First a little saw bones surgery…
…then applied Cavalier Zimmerit to lower & upper hull…
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@Naseby Jacob, your Dragon Pz III N is looking great! Love the Osketten!
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Not been at my bench for weeks( other commitments)
Managed some more on this second wessex ,
A little bit of Interior pipework and closed up body
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Working on the M5 Power Unit from Plus Models.
It has to light up the Clubmobile.
And a little work on a base for a shelf queen
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I like the Winter-tracks too, there is the 1/16 Panzer III from Das Werk and they have a set of winter-tracks too
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Turret zimmerit, clean up edges and added part of interior.
The ancient Jaguar interior is excellent quality resin overall in my opinion. I think it will be OK with touch ups when viewed through a hatch…
Fighting with only one pull out defect so far.
Needs to look closer to this one.
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Found a certain (ahem) issue below deck…
These sub-floor protrusions must go… so says Herr Chief Engineer. 
Das Dremel grinding wheel und sproo-nippers made quick work of a potential clearance issue. 
… what remains of the Bomb Room ceiling. The Loader can breathe-easily again.
… and more added to the heap of scraps to jettison before the ship can lift off.
—mike …
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Today, Cavalier Zimmerit, Jaguar interior, Jordi Rubio main gun all going together into a Tamiya kit. Felt nervous four products from back in the day won’t play nice together.
Jaguar main gun breech fit OK with Tamiya & Cavalier!
Jordi Rubio aluminum gun barrel fit Cavalier & Tamiya parts well.
However, Jordi doesn’t play nice with Jaguar. Play ground dispute.
Jaguar resin (blue arrow) hit Jordi gun barrel pin (red arrow).
(SNIP!)
…and that’s been the only surprise so far!
Favorable impression of the 30 year old kit and it’s ancient aftermarket parts.
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I’ve seen that one on youtube! Are there any AU/welded hull Grant model kits out there?
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Does this happen even with proper track tension?
That Leo 2 (Strv 122) I saw was well maintained and had proper track tension.
One of all the differences between the Leo 2 and that Panther is the design of the tracks.
The Leo has “live tracks”, read all about tracks here:
A live track will try to curl up at the ends and it will want to follow the sprocket instead of getting stretched straight to go to the nearest road wheel.
A dead track, as on the Panther has some other reason for not wanting to leave the sprocket. Maybe something to do with the geometries of the track vs the sprocket teeth, maybe there was some rust and dirt in the “hinges” so that when the sprocket had forced the track into a tight circle it did not want to move back into the straight position.
When driving forward there is no tension on the track between the sprocket and the first road wheel. There is a lot of tension from the last road wheel around the idler and forward to the sprocket though.
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Got it, an interesting detail to note.
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Just make sure you have photos to prove it if you take the model to a contest …
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Indeed. I don’t plan on doing any modern armor anytime soon, so I think I’m fine. It’s always nice to notice details like this, though!
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Finished the 155mm M198 howitzer (02306 Trumpeter). I did worse than I could have done.
But I enjoyed the assembly and was amazed at the unusual technical solutions used. Well, I was surprised by the significant size of the model. The color is also unusual for me - not green. 
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No kit of the Grant on the M3A3 hull that I am aware of. You would need to kit bash.
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Probably shouldn’t be hard to kitbash. Maybe take an M3A2 hull and shave off the rivets, then modify a bit for the welded parts, then add the grenade mesh. Luckily, we have hours of video to use as reference!.
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Went up to Como to visit for family for lunch and passed by the model shop (Mantovani Modellismo) to pick up a bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin. I walked out with a box of figures and a plane…
I can finally get back to my StuG III! DO you guys have any suggestions for making sure that the arms on the figures go on correctly?
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