Interesting choice of glue (ethyl acetate) to join the fuselage halves: what was your motivation for this choice? For my own, I would have used a thin styrene after taping the 2 halves together
Your display looks a lot like mine: it’s the only safe place I have got to store components before assembly, without the kids getting hold of them
Things looking good now, with primer going on
Will be interesting to see when all assembled and finish colours applied
Why ethyl acetate? That’s easy to answer. Ethyl Acetate is as thin as water and due to its capillarity it crawls in everywhere and works like cyanoacrylate glue. It glues the parts together within seconds and - opposite to CA Glue - it also welds the plastic parts together. I often use it when I have difficult or long parts, like here. Both my Venturas were glued together the same way or the Do 215 or the Blenheim or the MiG 21 or the … It’s an old secret from my club so please don’t tell anybody … You might also check it out. Your pharmacy around the corner should have it.
Didn’t know Ethyl Acetate was a secret ! I’ve been using it exclusively for 25 years, I do decant if from the 1 litre chemistry-style brown glass bottle into an old “Tenax” bottle so no one will notice though!
Magnus, who told you our secret? There must be a leak, a mole, in our club! I have a 250ml brown bottle for years now and it’s still half full (not half empty - think positive!).
I’m still masking the 219. But there’s land insight, fuselage and one wing are done. So I hope to carry on painting soon.
Interesting comments regarding the ethyl acetate guys… I’d have never known until you mentioned it, but now your secrets out
For my own part I’ve always just taped fuselage halves together then used thin poly cement and dabbed it on the seam allowing capillary action to do the work
@BlackWidow We’ll figure that one out and force him/her to spend the rest of their lives assembling Contrail vacforms using tube glue…
@Russelle Ethyl Acetate works exactly the same. Note, I am neither a doctor nor a chemist but I have been told that it is a rather harmless solvent, there are many others that can be used (MEK, Acetone, Trichloretylene (!) ) but this is supposed to go easier on your brain (and be less cancerogenous and maybe even Covid-safe but please don’t quote me on that last one…)! Pricing could also be a part of it with a price of around 10 Euros / litre, a bottle lasting for a decade or two !
Just a short update today. After about a week I have finished masking the black underside. Have found a few spots to go over again which interrupted masking 2 times…
Russell, you’re familiar with MEK? Oh, you must be a bad guy then …
MEK stands for “Mobiles Einsatz Kommando” in Germany, a special police sqad here. You know, these guys who never use the door bell, they just enter - and ask for a cup of coffee …
… though there’s a little overspray, which can’t be prevented, I’m really happy with the result Have used Gunze H 69 (RLM 75) for the blotches which are slightly bigger than in the paint instruction but I don’t mind …
I’m really happy how everything came out and the “Uhu” is slowly coming together now. Later I will demask the wings first to see if there are touch ups to do (and how many …). Stay tuned!
Beautiful work there Torsten, great result! As you said, unless masks were used, there will be natural variation in the mottling. It looks much more interesting as well, non-uniform and random.
The camo looks good for me, as I mentioned. In 2010 I have build a Ki-45 Toryu and went the other way from dark to light colours. First IJA Dark Green all over the upperside and covered the blotches with Maskol (Color Stop from Revell), then sprayed IJA Grey Green over it. So I got sharp edges and I think it took me a week to get the Maskol off again with tweezer and tooth pick…
Hahaha! You guys think of Magnus’ dolphin, right? Okay, I try to switch this creature from a whale into an eagle owl somehow then … The next update will take a few days.