Hadn’t thought of No More Nails - it’d give quite a few minutes of working time, if you can get it thin enough not to be lumpy under the Zimm. I’ve been advised to use 5-minute epoxy, which gives a few minutes of wiggle-room before it sets, but haven’t actually tried it yet.
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Glueing the zimm-sheet to a thin sheet of styrene could be another option.
No panic with locating the zimm on the plasticard, just trim the edges afterwards.
The next step is to glue styrene to styren using solvent or some extra super duper thin glue
which does not contain lumps and will get drawn in by capillary action
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That’s looking really good. I have a Panther G ( Tamiya) that I’m getting ready to build. Hope I do as good of a job on it as you’re doing with your current project.
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Some work on the Tempo E400 from MiniArt this week …
More photos can be seen my build blog in the Automodellers Forum.
Torsten 
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5 minute Epoxy as Tom says. If you have an old modelling saw blade hanging around, spread the epoxy on as thin as you can, then use the saw blade like a tiler does with floor tiles, scraping along to remove excess and make little valleys. When you lay the part on, it will allow you to press down and the epoxy will fill the valleys and make it thinner without oozing out. After it is all set, run a little cyano along the join to blend the attack to the kit part.
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@petbat okay dont mean to be a pain here. But can you think of a good link from this or the past site with someone really going into doing Zimm and explaining the do’s/dont’s for dummies?
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That seems to be a good idea, but I will try with the " no more nails" stuff this time, it looked very easy and fast. But your way is in my mind, I’m sure to try it this way too
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Whatever method you choose, test it out first on a junk model! Best not to experiment on a good kit…
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@Dagger1959 Dennis, I’m sure you’ll do fantastic on your Tamiya Panther G!
Thank you for the kind comments 
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Thanks. I’m hoping so. Your quiet welcome.
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PANDA 35035 SdKfz 135/1 15cm sFH 13/1 (Sf) auf GW Lr.s.(f)
PANDA 35006 SdKfz 135 7.5cm PaK 40/1 auf GW Lrs(f) Marder I
REVELL 2149 1970 Mustang Boss 429
I have to finish the tracks for the 10.5cm leFH18/4 and dust it up and finally all three Panda kits will be done for the time being.
I finish most all of my armor to ‘kit completed’ status so I am still free to apply appropriate weathering later when I decide on a base for each. Weathering will be minimal; basically ‘restored to running condition by the museum’ state is what I shoot for.
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Sorry Kelly, I have been making my own or using Cavalier resin zim for longer than most sites have existed!
It is a matter of finding what works for you.
I use Tamiya polyester putty and their Zim tool myself:
Or a home made waffle pattern stamp.
I use epoxy and the old saw blade for the resin zim.
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Does italeri have a medical variant? I’ve been keeping an eye out for these (I’ll have to get a 1:48 Willys MB too) for a MASH diorama.
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No stretchers or shields in this kit, just machine guns.
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For a real MASH diorama or for
a TV-series MASH diorama?
The TV MASH helicopter was a Bell 47-D
The Original M*A*S*H Bell 47 Helicopter Is For Sale it was for sale back in 2020
There used to be this kit:
Maybe it can still be found somewhere …
Edit: Ebay, one in Portugal, one in UK one in the US of A
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The type used in Korea was the OH-13D / Bell 47D. The Academy 1/35 kit is correct for a Korean War era Bell 47 and a MASH TV series version.
I don’t know of an OH-13D in 1/48.
The 1/48 Italeri and 1/35 Revell versions are the later OH-13H / Bell 47H that was used in Vietnam as an early armed gunship.
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TV series one. My limited research told me that the show used an H-13 Sioux, but is there a substantial difference between H-13 and 47D?
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An H-13 is a Bell 47. The issue is how accurate do you want to be. The TV show used a Korean war accurate Bell 47D. The available 1/48 kits are the later Bell 47H. The biggest difference is the H model has one-piece curved landing gear and dual fuel tanks. The older D model had squared off multi-piece landing gear and one large fuel tank.
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