Hi, I have been wanting to improve my modeling skills this past couple of months. I model all military genres. I have been wanting to also learn more about scratch building. Can anyone give me tips and tricks on this stuff?
Jack
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That is a very LARGE question …
People write books about it …
I think it is better if you ask about specific areas when you encounter them.
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Jack, what do you like to build?
While a lot of skills transfer, there’s also a lot of niche specifics.
Buying quality tools instead of kits really helps when first starting. Getting an excellent pair of flush cut nippers would be near the top of my priorities.
Zoukei-Mura Pro-Zetzu Precision Nipper
DSPIAE
God-Hand
PIT
Come to mind.
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Hi Jack, this thread below might be a good place to start:
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For scratchbuilding, this is the only specific book I am aware of:
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I have this book and it is called “More-Scratchbuilding Masterclass”, because it has a prequell-“Scratchbuilding Masterclass”,which I also do have:
Both books are highly recommended,
Cheers,
Angel
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My suggestion for a beginner - build only Tamiya kits, Out Of Box only, until you can build and paint an excellent model. Then and only then buy a PE set and metal barrel for your next kit. Then buy a PE set, a metal barrel, and individual track set for your next kit. When you get good at making those, you can expand your horizons. Really, you can practice scratchbuilding this whole time. Try replicating kit parts and PRACTICE. Even us old timers have to make 5 parts to get 2 the same. The only way you get good at scratchbuilding is to do it a lot.
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Second Tamiya kits, not just beginning modeling but also beginning scratchbuilding as the older kits are a great canvas for replacing parts filling in sponsons, motor holes etc and the price point can be low on the second hand market.
Another great book to get is Shep Paines - Modeling Tanks and Military Vehicles.
Another good technique is to just google builds of a specific kit. For example the Tamiya M48A3 by Paul
Budzik.
I would pick one or two fixes that interest you and try them. This helps to build confidence to try other techniques. No need to try them all.
Besides reviewing modelers here another modeler to review.
More direct questions about a kit or technique are easier to answer.
HTH
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As an exercise, I’d suggest that you challenge yourself to build a styrene cube made from, say, .030" thick sheet. Make it perfectly square (i.e. 90* on all sides and corners) and exactly the same dimensions on all sides (L x W x H).
The exact size doesn’t matter. What you’re looking to learn is how to cut the styrene. How to layout the dimensions to make allowance for the thickness of the various parts and how to assemble and finish the joints (to be tight and sharp).
Don’t cheat and build the cube, file and sand it square and then measure it afterwards. Once you can make a simple cube that comes out the exact size that you want, you’ll have the mastered the fundamental skills needed for most scratch-building work.
After that, the challenge is planning out how the sequence and process to make more complicated shapes. Most scratch-building is done by making a number of basic shapes, assembling them into complex shapes and then detailing.
After the basic modeling skills, probably the most difficult thing is the research and planning. You have to understand the physical nature and characteristics in detail
before you can replicate them. Finding the information that you need or “reverse engineering” those answers from the context of surrounding details is a challenge, in and of itself. You’ll likely spend more on books and other research materials than you will ever spend on tools and materials. You can also spend more time doing the research than actually making the model (or model parts).
The bottom line is that there are actually no secret or “advanced” modeling techniques used to scratch-build. The skills are basic ones that most modelers acquire fairly early in their model making experience. Scratch-building is really just applying those basic skills and tasks over and over until the desired outcome is achieved. If you can clearly visualize what you want (which may require, as noted, some detailed research to build up that picture accurately and completely) scratch-building is more about patience and endurance than anything else.
Here’s an example of a Churchill tank gearbox (which went into the back end of an AFV Club kit). I chose to laminate the styrene to build up the basic shapes, but there are other ways this could have been done.
The finished Churchill tank gearbox installed in the AFV Club kit.
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The correct Answer is 42 
Well as you are not saying, what you prefer or what you like to improve.
There are two types of approaches.
FIRST: Build oob so long as you are really satisfied with the results, then start with Conversion Kits, than with scratch building.
SECOND: Choose a topic, you really really want to build. Collect as much Informations and pictures as possible and start building. And keep the pace up.
There are many Tipps and Tricks, but you need to find out what fits you best.
There is nothing impossible, to handle, if you really like to built it.
The Rabbits
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You have discovered my secret. I never attempt to build anything to the exact dimension to start. Most parts are slightly oversized and then sanded/trimmed to final size.
You should know the mantra better than most: If you ain’t cheatin; you ain’t tryin’.
Excellent gearbox, by the way.
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LOL! The suggestion was only intended to be something for learning and practice!
To paraphrase Det. Harry Callahan, “A modeler’s gotta know his limitations…”
You need to try to scratch-build an object to very precise dimensions at least once before you can appreciate just how hard that really is (and why learning some work arounds is really valuable!).
Cheers on the gearbox props!
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Yep… I did not mention it because it is out of print and, as far as I know, quite difficult to get 
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I build Armor in 1/16 and 1/35 scales and planes in 1/48 and 1/32 scales.
I will find and buy those nippers you recommended.
Jack
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So right now, I am building Andys M4a3e8 late WW2/ Korean war Sherman.
I this anything on that that I can improve on.
Jack
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This is what I have for my modeling tools and paints, please recommend anything I don’t have or need.
Jack
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Everyone’s needs are different. That may very well be all you need to accomplish your goals. The wooden clothes pins - I haven’t uesed them in decades, but found myself using them last week on my C-46. Who even knew trhey were still in the house? (nearly everyone has that drawer - you know - old AAA batteries, rubber bands, post it notes, clothes pins…)
No matter which genre you model, you may one day test out the waters with PE - a Hold and Fold is invaluable for this. You can even use it to make your own parts from brass shim stock, which itself is another good thing to have on hand.
Personally, I find I use my Dremel with either a rotary saw or a steel cutter almost every modeling day. And a pin vise with a nice assortment of micro drill bits.
An airbrush is not an absolute necessity, but they sure come in handy. They don’t have to be top of the line either - I started with one that used a spare tire as an air source.
Like any other hobby, you just need to decide what it is you want. Shooting for example. Hmmm…
Speed? Accuracy? Both? Neither, I just want to convert perfectly good bullets into loud noise at the range? You’ll find all of that right here. 
You’d fit right in on AR15.com by the way - you’ve already got the obligatory feet in the photo technique down. At least your socks match.
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Maybe a set of fine grade needle files.
Needle files + nippers make it easy to clean up the injection gates.
No need to destroy sharp scalpel blades by mistreating them with the
rough work of cleaning sprue gates and mold flash.
Saved me lots of money and fingertips …
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Upon further review, I notice the pin vice. And a roach clip - always good for modeling. First down!
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Speaking of model building tools, if there’s a Harbor Freight near you, for $7 these are fairly decent small drill bits. They can be held in hand or with larger pin vise etc.
There’s a lot of useful information in the various build threads on the forum regarding tools, tips & techniques.
Example some types return rollers can be mounted in pin vise to help remove mold seams with sanding stick
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