Tips on masking complex surface

I am in the final stages of painting my Bt-7. I want to do this scheme

Which is commonly seen on tanks right at the start of Barbarossa


I only plan to the top cross as reference photos I’ve seen don’t show the side or rear stripes.

The challenge is there are a number of obstructions in the form of hinges, bolts, and periscopes that make this a challenging masking job.

I do understand the in field this was probably done by a guy who was a peasant a few months prior so may be rough. I am mostly trying to reduce overspray. I could free hand it but I don’t know if my skills are up to snuff!

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I used Tamiya masking tape for curves, it is a little elastic so conforms to the surface details a bit more.

Edit: I just see that is discontinued…

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I would go with hand painting it. I tried taping off the stripe on my Ukraine YPR- 765A1 a while ago and after about half of it, I abandoned it and went with hand painting the stripe. I couldn’t get the tape to conform around bumps and protrusions and ended up covering up more overspray than if I had just started with a hand painted stripe. The original stripes would most likely have been hand painted with a brush anyways, so it looks better and more realistic in the end.

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I found a set of Microscale decals for white parallel stripes in my collection. With a gentle amount of mark softener, it should work. The packing say " Better than masking"

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Masking putty is your friend.

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You can get a more realistic hand-painted look if you add small amounts of edge waviness after making the initial lines razor sharp and straight. Even a wavy line looks nearly perfect at scale so it’s better looking to start straight.

A roof-only cross is far and away the most common but there are a few photos with stripes on the turret sides:

If you wanted to be a little different there are photos where the cross has crept off the roof for a few inches:

KL

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Neat pictures!! Thanks!

@KurtLaughlin and @HeavyArty I think hand painting is the way to go! I wanted to spray it so I could use chipping fluid to stress it, but I can always handle that in weathering phase with some oils!

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Why cannot you use chipping fluid with hand painting? I would practice on a sheet of styrene but I see no reason why it wouldn’t work.

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My understanding is with something like Vallejo the water in you use for thinning will activate the chipping fluid while painting. I could be wrong though! Testing on a sheet of styrene is a good idea

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Because of Vallejo paint properties, it’s not a good chipping paint from my experience. I would use Tamiya paint but use this method to paint.

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Hmm good point. May need to think on this. Brush painting tamiya is a pain I’ve always found

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I would agree. That video shows a different way that works.

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I don’t have any retarder and don’t have a need for it often since I usually use Vallejo.

Hmm, either I don’t worry about chipping, the photos @KurtLaughlin posted suggest there wasn’t much anyway, or I trying masking with putty and spray. I may go the Vallejo route as spraying will be a pain

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My other thought was to put the chipping down, paint the top white, then use the putty to cover where you want it to stay white and respray the green.

Look forward to seeing how it turns out with whatever process you choose.

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This is a good idea! Could brush paint the Vallejo. Seal it, then do a light coat spotty coat of green in small areas and chip that.

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