Two beautiful 190s nice work, thanks for posting.
Watto 
2 Likes
Attempted my first camo paint job I used some precut masks I bought from ebay they were meant for doing paint jobs on hand guns. But they seem to be the right scale for 1/35 give or take a millimeter. The black section on the roof needs a little extra but I’ll free hand that.
13 Likes
The famous Noddy Car.
2 Likes
Couple of pics of the 600 gallon bladders I’ll be putting (two of) on the M548A1.
More realistic than the factory-produced versions IMO.
9 Likes
I was looking through my collection of slot cars and one screamed out for help. Years ago I bought my first 24th scale slotcar.
It was a Manthey Porsche 997. It was raced hard as I learned the ropes of 1/24 racing.
After about a year of racing I bought other cars, but this was the first 1/24th. As I looked it over the damage over time became evident. The windshield and the back window were cracked. The passenger side window was cracked. The hood had a crack running from the windshield to the fuel filler opening. The rear body was cracked from the rear taillight to the bottom of the bumper. The wing was broken on the right side post. The paint had some damage from the tire cleaner we used.
So this would take a bit of work to recover. I spent an afternoon disassembling the body. Originally it was assembled by melting the plastic posts that went through holes in the mating part. I then put 91% alcohol in a gallon Ziplock bag with all the parts inside. This released the paint and some work with a toothbrush finished the job.
Next was repairing all the crash damage. I started with the crack in the rear window. I cut a 1/4 by 1/2 inch piece of styrene and used a good bit of Tamiya extra thin. The patch was put on the inside of the window and ran the length of the crack. Worked out great, nice and solid. I then sanded the outside of the window smooth and all was good. Next was the windshield. I could not patch the entire crack because it would be seen. I took a piece of sprue and sanded one side flat I then glued it on the windshield spanning the crack behind the Gran Turismo label and called that fixed. Next I tried the same type patch on the crack in the hood. However the plastic the body is made from does not melt with Tamiya extra thin. The sprue patch just fell off when the glue dried. So I tried again using Shoe Goo glue. This dries like rubber and holds well to anything and will remain flexible when dry. I used this method in repairing the crack in the rear of the body. Both crack repairs were strong with the sprue braces. The passenger window could not be repaired with out becoming ugly.
Next came the painting. As my eyes get older, I need to use easy to see cars, not some color that is close to the tracks color. That was the reason I chose that livery when I first bought the car. Being a Pheonix that is rising from the fire, I chose to use the Jägermeister livery. I had a set of decals from Revells Jägermeister 934 Porsche. However this is a 997 Porsche, but the decals fit the body panels with few changes. I used Tamiya’s white primer followed up with two coats of Tamiya pure orange and decaled the body. I followed that up by three coats of Tamiya clear over the decals. The front headlights were clear yellow plastic. However because one had broken out I would have to glue it back in. I painted the inside of the head light silver and Shoe Gooed then in. The taillights had the same issue so I painted the outside red and silver then Shoe Gooed them in. The rear window had to be painted to hide the repair so I painted it black. The rear wing was next. I had to enlarge the slot the wing fit in so I could push the wing posts further down past the broken section. Again Shoe Goo. Now you can see the final product. Not perfect but because it will be raced again, perfect was not required.
Zoom Zoom!
25 Likes
Not really yesterday, but all of last week…Been working on the trailer, added the axles..
Than started on the swansneck… slightly warped parts… 
Used white plastic, some filler, cut up original parts to get it a bit back in form…
Looks ok for a campsite repair job 
Added more details and fitted it to the trailer..
And got one of the ramps on…
24 Likes
Wow, what happend to the Sprue?
Rabbit
2 Likes
That’s how it came out of the box… I guess that was why I could buy this kit cheap second hand 
2 Likes
Hey Bert, I’ve bought 4 s/h kits over the years, all claimed to be complete. 2 of the 4 had parts missing and in one case, a partly-assembled* sub component.
- Badly.
It’s a crap shoot.
2 Likes
Your repair work paid off! looks good as new! so odes the metal work - wow!
Nick 
4 Likes
I’m working on the Hobbyboss Bergepanzer 3A1. The driver’s compartment is finished, although it’s not very visible. At the beginning of the project, I wanted to make a Canadian model used in Afghanistan, but after some research, there are many differences between the Canadian and German versions. The Canadian version would have had to be a completely different model, given the number of differences. I’m not 100% decided on the paint scheme, but I think I’ll go with the German version, which is much closer to the original.
18 Likes
Rookie builder here, reporting in with another Ju 88A-4 update. 
The hard edge surrounding the greenhouse has been sanded smooth and re-primed. Some remaining seams were attended to as well.
With that out of the way, I moved along to the exhaust stacks, engines, and nacelles.
The exhaust stacks were painted and weathered a while back. Today, it was time to attach them to their respective engines. I used 'VMS Flexy 5K Black (CM10-BK) and quickly dry-fit the sub-assemblies into the nacelles before the CA cured. Though a bit tricky, I was happy that my previous alignment efforts had paid off.
Now was a good opportunity to once again dry-fit the nacelle assemblies to the wings.
Why I dry-fit…
Things got ugly from the start. Where did the huge gaps come from while fitting the “port” nacelle to the “starboard” wing? … Did ya’ll get that? In addition, I forgot to remove the masking plugs from the wing tops. Nothing was fitting and it became all too clear that the landing gear paint masks had to go as well. … Hope I don’t forget to re-mask them after nacelle to wing assembly.
A quick look at the port-side engine…
And here we have the nacelle sub-assemblies dry-fit to the wings (correctly). … Note to future self: Little red dot is for starboard. Little black dot is for port.
To be continued…
Thank for having a look!
—mike
23 Likes
4 Likes
Yeah right Mike, Bert’s already rumbled you. For newbies benefit, I’ve known this “rookie” for nearly 10 years and I still remember a self-portrait he posted early on, fully masked like Darth – clearly embarrassed by his devastating good looks, as we all should be. If he couldn’t tell his left from his right just then that’s just a measure of the guy, he’s thinking way higher than that
5 Likes
Finished the Steyr 1500 or actually just attached the figures to the base. The figures could use some improving but I haven’t done more than a few dozen in the last decade so I think they’re all right for what they are; at least the female didn’t come out looking clownish. All hand-painted except for the use of Tamiya insignia decals. First time using AK’s concrete paste and I liked working with it. Paints used were a mix of AK Real Colors, Tamiya, and Vallejo acrylics.
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23 Likes