In some cases I use superglue to glue small resin parts to a thin shim of styrene.
When the glue has hardened I trim off the excess and then glue styrene to styrene.
This makes it easier to adjust the position. I haven’t tried this with PE, the shim would
probably add too much thickness.
For larger parts (which are easier to handle) I use epoxy-glue.
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I just finished a small bottle of Locktite Super Glue that I had been using for about a year and a half. In addition to Locktite Super Glue I’m trying DAP “RapidFuse”. It takes about 30 seconds to dry but has great bonding power.
Also, I wasn’t bashing all VMS products as I use their Top Coats which are very, very good. Just the Flexy didn’t work for me, maybe just got a bad bottle.
I plan on trying the Gorilla Super glue next.
Drip the glass parts in Future first. Vapors won’t matter.
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I have used BSI CA in the past and I had issues where the glue would dry up or got really gooey. Other cases a strange crystal growth would start to grow usually at the base of the bottle. I reached out to BSI and they mentioned that CA does have a shelf life and keeping it cold and dry helps extend the life. The one thing that BSI cautioned me about is resellers will order their supply of glue from them but there is no way to know how long it has been sitting on the shelf which is why some people their glue lasts awhile while others die out soon. Not sure if there is a ‘recommended’ list of resellers but just wanted to FYI everyone.
Cheers
@Denimo I buy the smallest or the bottle the same size as CA superglue because it spoils before I use it all.
I just use a toothpick and smear it onto the gluing surfaces to stick. I don’t do that “One drop and press” instructions. With superglue, I never use modeling glue ever since.
Sometimes I use Gorilla Glue to fill gaps, but putty is best for that. The “gap filler superglue” is over-hyped as it doesn’t really fill gaps at all unless it’s old and gooey superglue. I keep an old outdated bottle of Gorilla Glue for that purpose but note that the older the Gorilla Glue gets, the long strings of glue it will form…like working with taffy.
Gorilla Glue doesn’t spoil as fast or as bad as CA or ZAP superglue, and best of all, no crystallization. It’s the crystals forming in glued surfaces that eventually breaks the bonds years to decades later and your built kits fall apart using CA and ZAP superglues because these other superglues are gap fillers. You don’t want expansion of the superglue to fill where you joined—you just want the superglue to stick.
If you want gap-filling superglue, you can buy CA or ZAP…but I just use white putty and A&B epoxy putty for gaps.
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It appears there are many varieties (by numbers). Which one did you use exactly?
A little off topic and probably already tired of the questions, but one more. What varnishes did you use before VMS varnishes?
I still use them in addition to the VMS Top Coats… Testors Dullcote and Glosscote, AK Ultra Matte Varnish, Aqua Gloss, and Mr Color GX100 gloss and GX114 flat. I switch around depending on base coat I’m covering.
It’s just Loctite Super Glue Professional in a bubble pack card that I get at Lowe’s. It has a twist cap.
My wife and I both wear contacts and I have a 50 year supply of the little individual plastic wells that they are packaged in. I put 2 or 3 drops in a well and discard it when I’m finished.
It would be better to open a new topic on varnish instead of using this one.
I use Vallejo Premium and I am very satisfied with it.
I’ve created a little DIY Tool Topic. See link below:
Cheers!
—mike
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This is the 2nd time I have heard mention of Epoxy Glue being “stringy”. Maybe that is brand specific becuase i am not seeing that when mixing JB Weld Steel/Hardener Epoxy. This is the non clear stuff as the clear epoxies are definitely stringy. The stuff I use is white and black and forms a dark gray when mixed. No strings. Like i said above, I can almost use it as filler, doesn’t care if it gets wet, can be wiped off before it hardens, and it’s not coming apart once it’s set. TBH I am surpsied more people dont use it but if it’s cause they tried the clear product first then I understand why. I bought the clear version after i had already been using JB Weld Steel/Hardener and havent opened it since.