That’s some kick-ass metal work right there.
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Started doing the filter washing. I still dont get the results I would hope I get versus dry brushing pigments straight to the paint.
I did the bottom half and just some of the hinges on the top. My filter is going on to thick and ruining the finish that looked better left alone.
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Don’t give up. I’m certainly no expert but, just keep working on the filter with whatever it’s supposed to be thinned with until you get the results you want.
When I use an AK oil based filter/wash, I just keep brushing on it with straight AK white spirits until I’ve gotten the result I want by removing the excess color around the details and wiping the brush on a blue paper shop towel as I go, if that makes any sense.
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Exactly what Al just said. You are not a victim to commercial washes and filters; they don’t have to ruin your masterpiece. I use Turpenoid for all of my enamel and oil work. You can thin down a wash/filter so that it is almost transparent. This gives you the ability to build up the effect with several applications, which is what you want. I’m usually happy with a wash on application 3 or 4. Likewise, if you apply a wash/filter and it’s too heavy and is going to ruin your model, you can flood the model with Turpenoid and clear away the wash/filter. You don’t have to settle for what comes out of the bottle, you can take control with dilution and get the results you expect.
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Got a coating of stone texture paint on the base for my KET-T before running off to babysit the grandsons. Will cover the surface with AK Interactive asphalt.
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Shutting down the workshop for a couple of days. Leaving tomorrow for IPMS Richmond show. Today paper work and packing up kits for the show. Reopen Sunday.
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I’m trying to fix the issues of the Jackal kit from Hobbyboss.
One of them is a missing thermal cover on the rear hard box. I was thinking to build it with a thin styrene base first, because of few cut off sections around handles and then cover it with “plastiroc” paste to make the thickness.
Not sure about the result but I will try.
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Went to a club build meeting last night, normal 2 hrs went for 4 hrs and didn’t get a chance to build anything. Lots of plastic talk and helping folks fill out Richmond contest paperwork. Also helped worked on our club website.
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Was away from bench yesterday but had time today.
Hope to visit Gaston County Model Builder’s model club meeting tomorrow night…
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My arm was twisted and I was dragged to Hobby Lobby earlier this week. I was looking for a small vehicle base idea and found this tree plank. I cut it in half and used some dark stain on it. For size reference it is the Tamiya 1/35 R35.
Forgot where I got the grass sheet but I am thinking about trimming it down and gluing it down. Some light weathering and done…maybe.
Already thinking about adding some relief so it not so flat and add a little more interest.
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Great find Ryan it looks fantastic. At least it kept you out of the beading section!
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Yes! We all love the Hobby Lobby beading section! 
so much useful little stuff
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Styrofoam blocks, plaster, and a wooden base provided a big “moon rock” for the Hasegawa 1/20 scale Camel LUM-165. I wanted to add some height to the display. The inspiration was photo of Astronaut Harrison Schmitt working next to Tracy’s Rock in the Taurus–Littrow valley on the Apollo 17 mission in 1972. The South massif is visible to the right.
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Impressive! Excellent display.
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Scratch built the cockpit forward panels on my Fine Molds X-Wing, and whilst at it, started on the stowage boxes on my ‘ABTF’ Humber:
The still from ABTF I am using here:
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