Thanks, where can i find it?
You can lightly sand the rear hatch with a very fine sandpaper (1200), clean the dust and paint again, it should look fine.
It is the #911 response in the Miniart campaign
I copied here one of the photos. But.if you scroll upwards to the earlier responses you might find other examples in that topic.
This is why I signed up to Armorama, too.
Overall sounds like excellent progress
I’d hit the waves with 1,200 grit as mentioned as mentioned by @varanusk Carlos.
Depending on how much paint remains a light drybrushing with the base color may work for touching up. If not repainting should do the trick.
I fear I might make it worse, I was thinking of just painting over it.
Or maybe just smear it with pigments and pass it as weathering…
Sometimes I just need to fire-up the airbrush and go for it. I’ll give the problem area a very light spray and let it dry. The result might just surprise you and turn out to be okay. … And of course, weathering is a viable solution. … Your choice.
I’ll try to give it another shot with the airbrush, cannot get any worse afterall.
About the tracks’ base color, I was thinking:
I have italeri gunmetal which essentially looks like polished steel. What if I add some black color, a drop or to and mix it? Will I end up with a good color?
While anything can pretty much work if one tinkers with it long enough Gunmetal/polished steel even darkened with black would not be my choice for track color. If you can add some red brown to that it may work really well.
I think one could probably mix something similar like:
1 part flat black.
1 part gun metal
2 parts red brown
If you have some red brown you can probably mix your own track color with the Revell colors mentioned.
Tamiya’s Dark Iron is very close to my pet favorite Floquil’s and an excellent starting point in my opinion. This is basically the color I’d aim for if mixing my own.
Unfortunately I still have trouble with delivery costs and shops being very far, but I’ll consider this color if I manage to get near the shop.
I really envy you guys just being able to make a short trip and buy what you need.
About the mix, why so much red brown? I have some rust color that might look similar…
Rust tone might work well…you could mix a few drops and see. If it’s an orange rust - no idea how that would work out.
Colors on models are ultimately are all in all a matter of personal taste. That’s critical to keep in mind.
Adding red-brown is basically giving some nice color tones for washes, drybrushing & pastels to work with and create a better illusion.
Regarding red-brown (or variations of it), just drawing on past experiences mixing approximately Floquil RailRoad Antique Bronze color for tracks. Other colors like medium brown could probably be used too etc.
My closest real hobby shop is like ~70 miles/~110 km away Pretty much all mail order these days.
Do not use any metallic colour for the base of tracks, it just simply is NOT in any way, realistic.
As a base, mix some Black and brown from any paint manufacturer of your choice to achieve a very dark brown colour. Use this as the base and then highlight grousers and track treads with a dry brush of oily steel or something like that.
Most of us havent been to a LHS for at least 18 months, for obvious reasons. And it doesn’t matter where you live, most people don’t have a LHS just ‘round the corner’…
But, we discovered the internet and online shopping?
Delivery costs, unless you make a huge bulk purchase, enjoy paying 7 € for a 2.50 € paint jar.
Maybe I found a good deal for a delivery at a decent price.
@Armor_Buff , I’ll take that dark iron, it looks very good. I got both italeri and vallejo thinners, do you think that I could use one of them? I’d hate having to buy another thinner just for this.
If not, I might buy the Italeri/Vallejo equivalent, if exists.
I could also buy some decal solution as this tank has very big and complex decals.
Basically, I would like something that helps me set the decals keeping them mobile. The decals on the ISU-152 stuck like crazy the instant they touched the model and I was very lucky to get them right at first attempt.I would like to avoid that. Also I would like something that doesn’t mess up the paint, obviously.
@Nightgaunt, everyone will have their own views on crisscrossing brands of acrylic paint and the various thinners.
Here’s my thinking with acrylic paints, I use the recommended thinner in almost all cases because quality paint is important to me and chemistry is different with various acrylic paints. Saving $6 by crisscrossing isn’t important to me given what’s at stake with a model.
I’m not up on all the nuances of what can be cross mixed with the half dozen or so brands of acrylic paints. With my preference of enamels and lacquers which I have a lot of experience with its a different story.
As for spraying the tracks, I just brush painted these in Tamiya Dark Iron. I did add a drop of Tamiya thinner to the paint palette for better flow.
Used a ~6mm flat rectangular red Sable brush.
Added various washes and dry brushing later etc.
Curios, do you do washes and dry brushing before or after attaching them?
Both Probably 80% was before attaching tracks and the other 20% was after doing tweaks and touchs up pin washes and dry brushing.
@Armor_Buff, you are right, the thinner is just another 2.50 €, no reason to be a cheapskate.
Since I need to make some bulk, what would be the best tamiya color for a Afrika Korps Panzer II, this one to be precise:
This is going to be my next purchase.
Also, about the uniforms, the color looks very similar, is it the same?
What about the flesh color?
Great work so far, I always liked the KV series tanks. I wish someone made an interior for the turret since it has that big hatch in the back.
My apologies this will be a long wordy post… hopefully it will contain information you will find of interest.
Last two questions first. My figure painting knowledge is basically at the novice level likewise with painting flesh tones. So I’ll differ to others on those topics. Here’s my thread asking basically similar questions. Best-starter-kit-guide-for-painting figures
First question, time-line tends to determine color selection for DAK really.
On first arrival one can probably do some Panzer Gray and very heavy dust etc.
I think this site nicely covers the color selection.
On 17 March 1941, Inspectorate 2 ordered that equipment in North Africa should be painted two-thirds yellow-brown (gelbbraun RAL 8000) and one-third gray-green (graugrün RAL 7008).
On 25 March 1942, Inspectorate 2 ordered that gelbbraun and graugrün were to be replaced by brown (braun RAL 8020) and gray (grau RAL 7027) once existing paint stocks were depleted, using the same pattern.
So we have a rough idea of what colors we’re talking about I’ve reposted @SSGToms Matt’s pic of the Tomas Chory’s color chips
that are in this fantastic reference book. Highly recommend.
As for Tamiya paints for DAK/Afrika Korps colors this thread has a plethora of information: DAK Paint Mixes Using Tamiya Colors
Personal Side Note & Comments
Given my pet favorite enamel Floquil Military Colors don’t provide the four key DAK colors:
gelbbraun RAL 8000
graugrün RAL 7008
braun RAL 8020
grau RAL 7027
I’m going to spray enamels or lacquers due to personal preference, so alternative had to be found.
Mr. Paint provides all four DAK colors by RAL number. These are acrylic lacquers already thinned and ready to spray. Mr Paint’s Panzer Grey is so exact a match its basically impossible to see their paint chip against and item painted in unfaded WW2 vintage Panzer Grey. Mr Paint seems to go out of the way to produce accurate paint colors unlike practically every other hobby paint provider.