needed some ‘tricky to get to’ filler on the join between the upper and lower halves. Perfect Plastic Putty pressed in with some Evergreen profile, then smoothed out using the profile as a plate knife helped a lot. I also filled the gaps in the ‘command module’ at the front top and rear top. These are bevel joins in the kit, but the frame should be one piece so no join at all.

I am not sure about the armour around the steering apparatus’s raising mechanism. I have not seen many pics that show it fitted, but I have added it anyway. It may be a later modification like the toothless idler that fits the kit’s ‘Gaza’ option, but not the earlier version. It needs the angle frame and interior bolts though, which I will add.


The kit’s 6 pounder guns have been replaced with Magic Model’s turned brass ones, which are the correct length and shape. Takom’s are too short and fat:

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Hi Everyone,

When I started off the year, one of my goals was to become more comfortable with biplanes. For me, and I’m sure with most other modelers, getting the top wings to align properly and the rigging are the most daunting. With two biplanes this year done, I believe that my comfort level has increased ten fold! I’m almost at the point of “Let’s dive in and have fun!”, almost. Having overcome the apprehension of wing alignment, for this build I wanted to focus on the rigging aspects. There’s many ways to rig, and for this one I chose using two methods. wire (think high E guitar string) and EZ-Line.

One thing I was not too keen of with the kit is DML’s use of PE for the inboard struts. These are sided, and care should be taken when laying things out. I’ve found that by dedicating the parts to the wing works very well for me. Getting the struts cleaned, painted and fitted, and then taping them to an index card labeled so that I don’t get confused later. The outboard struts were painted wood brown, and the metal was replicated using a silver Prisma pencil.

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The PE provided has nice little holes to accommodate the rigging, I felt it was a bit on the small side, so using a new #11 blade I opened them up. I then ran EZ-Line through the holes, securing with superglue to rig the inboard struts. This turned out to be quite easy, though the photo turned out to be a bit out of focus, though enough to get the idea across.

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At this point I needed to get the wings onto the inner cabanes and stay. My attempts with rubber bands turned out to either be too loose or too tight, so I opted for tape. Where I’m at, the humidity can really cause grief, as in the case of trying to use tape. Third time was the charm using some thin wire and twisting it to hold the wings in place and not crush the cabanes.

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The kit comes with PE that is attached to top and bottom of the outer struts to facilitate with the rigging. I found it a double edge sword, great for rigging, lousy for the fit and alignment of the wings. Additionally, the instructions would have you rig the wings and then add the top wing. Test fitting this turned into two days of frustration, with many times having to walk away from the bench and do something else to rest the eyes and vent the frustration. As things progressed test fitting got the wings aligned and using the PE guides, I was able to get the rigging done on the outboard struts using EZ-Line. It was also during this time that I decided for to attach the top wing. This entailed superglue on the bottom strut and then securing the top wing again with superglue. While it sounds nice and fun, it wasn’t, as there are twelve attachment points that have to be all aligned. Nevertheless, with patience and sudden offensive outbursts at the design engineers, things did come together and look pretty darned good. Rigging the outboard struts was a simple task compared to getting the thing aligned.

Getting the cross wires in place became a relatively easy process, since the kit instructions had the wire lengths laid out and were quite accurate. Placing the eight wires was straight forward and I only managed to mess one up being a little long (of course it was right up front). Despite the frustrations I was rewarded with a very nicely rigged SPAD.

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Following the rigging, the rest of the fiddly bits seemed to be anticlimactic, and things went together fine. I followed this up with some touch up painting.

So, I’m calling this one done. I’ve gained a lot of experience, and confidence with this build. I could have gone through the ordeal of trying to match and paint the places where the decals failed, but I figured it gives it a sort of antique look, so I left it as is. While not perfect, I give it a passing grade.

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Thanks to all that watched this little adventure and gave me encouragement! This was a fun campaign loaded with lots of interesting builds. Thanks again!

Till next time, be safe, wash your hands and have fun!!

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That’s really excellent!

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Fantastic result John. It looks great.

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Very nice, that is probably one of the worst scout types for rigging and you have done a lovely job. I’ve enjoyed this campaign as well, I didn’t expect to get Jackal finished but happy with my HP O/400

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Can I finish in two weeks???

Way back when I said I was doing a pair of Eduard Camels. I think I better focus on one to make it before YE. We’ll see. I have finished painting the underwings. I’m not entirely happy - I think I got carried away a little with the preshading, and had a little trouble masking the frame. The wings have a nice detail showing the stitching, but it makes it hard to get the tape down and you can see
where a few got a little bent. Will use a different strategy on top of the wings…

I also scratched a couple of pilots. I used 28mm wargaming figures as dollies and then put coats on them, and scarves. Milliput and I are starting to become somewhat friendly…


Will try to get some paint on them this weekend and keep working on the plane itself.

Two weeks? Hmmmmm.

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I am calling this one done. The 1/35 Hobbyboss Schneider tank. A beautiful kit with complex, but well working detailed tracks.

I went for the colorful uneven original camouflage and quite satisfied in recreating the roughly brush painted camouflage in scale.

Thanks for a great campaign!





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Looks great Jesper. :+1::+1:

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Great job Jesper, love the scheme, and the weathering looks great! With all of that mud are you going to do a base for it!

Cheers, D

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Gives a great impression of the Schneider, a type I hadn’t looked at before. Love the camo and mud

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Really great! Kinda makes me want to do a WW1 tank…

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So, how do folks feel about doing a Great War - 2024 - multi-genre thing again next year? I was thinking also of starting just a biplane campaign, which would be a biplane from any era, but I really enjoyed seeing the early armor. What do people here think?

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